Remove PR's & Drivers Previously Mortited
JMSSDA2B88
Posts: 13
A little over 2.5 years ago, I replaced the gaskets with mortite on my SDA 2B Studio's. I just purchased a set of Larry's rings and want to install them with Armacell for the gaskets. I am having a hard time removing the PR/drivers to start the process. I have pushed from the back through the binding cup but the PR is not budging. I have tried the curved paint can opening tool from the front but that doesn't seem to be working (I have been gently using it). I don't want to do something that will cause any damage. Any advice from those of you that have done this before? Thanks!
Jim
Jim
Post edited by JMSSDA2B88 on
Comments
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Put em up in a 125 degree attic for an hour or so..............then......try the push from inside, if that doesn't work, get a helper and try prying from four points around the circumference all at once. Next is a pneumatic air chisel............:eek:
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Actually, if they're that well unified with the baffle, why mess with it? You've got the ideal coupling already.
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i laid my speakers on their backs and gently but firmly pulled with a needlenose on a bit of the basket ring which stuck out just a hair past the front surface. very slow, very careful.Polk Lsi9
N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
NAD 1020 completely refurbished
Keces DA-131 mk.II
Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2 -
Push harder from the inside and have someone in front to catch it when it pops.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
With the space between the drivers, I was able to get them out with the paint can opening tool. I will try pushing harder on the PR. Now I can come in from the back or above from the drivers. Just need to get more leverage!
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This is why Mortite is an epic failure IMHO and should no be used... ever. Armacell is better at sealing, easier to work with and allows for easier removal of drivers later. I cannot remember whp it was that made new seals for the speakers, but those would be the best choice IMHO. While you have them out, clean up that Mortite mess and use something else.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
I know the coupling is pretty good, but I want to put some dynamat on and also some JB weld on the driver magnets. I purchased these back in the fall of 88 (in Mesa, AZ) and they have been moved many times and we are now in Virginia. The magnets have not shifted but I don't want to temp fate.:cheesygrin:
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John you are certainly spot on with the Mortite comment. Why that became such a hot idea I'll never know or understand.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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There is one thing that came out of using Mortie and that is the rings. The Mortite put too much pressure on the threaded inserts on my 1.2tl's and would slowly want to pull them through the partical board that was my initial reason for designing the rings, little did I know at the time they would do more..
Mortite sucks!! get rid of it and use Armacell or new gaskets if you can find them as John stated above.. -
Push harder from the inside and have someone in front to catch it when it pops.
That sounds wrong on so many levels....:cheesygrin: -
And like giving birth don't forget to breathe:razz:Push harder from the inside and have someone in front to catch it when it pops.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Update. I tried to push the PR harder from the rear and from the drivers without success. Even tried to use the needlnose plier suggestion. Over dinner I thought of using a couple of pieces of wood in a "T" shape. I used a 2x4 (about a half inch longer than rear of cabinet to PR) nailed to a 1x6 and inserted the 2x4 section into the speaker. The 2x4 is wide enough so I wdidn't worry about it slipping and going through the PR. I then used 2 clamps on each side of the speaker to pull the "T" forward and push the PR out. I do plan on using Armacell since I don't want to have to do this again.
Thanks for the advice. -
I bet this thread has got a lot of people's knees shaking. Glad I bought extra gaskets from Brgman.>
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>This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.< -
JMS, sorry to hear about your troubles. Personally, i'm very glad that I avoided this Moretite fiasco and went with Armacell from the start. Good luck getting this sorted.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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Do you have access to dry ice? Just thinking that if that crap can be frozen, it might make it easier to crack loose.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
The Mortite was always a bad suggestion but that's neither here nor there at this point. Have you seen the "dental" pick tools kit you can buy from Home Depot? Since you can get at the radiator from the rear, somewhat at least, use the picks to remove any Mortite that is "leaking" around the edges. Your best bet is to get an edge to pop from behind, after that you're fine but DO NOT pry from the front baffle.
My second suggestion is to get a short handled, STUBBY, flat head and pry using that from the rear. OR a long handled flat head, that protrudes enough out of the binding post hole to tap on it with a rubber mallet. Basically what you have is cement now but it will release in larger patches once you get some leverage.
You're not going to get anywhere trying to bang it out as a single unit, so try to hit it corner by corner.
The last suggestion I can say is use the picks to use the mounting hole points and try and pry, towards the metal frame. Get the pick end under the frame hole, and pry inside. Does that make sense?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Don't start using dry ice, period. That's the worst suggestion ever and this is not at that level. It's simply a psuedo-cement issue vs proper leverage.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I have used dry ice in the past for taking linoleum tiles off the floor and it worked better than anything else I tried. I have never used it in an application like this however...Don't start using dry ice, period. That's the worst suggestion ever and this is not at that level. It's simply a psuedo-cement issue vs proper leverage.
Just thinking out loud with it, but thinking more, it may not be very good for the surrounds.:redface:The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
i did try the flat head screw driver to start and ended up replacing the PR because it slipped and i went through the surround.
just be very careful and slow.Polk Lsi9
N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
NAD 1020 completely refurbished
Keces DA-131 mk.II
Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2 -
Heat will soften it just fine. if you don't want to attempt the 125degree attic approach, try the judicious use of a hair dryer. It will take a long "soak" to get everything up to a warm enough temperature but, the freakin thing will release without the need for a catcher! The originator of the Moretite idea ? Yeah, that was Matthew Polk.
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nooshinjohn wrote: »I have used dry ice in the past for taking linoleum tiles off the floor and it worked better than anything else I tried. I have never used it in an application like this however...
Just thinking out loud with it, but thinking more, it may not be very good for the surrounds.:redface:
You've never used it in this application but what a great suggestion for a complete stranger to use, and who's gear you could only have a cursory care for....awesome. I'll add you to the top of my list of Xmas cards for 2013 and it's just not a good idea overall John. It's certainly out of the box I guess.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
You've never used it in this application but what a great suggestion for a complete stranger to use, and who's gear you could only have a cursory care for....awesome. I'll add you to the top of my list of Xmas cards for 2013 and it's just not a good idea overall John. It's certainly out of the box I guess.
Don't I get any credit for being the originator of the use of Armacel? I do care about his gear btw, but I will do a better job of fully thinking my ideas through from now on.:redface:The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
A small L-shaped hex key and pliers work great. Slip the short end of the hex key in the gap between the driver and the cabinet. Twist the hex key with the pliers to hook it under the driver. Pull the hex key outward with the pliers. This works without leaving a mark on the cabinet or edge of the driver.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Guys, he already got it out.JMSSDA2B88 wrote:I used a 2x4 (about a half inch longer than rear of cabinet to PR) nailed to a 1x6 and inserted the 2x4 section into the speaker. The 2x4 is wide enough so I wdidn't worry about it slipping and going through the PR. I then used 2 clamps on each side of the speaker to pull the "T" forward and push the PR out.dorokusai wrote:The Mortite was always a bad suggestion...
I never thought it was a good idea, but Matt Polk did.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Did you use Mortite or something like Mortite? I'm only asking cause I never had an issue pulling my drivers and passives out..
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nooshinjohn wrote: »Don't I get any credit for being the originator of the use of Armacel? I do care about his gear btw, but I will do a better job of fully thinking my ideas through from now on.:redface:
That's just an odd suggestion John. Armacell and other foam or mastics were being used on other forums before they came here to be popular. I believe the modification insanity of CP was a lack of folks that were already doing these things passing on the information and sharing knowledge. I keep my work private, always have and kept my mistakes and successes to myself. That being said, this forum is responsible for a number of notable pieces of excellent work and truly unique ideas that would only be on Polk speakers. Just another reason this place is so awesomeCTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Guys, he already got it out.
I never thought it was a good idea, but Matt Polk did.
Yeah, he also thought the Monitor9 was a great idea but the reality of it was the fact Polk had to use up a bunch of drivers they couldn't use in any other design at the time. Not every idea is awesome and I make my own moves when it comes to upgrades and modifications, don't you? I know you do F1Nut, if anyone does....c'mon now lol.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Did you use Mortite or something like Mortite? I'm only asking cause I never had an issue pulling my drivers and passives out..
Larry, against my better judgement I tried Mortite on my 4.1TL's. I noticed that the bass didn't sound as good/deep as it did with the stock gaskets, so the Mortite was gone in a flash. I didn't have any trouble removing the drivers/PR's, but I did have to work at getting it off the metal baskets. IIRC, this was done before the rings were installed.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yeah, he also thought the Monitor9 was a great idea but the reality of it was the fact Polk had to use up a bunch of drivers they couldn't use in any other design at the time. Not every idea is awesome and I make my own moves when it comes to upgrades and modifications, don't you? I know you do F1Nut, if anyone does....c'mon now lol.
No argument from me on that one...was just pointing out where the idea came from.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
No argument from me on that one...was just pointing out where the idea came from.
Yeah I believe that direct suggestion was expounded upon in another thread and it quickly took root and became a mind of its own. It's a tweak, like any other and sometimes they turn out awesome and sometimes it takes time to see what the final outcome is....it happens. This is by far the most extreme issue so far and it appears he's ok now.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
