Subwoofer red and white jack replacement?

matt92
matt92 Posts: 9
edited January 2012 in Troubleshooting
Hey guys I'm in need of some help, I know a decent amount about audio equipment. I have an elongated 8' polk audio subwoofer - model number UL 1492 or LR106476. I moved my surround sound to my dorm room. I was hooking it up and I had the red and white audio cable plugged in and when I sat it down the cable did not reach and therefore broke the tips of into the audio receptors. I removed the tip from the red jack sucessfully, but cant remove the white one. I was wondering what part should I buy to replace it or what I could do. I would be greatful for some info soon!
Post edited by matt92 on

Comments

  • michael1947
    michael1947 Posts: 775
    edited January 2012
    Post some photos of both broken parts and we may be able to come up with a fix.
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  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    I don't know if you can see that clearly, but the red input is clear, and the white or negative is clogged with the tip.
  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited January 2012
    matt92 wrote: »
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    2qw1q4m.jpg
    I don't know if you can see that clearly, but the red input is clear, and the white or negative is clogged with the tip.

    I would try a pin, needle or a small nail to remove that.
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  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    I've tried that, actually both broke off and i cut one end off a cue tip, put super glue on the end and pulled it out, but its not working for this one. What is the name for the audio receptors? I'm guessing I will have to buy new receptors for it, could someone give me a link to where they sell these?
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,774
    edited January 2012
    I could be wrong but I believe you only need 1 unless it's some kind of sub/sat setup that requires R/L. I only use one on my SVS.
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    I could be wrong but I believe you only need 1 unless it's some kind of sub/sat setup that requires R/L. I only use one on my SVS.
    yeah I've plugged it in with one, but it only has half the power with one, it doesn't seem near as loud.
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2012
    It seems lower in volume due to half the input voltage, but that shouldn't affect the output wattage of the amplifier. Make the needed gain adjustments to compensate. If you are getting the signal from a receiver that has adjustable subwoofer gain, move it up by 3 dB.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

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  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    sub.jpeg
    It seems lower in volume due to half the input voltage, but that shouldn't affect the output wattage of the amplifier. Make the needed gain adjustments to compensate. If you are getting the signal from a receiver that has adjustable subwoofer gain, move it up by 3 dB.
    Ok I have two tuners, one that controls power output (Hz, from 60-180), and volume (60-180). I noticed it has 2 inputs for speakerwire, and 2 outputs for speakerwire, so I went ahead and plugged the inputs with my reciever, it seemed that it may of helped some, but not much. Do you think it makes any difference hooking them up? Also is there anyway I could just buy a new svc box?
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2012
    One knob is the crossover frequency cutoff, the other is volume. If you are handy, you could unplug the unit from the wall and take out the screws that mount it to the back of the box. This would allow you to see if the broken part could be removed from the inside at all. The whole amplifier is mounted to the metal plate that you see and should be easy to get into.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    ok i will do this soon, and upload a pic of the amp. Thanks for the replies guys.
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    I took apart the sub, and took two photos of the amp.
    sub1.jpeg
    sub2.jpeg
    sub1.jpeg
    sub2.jpeg

    I believe the vca receptors are by the yellow glue or muck. How much would a new amp cost?
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    does anyone have any advice of what i should do?
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited January 2012
    You can replace the RCA connectors if you know how to solder, or a local TV repair shop can do this for you. Shouldn't cost much, my roommate in college had this done for $20 IIRC.
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited January 2012
    If it were me on a budget I would go get a roll of speaker wire and use the speaker level inputs....
    Too much **** to list....
  • matt92
    matt92 Posts: 9
    edited January 2012
    awesome thanks, I called around yesterday to some audio places, and they were going to charge me 25$ just to look at the sub, even when I told them what is exactly wrong with it....I'm goin to try some tv repair shops now.
  • i'm looking to purchase one of these used, but i can't find the user manual anywhere online. does anyone know what the ohm resistance is and how many watts are in these bad boys? i'm hoping it's compatible with my onkyo tx-nr535.
  • If you want to replace the RCA jacks, they are available from Parts Express or any other parts dealer online.
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