Remove PR's & Drivers Previously Mortited
Comments
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Indeed.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Larry, against my better judgement I tried Mortite on my 4.1TL's. I noticed that the bass didn't sound as good/deep as it did with the stock gaskets, so the Mortite was gone in a flash. I didn't have any trouble removing the drivers/PR's, but I did have to work at getting it off the metal baskets. IIRC, this was done before the rings were installed.
Getting it off the baskets sucked but was worth the time in getting it off and in the trash. At least you didn't have to do 16 drivers..:eek:
Not knocking Matt Polk or Bob Carver but sometimes I feel their followers think they can't do no wrong like Jesus or something.. -
Getting it off the baskets sucked but was worth the time in getting it off and in the trash. At least you didn't have to do 16 drivers..
LOL....yep, that's exactly why I did it to the small SDA's first.Not knocking Matt Polk or Bob Carver but sometimes I feel their followers think they can't do no wrong like Jesus or something..
More fitting of the Carver followers, but yeah.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
+1 on the Hair Dryer. I use one for many stuck situations, and well as "accelerated drying/curing" for certain adhesives and coatings.Heat will soften it just fine. if you don't want to attempt the 125degree attic approach, try the judicious use of a hair dryer. It will take a long "soak" to get everything up to a warm enough temperature but, the freakin thing will release without the need for a catcher! The originator of the Moretite idea ? Yeah, that was Matthew Polk.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
The stuff I used was a rope caulk and not the Mortite brand. I don't remember what brand but I seen a post(s) where someone asked about a different brand than Mortite and was told it would be OK. Well, I do have them out and have been spending the day cutting the Armacell gaskets and doing the Dynamat and installing the rings in the Left speaker. I will wait until next weekend for the Right one. Installation of the rings went well except for the left hand driver. The center partition was not centered and I had to modify that ring becuase it was not going to go in even with the flattened edge. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try to post a pic of my method of PR removal when I get to the Right speaker.
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I did some looking up and I used a rope caulk from Ace Hardware. I read about this in post 106-108 of the Mortite Speaker Seals for SDA's thread. Larry, I also saw that you posted later about using polyurethane to seal the wood from the Mortite. Even though I didn't use Mortite (my Home Depot did not have it), the polyurethane may have helped with my sticky PR's.
Update on the Right speaker. The drivers came off easily with paint can opening tool. The rope caulk came off without sticking. I had to use my wood "T" and clamps to get off the PR. It took more effort to remove than the Left speaker. The caulk even pulled off some thin strips of wood. I installed the rings and used Armacell which made a good seal where the strips pulled off. It was really "glued" to the cabinet. Here are some pictures demonstrating my explanation of the wood "T" earlier. Maybe if I had used the Mortite brand, I wouldn't have had this problem. I'll stick with the Armacell for now!
