Subwoofer red and white jack replacement?

matt92
matt92 Posts: 9
edited January 2012 in Troubleshooting
Hey guys I'm in need of some help, I know a decent amount about audio equipment. I have an elongated 8' polk audio subwoofer - model number UL 1492 or LR106476. I moved my surround sound to my dorm room. I was hooking it up and I had the red and white audio cable plugged in and when I sat it down the cable did not reach and therefore broke the tips of into the audio receptors. I removed the tip from the red jack sucessfully, but cant remove the white one. I was wondering what part should I buy to replace it or what I could do. I would be greatful for some info soon!
Post edited by matt92 on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • michael1947
    michael1947 Posts: 775
    edited January 2012
    Post some photos of both broken parts and we may be able to come up with a fix.
    Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
    Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.

    Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    I don't know if you can see that clearly, but the red input is clear, and the white or negative is clogged with the tip.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited January 2012
    matt92 wrote: »
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    I don't know if you can see that clearly, but the red input is clear, and the white or negative is clogged with the tip.

    I would try a pin, needle or a small nail to remove that.
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    I've tried that, actually both broke off and i cut one end off a cue tip, put super glue on the end and pulled it out, but its not working for this one. What is the name for the audio receptors? I'm guessing I will have to buy new receptors for it, could someone give me a link to where they sell these?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,759
    edited January 2012
    I could be wrong but I believe you only need 1 unless it's some kind of sub/sat setup that requires R/L. I only use one on my SVS.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    ken brydson wrote: »
    I could be wrong but I believe you only need 1 unless it's some kind of sub/sat setup that requires R/L. I only use one on my SVS.
    yeah I've plugged it in with one, but it only has half the power with one, it doesn't seem near as loud.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2012
    It seems lower in volume due to half the input voltage, but that shouldn't affect the output wattage of the amplifier. Make the needed gain adjustments to compensate. If you are getting the signal from a receiver that has adjustable subwoofer gain, move it up by 3 dB.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    sub.jpeg
    Dennis Gardner wrote: »
    It seems lower in volume due to half the input voltage, but that shouldn't affect the output wattage of the amplifier. Make the needed gain adjustments to compensate. If you are getting the signal from a receiver that has adjustable subwoofer gain, move it up by 3 dB.
    Ok I have two tuners, one that controls power output (Hz, from 60-180), and volume (60-180). I noticed it has 2 inputs for speakerwire, and 2 outputs for speakerwire, so I went ahead and plugged the inputs with my reciever, it seemed that it may of helped some, but not much. Do you think it makes any difference hooking them up? Also is there anyway I could just buy a new svc box?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2012
    One knob is the crossover frequency cutoff, the other is volume. If you are handy, you could unplug the unit from the wall and take out the screws that mount it to the back of the box. This would allow you to see if the broken part could be removed from the inside at all. The whole amplifier is mounted to the metal plate that you see and should be easy to get into.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    ok i will do this soon, and upload a pic of the amp. Thanks for the replies guys.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    I took apart the sub, and took two photos of the amp.
    sub1.jpeg
    sub2.jpeg
    sub1.jpeg
    sub2.jpeg

    I believe the vca receptors are by the yellow glue or muck. How much would a new amp cost?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    does anyone have any advice of what i should do?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2012
    You can replace the RCA connectors if you know how to solder, or a local TV repair shop can do this for you. Shouldn't cost much, my roommate in college had this done for $20 IIRC.
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited January 2012
    If it were me on a budget I would go get a roll of speaker wire and use the speaker level inputs....
    Too much **** to list....
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    awesome thanks, I called around yesterday to some audio places, and they were going to charge me 25$ just to look at the sub, even when I told them what is exactly wrong with it....I'm goin to try some tv repair shops now.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • PolkDrigo
    PolkDrigo Posts: 1
    i'm looking to purchase one of these used, but i can't find the user manual anywhere online. does anyone know what the ohm resistance is and how many watts are in these bad boys? i'm hoping it's compatible with my onkyo tx-nr535.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • classic carl
    classic carl Posts: 648
    If you want to replace the RCA jacks, they are available from Parts Express or any other parts dealer online.
    Main System:
    Proton AA-1150 ~ Yamaha C-4 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Sennheiser HD600 ~ Monitor Audio Silver RS8 & FB210 ~ Martin Logan Dynamo ~ Teac R-919X ~ Marantz CD5003 ~ Squeezebox Classic ~ Music Hall dac25.2 ~ Dual 1229/Acutex M312 III STR ~ Music Hall mmf-5.1/Goldring 1012GX ~ Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0

    Home Theater:
    Vizio V585-H11 ~ Yamaha RX-V800 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Marantz DV6001 ~ EPI M90 ~ Polk Audio RT35i ~ CS400i ~ (2) Polk Audio PSW450

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter