SDA 2 has no sound from Stereo HF tweeters

81hotcar
81hotcar Posts: 23
edited June 2012 in Troubleshooting
I have the SDA 2 model speaker with glass fuses on the rear panel. The Stereo HF tweeters are the only speakers
not giving sound. Does anyone know where I should begin looking to solve this problem? I read a post about SDA 2s and no
Stereo HF tweeters but it sounded like that member needed to replace polyswitches?

Thanks
Post edited by 81hotcar on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
«1

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    The fuse.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    Both of the fuses on the rear panel are in good shape. Are there other fuses involved?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    No other fuses. Try cleaning the fuse ends and fuse clips. Did you test the fuses or just look at them?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    I just looked at them. I also ohm tested all 4 speakers. only one reads 0. The other three are reading 7.4,7.4,7.8.
    Also neither still work when put back in. The 0 tweeter is one of the stereo HF tweets. How can I test the fuses?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    I also teated the fuses. All are reading .6 on the ohm meter.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    I tested the fuses. They all read .6 on the ohm meter. Also all of the speakers tested 7.4,7.4,7.8 and 0 So one appears to be bad yet still have two that won't work.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    Ok, it would appear that the fuses are good. Did you clean the fuse clips?

    It would also appear that you have one bad tweeter. Did this issue just start? If so, under what circumstance?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    F1 I have cleaned the clips. All four tweeters were not working until I got an interconnect cable. I hooked that up and the two dimensional HF tweeters worked but still had no stereo ones. Just thought I would let you know the left speaker socket for the cable does not hold tight to the plug. I suppose that makes no difference because by connecting the cable it woke up the mid drivers that were silent BEFORE the cable was installed.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    Ok, at this point it's time to look around inside the speaker, trace the connections, inspect/test the components on the crossovers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    F1nut, I have found what looks like the problem. On the circuit board's right side there is what looks like a triple
    stack of capacitors. They look as if they all have been connected with solder. They are toast, really got burned out.
    Attachment not found.
    First question is where do I order parts like that ? I would not even know what to look for in a catalog if that might be your suggestion.
    Second question is what is that grouping called and is it what has both tweeters not working?

    I am confident that if I can get the parts I need then I could fix it.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    IMG_7770.JPG
    IMG_7773.JPG
    Pics for you
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2012
    Pics still no worky hotcar
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    /Users/frankleonard/Pictures/2012_06_26/IMG_7770.JPG/Users/frankleonard/Pictures/2012_06_26/IMG_7773.JPG/Users/frankleonard/Pictures/2012_06_26/IMG_7772.JPG

    Try again
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    Not working
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    IMG_7770.JPG
    IMG_7772.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    Ugh, you've got problems. In the first pic, you've got a cap that has leaked, which is what happens to 20-30 year old caps. It appears in the second pic that one of the inductors is cooked, which could be a real problem as exact replacements are not available. However, as bad as it looks the inductor could still work, you should have it tested.

    Any of the cap goo will have to be cleaned off the board. All caps and resistors will have to be replaced, if and only if the inductor tests good.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
    F1nut, would something other than age cause those caps to leak? I've seen leaky caps, but those look like they were blown apart! Perhaps too much power, amp failure??
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    Long sfory short, can they be rebuilt?
    If so where can I start the search for parts.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited June 2012
    I don't know Jess that inductor likes like it got REALLY HOT...Something that hot i would think it would of melted off the enamel from the wire,but I've been wrong before. Either way a lot of juice went somewhere it should not of. In the first picture it looks as if that resistor got so hot it may of melted that cap. Looks awful brown on the bottom. To the OP your work is cut out for you it can be fixed but you're looking at a complete rebuild with possibly two new inductors that may be close to original spec's

    Calling Darqueknight come in Raife got your ears on?:loneranger:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
    81hotcar wrote: »
    Long sfory short, can they be rebuilt?
    If so where can I start the search for parts.

    81hotcar, don't know exactly which SDA2's you have, but lots of info on many SDA models (schematics, wiring diagrams, etc.) can be found here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?55888-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-Stereo-Dimensional-Array%28SDA%29

    It will help folks here on CP to help you if you can post pics of the front of your speakers with the grills removed.

    As far as parts go many here, including myself, have replaced caps and resistors with sonicap and mills from here: http://www.soniccraft.com/

    Others have used other brands e.g., Clarity Caps and been very satisfied.

    As F1nut said, you need to have the inductors tested to see if they were damaged too. If they were I wouldn't spend the money on the other Xover parts until you get replacement inductors. If one of the Schematics in the link above is for your speakers, you can get the mH and wire gauge value from that, but you need to have an intact one measured to get DCR. There's a slim chance Polk Customer Service has these values in their archives, so I would call them. They don't have it for my 2.3TL's, but you may get lucky.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    would something other than age cause those caps to leak? I've seen leaky caps, but those look like they were blown apart! Perhaps too much power, amp failure??
    that inductor [looks] like it got REALLY HOT...Something that hot i would think it would of melted off the enamel from the wire,but I've been wrong before. Either way a lot of juice went somewhere it should not of. In the first picture it looks as if that resistor got so hot it may of melted that cap. Looks awful brown on the bottom.

    When I enlarge the photos, they are out of focus for some reason, so we'll go with your assessments.
    Long sfory short, can they be rebuilt?
    If so where can I start the search for parts.

    Take them to a qualified repair shop. You need to have the inductor(s) tested.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    Thanks all for the advice. I will post speaker pics right away.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    Sda 2
    IMG_7775.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited June 2012
    why is the white wire taped? Was it that way when you opened it up? Have you opened the other speaker?
    Those are SDA2 no A no B just 2.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    The white and black wires are taped to Apis a short. They are the wires to the dead tweeter.
    No never had them open before.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    I see the schematics list headed:( SDA 2 , SDA2A and the rest SDA 2B.) But the SDA 2 is not in the list he has below that. Can the
    SDA 2A schematic be used for the SDA 2?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,550
    edited June 2012
    No, it cannot.

    The values are printed on the components, but you need to have the inductors tested before anything else.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • gimpod
    gimpod Posts: 1,793
    edited June 2012
    81hotcar wrote: »
    I see the schematics list headed:( SDA 2 , SDA2A and the rest SDA 2B.) But the SDA 2 is not in the list he has below that. Can the
    SDA 2A schematic be used for the SDA 2?

    No there completely different. I would suggest using the good speaker and crossover as a guide to repair the bad on e.
    “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • 81hotcar
    81hotcar Posts: 23
    edited June 2012
    Thanks, can I remove the crossovers and take them in to have the inductors tested ? Both inductors look like toast. Does anyone know of a person that could wind a couple for me if they are shot?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited June 2012
    Why is there fiber fill in the bottom of the cabinet? I have read in other threads where deadening material in the bottom of the cabinet can have an adverse effect on bass response.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter