New Polk SDA-2Bs: looking for Polk expert in Seattle area

135

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,653
    edited December 2012
    Seth, I'm going to suggest you do some of this yourself instead of asking everyone here to do it for you because it is much more rewarding that way. Google is your friend.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited December 2012
    There's no question you're right. It's just that as a modding "virgin", I'm not sure enough in my knowledge to even know whether my research is "on target". I don't know what i don't know, but i do know i don't want to screw up this project. I sincerely appreciate the help everyone is providing, and I hope, as I get some experience, I'll be able to give back. For now, it seems prudent to learn from those with mastery of the topic.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,653
    edited December 2012
    Yeah, I get that you're a modding "virgin", but looking for stuff like spikes and inserts you can do on your own.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited December 2012
    I took F1nut's advice and Googled (and finding some answers on my own was rewarding). I settled on some Cardas Audio CCGR S Binding Posts and Dynamat, which have been ordered. Trey offered up some spikes, and I was able to find the 1/4-20 threaded inserts online for 85 cents a piece - they're on the way. As soon as I have a final quote from Trey I will order the crossover goodies. This is more exciting than I thought it would be.

    I'd like some opinions from the experts on the benefit of upgrading the speakers' internal wiring. Also, I purchased an original blade-to-blade cable from Polk last week. Is there a material benefit in upgrading from there?

    Jake, please let me know when its convenient for us to get together. Thanks.

    Seth
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,653
    edited December 2012
    I'm proud of ya. :cool:
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    Don't do internal wiring right now; just my suggestion with everything else going on. You can screw up the internal wiring real easily if you don't keep it straight, and you'll be trying to keep plenty of things straight with the mods already. You can always do it later pretty easily.

    I have a set of eight, black speaker spikes with inserts. PM me if you are interested, and so we can set-up a date.
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited December 2012
    Jake, thanks for the advice. I think I'm set regarding spikes; Trey had a set that's on the way. I ordered the tweeters yesterday, but they won't ship until next week (Polk is doing inventory). I'll be in touch re: a date. You rock!
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited December 2012
    Parts are trickling in. I received the Dynamat last week, and came home to Trey's goodies and the Cardas binding posts today! Polk shipped the RD0-194 tweeters yesterday. Very exciting...
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited December 2012
    Jake, I just received the tweeters from Polk, so I think I have everything. I still can't PM you, but I'll share an email address I created for this project: modthosepolks(at)gmail.com. Please email me at your convenience. Thanks.

    Seth
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Well, I was able to meet with Zingo on Saturday night. He applied his magic incantations and alchemy to the parts provided by Trey, yielding aural gold! Zingo is a true gentleman as well as an electronics wizard. The six hours we spent together were heaven, and he was so generous with his time and knowledge I am still overwhelmed. I just finished Dynamating and applying Armacell, and I'm listening to Son of Schmilsson - heaven. Photos to follow. I am waiting for Hurricane nuts, and once I get those and the spikes installed the project will be complete. It would have been impossible without the great experts on this forum who share so willingly their time and expertise. What a grand experience!
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    BTW, if anyone would like the SL 2000 tweeters I replaced, you're welcome to them for the cost of shipping. They are mint.
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited January 2013
    check with tophatjohnny I think he needs some
    Moofy wrote: »
    BTW, if anyone would like the SL 2000 tweeters I replaced, you're welcome to them for the cost of shipping. They are mint.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited January 2013
    Congrats on your "new" speakers. Always great to hear positive experiences like this one!
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited January 2013
    Congrats - very nice help karma!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited January 2013
    Always willing to help, and congrats on the new speakers! :cheesygrin:

    BTW: We used Trey's parts for the crossover upgrade including the Speakon connectors for a new blade-blade SDA cable, and it is a fantastic packed with everything included. I highly recommend Trey's upgrade kits if you want a complete box of high quality parts for your crossover upgrade.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,747
    edited January 2013
    Thanks Jake for the kind words!

    I like the DIY kits, it is cool helping others explore the DIY world! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • wolfsongaudio
    wolfsongaudio Posts: 11
    edited January 2013
    I can use the SL 200 tweeters. My SDA 1C Studios have 3 wrinkled domes. I am going to try the hair dryer trick but am not sure it will work. Please let me know if the tweeters are available.
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    I'm finally getting around to posting these (and a few more to come when I install the Hurricane nuts and spikes).

    These are the pre-mod speakers. This is my first time doing anything remotely like this, and it's a little bit scary. Having someone like Jake by my side was very reassuring. He exudes competence and expertise. If you're on the fence about modding your speakers, DO IT! You'll have a blast, and enjoy better sound for years to come.

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  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Make sure you keep track of where the wires from the crossovers connect to the drivers. A lot of photos can help.

    IMG_0048.jpg
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Some of the drivers have +/- etched on the back. It's still a good idea to note which wires go where (some of the connnectors are color coded, for example). Another important tip is to keep both hands on the screwdriver when removing or installing the drivers. One slip, and the point of the screwdriver is poking through one of the speaker drivers. That would make for a bad day!

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  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited January 2013
    Good pictures!
    What are those cardboard looking things on your speaker grille knobs?
    Best thing to do is to set that screw driver down when your now using it :cheesygrin:
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • Oldfatdogs
    Oldfatdogs Posts: 1,874
    edited January 2013
    What are those cardboard looking things on your speaker grille knobs?

    Those are the tags from his wife's new shoe purchases.:lol:
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Those cardboard stand-offs came with the speakers. I guess they are supposed to help the fit between the grill and the cabinet. As you can see, one is missing. I guess it's unusual to have even as many I have.
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    This may be with the new tweeters installed.

    IMG_0051.jpg
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Jake's advice is to label each wire with a post-it to be sure you get them reattached to the right connectors. It was a good idea! Photos helped, too. One of the crossovers on one of the speakers was very hard to remove. It turned out the nut was glued. If you run into the same problem, take your time, don't force anything, and eventually you'll get it.

    IMG_0054.jpg
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    Jake labeled "something important" with electrical tape. This is very good practice, as we needed this information later. Jake, perhaps you can chime in on that this "something important" is! Thanks.

    IMG_0057.jpg
  • Moofy
    Moofy Posts: 102
    edited January 2013
    This is when it really gets scary for a newbie like me. Thank heavens Jake is the pro from Dover. I should mention that the white clips that hold the crossover in place are easily "sprung" with a needle nose pliers. Again, patience is a virtue. Take your time and be careful.


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