Hurricane Nuts on Tweeter?
audiocr381ve
Posts: 2,588
I thought it appropriate to start a new thread regarding securing the tweeter with hurricane nuts. The tweeters in my Monitor 5's seem very secure already. Is it really worth the extra effort?
As I'm thinking through it, I can see why the woofer and PR would need to be more secure, but I don't see the tweeter needing to be more secure because it's not doing as much? I don't know, some advice would be great
As I'm thinking through it, I can see why the woofer and PR would need to be more secure, but I don't see the tweeter needing to be more secure because it's not doing as much? I don't know, some advice would be great
Post edited by audiocr381ve on
Comments
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Call it insurance, you don't have to worry about stripping the screws holes.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Call it insurance, you don't have to worry about stripping the screws holes.
Ahh okay, so no sonic differences I assume.
I'm starting to warm up to you Mr. Nice Guy. Time has healed the wounds you left
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Correct. Just be careful not to over torque the screws and crack the plastic bezel. One other thing, don't use cap screws on the tweeters, you need either flat head or oval head with an 82 degree undercut.
Don't be a dick and I won't be a ****. :loneranger:Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Correct. Just be careful not to over torque the screws and crack the plastic bezel. One other thing, don't use cap screws on the tweeters, you need either flat head or oval head with an 82 degree undercut.
Don't be a dick and I won't be a ****. :loneranger:
Got it & fair enough Thanks again! -
If you can't find the proper screws for the tweeters, I've got bags full. Be happy to send you some.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I would also recommend adding Armacell gaskets as well.....I agree on the hurricane nuts adding extra insurance as well, the hurricane nuts are a great addition.
I -
Agree with the above - I used H-nuts for the tweeters in my 2.3TL's. The appropriate screws are oval head machine screws. I also used armacell for a good seal - works a treat."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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Don't be a dick and I won't be a ****. :loneranger:
I think that has to go down as one of the all time best quotes I've ever seen on this forum. That's signature material right there!Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
For SDA-2A's, will the 8-32 Hurricane nuts work, or do you suggest another size? Am I correct that I need 3/4" screws for the PR and MW, and 1" for the tweeters? Thanks.
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8-32 is the correct size for all SDA's. I'd suggest 1" screws for all.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I use the 1" 8-32 black oxide coated stainless steel machine screws. They're a dead ringer for the sheetmetal screws Polk used originally, and keeps them stock lookingHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Correct. Just be careful not to over torque the screws and crack the plastic bezel. One other thing, don't use cap screws on the tweeters, you need either flat head or oval head with an 82 degree undercut.
Don't be a dick and I won't be a ****. :loneranger:
F1- I wasn't sure if the bezel was metal or plastic, so you answered it for me. I was in the same mindset as Audiocr381ve on this thinking that the tweets snugged in pretty dang good. However, if those bezels are plastic, then I should replace them.
Question: How do you get those bezels out...drill em out? -
I'm not sure what you mean by replacing the bezels or what you mean by getting them out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I think he is referring to the screw in threaded inserts. But I'm not sure..
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I think he is referring to the screw in threaded inserts. But I'm not sure..
Toolfan is correct. There are threaded inserts supporting the tweeters. -
They will screw out with the correct size Allen wrench..
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The bezel is the faceplate of the tweeter that the four screws go thru to attach it to the cabinet. You cannot replace the bezel, so I'm still not sure what you are up to.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The bezel is the faceplate of the tweeter that the four screws go thru to attach it to the cabinet. You cannot replace the bezel, so I'm still not sure what you are up to.
Good to know F1. While I was pulling a tweeter out to inspect the area, I realized that the tweeter mounting holes had threaded sleeves (thought that's what you meant by bezels). I'm going to install Hurricane Nuts and wanted to see what I was up against. I want to make sure that I can remove them without issue. -
Since you already have threaded inserts, there is no point in replacing them with Hurricane nuts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Is that normal on stock SDA SRSs? I was thinking they seem pretty snug.Since you already have threaded inserts, there is no point in replacing them with Hurricane nuts.
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Is that normal on stock SDA SRSs? I was thinking they seem pretty snug.
It was normal, at least on the original (1985 model) SDA-SRS speakers I had. They weren't foolproof. If the screws that went into them were over torqued the insert itself could strip the wood. That had happened to a couple of the inserts in the woofer on my speakers before I bought them. Not sure why Polk stopped using the inserts in later SRS models though.
If I still had the SDA-SRS with the threaded inserts I'd only mess around with them if installing "Larry's Rings", or replacing any of the inserts that may be loose or already stripped. Replacing inserts that are still stable with hurricane nuts could lead to more problems. -
You cannot replace the bezel, so I'm still not sure what you are up to.
Toolfan66 was supposed to make us some aluminum replacement tweeter bezels. How's that coming?
Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
I just finished installing h-nuts in my 2Bs. I installed the h-nuts in the holes for the tweeters and the binding posts.
When I installed h-nuts in my 10Bs I didn't like the looks of the edge of the h-nut flange hanging out in the holes where the drivers go in. This time I removed the side of the flange so they don't hang over the inside edge of the holes. It takes a little more time but it makes a much better looking job. Does anyone else do that?
I know Larry's rings would be a better solution but I'm on a tight budget and I have lots of time on my hands.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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DarqueKnight wrote: »Toolfan66 was supposed to make us some aluminum replacement tweeter bezels. How's that coming?
Yeah Larry, how is that coming along? :twisted:Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
DarqueKnight wrote: »Toolfan66 was supposed to make us some aluminum replacement tweeter bezels. How's that coming?Yeah Larry, how is that coming along? :twisted:
:cheesygrin: to be honest I put this on the shelf a long time ago due to the machine shop being so busy, and I forgot about it..
Humm might be time to revisit it.. -
TennMan I also cut down the flange on some of the h-nuts I installed on my SRS 2s but it was out of necessity and not cosmetic reasons. The SRS 2s have a cabinet brace immediately below the bottom mws. I could not get the h-nuts to install in the proper position without grinding down the buttom portion of the h-nut flange as you show in your pic. On the plus side this keeps the h-nuts from spinning.
I'm sure this has already been covered many times but something I found helpful to properly seating the h-nuts was to put a little super-glue on the OD of the threaded portion and the flange. I would put the h-hunt in position and then use the screws and a flat washer to pull the h-nuts into the cabinet by tightening the screw. I have never had a problem with the h-nuts coming loose when installed in this manner. -
I would put the h-hunt in position and then use the screws and a flat washer to pull the h-nuts into the cabinet by tightening the screw. I have never had a problem with the h-nuts coming loose when installed in this manner.
That is exactly how they should be installed.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
:cheesygrin: to be honest I put this on the shelf a long time ago due to the machine shop being so busy, and I forgot about it..
Humm might be time to revisit it..
I thought Ray was joking.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
DarqueKnight wrote: »Toolfan66 was supposed to make us some aluminum replacement tweeter bezels. How's that coming?Yeah Larry, how is that coming along? :twisted::cheesygrin: to be honest I put this on the shelf a long time ago due to the machine shop being so busy, and I forgot about it..
Humm might be time to revisit it..I thought Ray was joking.
DO WHAT!!!
let me in on this secrete
