Thoughts on subs???
Comments
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He's giving out extremely flawed advice. Bass doesn't require a lot of power? Really? Use car sub woofers? Really? I think I'm putting way too much thought in my replies...LOL
agreed, maybe on both points LOL.Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
Ok so should i get an amp n let the 7's do the wrk or just replace my sub cant do both ? And is the parasound 1200 going to b enough power @ 200wtts , being the 7's are able to hit 300wtts ????AVR: PIONEER ELITE SC-55, FRONT: RTI A7's, CENTER: CSI A4, REAR: RTI A1's, SUB: DSW550wi, TV: SAMSUNG UN55C8000 , ETHEREAL: SUPER OUTLET.
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Here are some Cheap ones, great for Video.. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=303-520Hello Kitty am/fm CD player
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Ok so should i get an amp n let the 7's do the wrk or just replace my sub cant do both ? And is the parasound 1200 going to b enough power @ 200wtts , being the 7's are able to hit 300wtts ????
If you search you will find lots of good information on this quandary. I think that you will be mighty impressed with that amp, and you will just sell your little ol'e sub.
here is a good thread to peruse: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?129719-RTiA9-back-fire-are-they-too-goodLiving Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
How about the pyle pt3300 its $122.98 new would that wrk for the 7's??AVR: PIONEER ELITE SC-55, FRONT: RTI A7's, CENTER: CSI A4, REAR: RTI A1's, SUB: DSW550wi, TV: SAMSUNG UN55C8000 , ETHEREAL: SUPER OUTLET.
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I would stick with a well regarded brand like parasound, adcom, nad, b&k, etc. If you buy those established brands used and take care of your gear you can easily recoup most or all of your money if you change your mind down the road. You won't get anything for that pyle.Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Ok ill prob get the parasound n see how the 7's sound then fig out if i should get a sub...I also read on the thred u gave me that the bass needs to b tweeked on my SC-55 and an amp makes a huge difference thx again guys...AVR: PIONEER ELITE SC-55, FRONT: RTI A7's, CENTER: CSI A4, REAR: RTI A1's, SUB: DSW550wi, TV: SAMSUNG UN55C8000 , ETHEREAL: SUPER OUTLET.
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I have to retract the part about the 20 hrz and he hearing. All loud music leads to hearing loss, not the 20 hrz in particular.
As far as the system I suggested - it is on right now and it sounds fantastic and you are welcome to come check it out. In all honesty, steve, I would be shocked as hell if your ported boombox for SVS sounds even half as good as my Dayton Audio drivers powered by B&K.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
In all honesty, steve, I would be shocked as hell if your ported boombox for SVS sounds even half as good as my Dayton Audio drivers powered by B&K.
Considering all the hogwash that you preach around here, I'm inclined to suggest you have no merit for a comparison. Do you even understand the concept of sub building? You can buy a G note driver but if you don't know what to do with it... -
Ok ill prob get the parasound n see how the 7's sound then fig out if i should get a sub...I also read on the thred u gave me that the bass needs to b tweeked on my SC-55 and an amp makes a huge difference thx again guys...
I think that is a good decision. Just don't want to see you push bad money after bad money. When the time comes, get a good sub that will enhance your 7's, and not detract from them--is all I'm saying. I'm speaking from alot of wasted money experience, for your benefit.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
POlk SW10 on sale at frys, 99 bucks http://www.frys.com/product/4104443?site=sa:Audio%20Pod:Pod6Hello Kitty am/fm CD player
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In all honesty, steve, I would be shocked as hell if your ported boombox for SVS sounds even half as good as my Dayton Audio drivers powered by B&K.
I didn't question your sub, I questioned your advice. I actually have the "entry" level SVS, and surprisingly it works quite well with my Harbeth monitors--which I didn't even believe was possible myself. How's that for an SVS advertisement, $700 sub with $3600 speakers?
Wish I could make up some bad things to say about it, but I'd be lying.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
On another note CHAD, have you done the DAC tweak on the hello kitty rig? I heard it really purrrs..LOL, I'm on a roll.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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another one bites the dust.
God forbid someone recommends something cheap. It must suck by default.
as far as my subs - they sound god damn fantastic. The only thing I don't like is that I used old auto subwoofer boxes that were sitting around. Don't look good next to the A7s. Now I want to build two simple cubical boxes for them, of wood, and then stain them. But where do you buy wood? Home Depot carries no more than 12 " wide, and i don't want MDF, because it doesn't stain.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
You want a sealed sub, based on your preferences. And thats going to cost a little coin. Don't skimp here - you'll regret it.Do you hear that buzzing noise?
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Home Depot carries no more than 12 " wide, and i don't want MDF, because it doesn't stain.
I would build it out of MDF if it was me. Then cover it with what ever wood veneer you want. MDF wont resonate near as bad as a solid 1/2 to 3/4 in thick slab of hard wood.AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
Agree, MDF with the veneer of your choice is a better idea.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2