Anyone know about construction? How much support am I losing? (TV riser)

kazaam

So...i messed up my measurements. I'm building a TV riser to put my TV on top of and my huge center speaker underneath of. How much structural integrity/strength/support/whatever would i lose (if any) by going from TV riser A to TV riser B? The TV + stand weighs 76.5 lbs. I will secure it with 4 large L-brackets, four 2" screws going down vertically, and perhaps adhesive. I want to add something going along the back, but the speaker has a rear firing port and this is apparently not good to do.

A:



B:



Sorry for the weird view, I havent built them yet and I was just trying to see what it would look like (I flipped the images).

THANKS!

AsSiMiLaTeD

How wide is the base of the stand, is it as wide as that top piece? Can you make the top piece wider and have a build that looks closer to the first image, even if just by a little bit?

kazaam

AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »

How wide is the base of the stand, is it as wide as that top piece? Can you make the top piece wider and have a build that looks closer to the first image, even if just by a little bit?

Well, thats pretty much what I planned on doing initially, and what I'm asking now. It seems like A would be the stronger TV riser, which is what i originally had planned, so i think I'll just go get another (larger) piece of wood cut so that it'll look like A.

kazaam

If i want the new, revised stand to look like TV riser A, i will have to make it like this:

stands 22" apart (so there is some wiggle room)
factor in the extra 3/4" for each board width so thats 1.5" more
and i guess have about 2" going past each foot on each side=4" more

so about 27.5-28" total for the top, where the feet will be about 22" apart and the TV stand will probably be about 22" wide as well.

On second thought though...the legs must be about 22" apart since the width of the center speaker is 21.3" (gives some wiggle room, i might even go 23" apart). The tv stand is completely flat and 21.5" long, and since the speaker must be WITHIN the stands, the tv stand and the speaker stands wont completely overlap. The center is 11.1" deep and the tv stand is 12.1" deep, but i made it 14" deep so it wouldnt be completely flush with the edge and have about 1" clearance on either side.

I could actually just keep the current shape and add a brace. However if you all think i should go with A, I could also move the center forward a little since both faces are open, and add a brace there too.

So i guess i could revise it like i said above and add a horizontal brace or keep it as is and add a horizontal brace.

newrival

It's likely to be just fine if that wood is of decent quality.

The riser strength is a constant. They exert the same r1 resistant value no matter where they are if they are symmetrical.

The variable, then, is the bracing and the top piece, which I would wager will be plenty strong given the rigid nature of the load.

so my opinion is legs/risers at the edge with 4 internal L'brackets as sturdy and large as possible to fit intherewithout looking unsightly. plus it will lookbetter

jbooker82

The one with the over hang looks better. Looks more like a shelf than a box. Make it out of a good hard wood. Use wood glue along with fasteners. I bought a tv riser 2. It is black and made out of hard wood stained black. I glued it together and put a couple 2.5 in black sheet rock screws. It holds my 100lb plasma tv fine. No wrapping or bowing at all.

gdb

Use either oak or yellow pine stair tread stock, either design will support an elephant!

jbooker82

Here is my tv stand. It will fit a csi a4 but not an a6.

jbooker82

Ronster267

Why not just get a wall mounting bracket for the T.V.? I got a great wall mount from amazon for $33.00 and it will support up to 165 lbs. It was easy to install and looks great too. You could then put whatever center you wanted right on the stand you were going to put the riser on.

JimAckley

I would give it a slight overhang like booker's. If you're worried about strength, you could have a piece in the back that will help support the legs. Here's a rather crude and quickly-drawn SketchUp I made of it with the piece I'm referring to, colored in bright red. You don't necessarily have to add the slant, but it would futher help bear the weight, or if you've got the room, you could make it bridge all the way across for rock solid support.

Here's what I'm talking about:

Back/bottom angle, separate pieces


Back/bottom angle, bridged piece


Front/bottom angle, bridged piece


Just remove 3/4" from the depth of your legs (or whatever thickness material you're using) to compensate for the added piece of wood in the back.

If you wanna get real fancy, snag some black fabric to make a curtain that will hang along the top and sides of your speaker, so nobody can see what you did in the back for support, and hang it near the back of the speaker so it looks like the speaker goes off into the dark abyss without your "curtain" being visible. Plus, it will hide the wires, which helps ever so slightly with WAF

20hz

I would do it with a full length back support piece that hangs down at least 3inches down on the back (make sure its deep enough for the center)
With that you will get strength without the front looking too thick .

jbooker82

Ronster267 wrote: »

Why not just get a wall mounting bracket for the T.V.? I got a great wall mount from amazon for $33.00 and it will support up to 165 lbs. It was easy to install and looks great too. You could then put whatever center you wanted right on the stand you were going to put the riser on.

I would but I just rent and didnt want to put big holes in the wall. I guess I am to nice of a tenant.

kazaam

Wow, thanks a lot Jim for the models!

What type of wood would you suggest I use? How much of an overhang would you suggest on either side? Is 2" enough, or can I go 1"?

Thanks!

jjwm27

jbooker82 wrote: »

I would but I just rent and didnt want to put big holes in the wall. I guess I am to nice of a tenant.

got mine on the wall with the Lsic under it, i guess im not that nice of a tenant. thats a very nice stand you got there by the way, i like it.

kazaam

Indeed, Booker what wood did you use and how much of an overhang is there on either side?

engtaz

Look very good. Great work.

Geoff4rfc

Ronster267 wrote: »

Why not just get a wall mounting bracket for the T.V.? I got a great wall mount from amazon for $33.00 and it will support up to 165 lbs. It was easy to install and looks great too. You could then put whatever center you wanted right on the stand you were going to put the riser on.

jbooker82 wrote: »

I would but I just rent and didnt want to put big holes in the wall. I guess I am to nice of a tenant.

If you were ever considering the wall mount, DO it. You can still be "that" nice of a tenant. I've relocated my wall mount twice, just fill in the holes with sheet-rock mud, spray texture if needed and paint, pretty easy fix and not at all expensive if materials are bought in small quantities.

Heck, when I owned my home, I had all kind of holes in the walls from various attachments, mudded, some sanding, little texturing, paint and presto, never knew anything was ever on the wall.

mantis

What Kind of Tv is it? If it's a flat panel have you considered wall mounting?

CCNJ

I'm no expert but I do dabble in small woodworking projects. The straight "Butt Joint" is the weakest woodworking joint. I've used it successfully as a center channel stand but I think I would use something more to reinforce if it's going to hold an expensive and heavy TV. I think JimAckley made a good suggestion is his previous post along with using wood glue to solidify the joint.

You could also consider something called a "Rabbet Joint" which is much stronger joint. You would need a router or a table saw however to make the cut outs.

Good Luck

jbooker82

I bought my stand from ebay but it can be bought from amazon too. It is call " TV Riser Two" by Wood Tech.
http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Tech-TV-Riser-Two/dp/B0043WG9H4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1313864979&sr=8-4

Here is the MFG's web site. It doesnt say what kind of hardwood it is made up of. It is heavy and deffinatly not made up of a soft wood.
http://www.wood-tech.com/content/tvriser2

It has 3 sets of holes so you can make it wide or narrow. I put mine on the out side so it is as wide as possible.

It uses 2 cam bolts and I think (cant remember) 2 dowls on each side support. The cam bolts are those long steel bolts with a big head on them. They stick out of the wood like a wooden dowl. Then in the other pice they go in to a metal disk that you turn to lock it in place.

I just drilled two pilot holes inbetween the two cam bolts on the top plate from the bottom. Then assembled it dry and used the holes that I just drilled to drill the pilot holes in side supports.

I used my dremal to remove the finish on the end of the support / leg, and the bottom of the top plate so the glue would bond to the wood and not the black finish.


Added glue then assembled it like the instructions stated. Finally put two sheet rock screws in and repteaded on the other side.

Gadabout

kazaam wrote: »

Indeed, Booker what wood did you use and how much of an overhang is there on either side?

If it is wide enough for you, Home depot carries Oak Stair Tread. It already has a radius cut on one edge (if you don't have a router). It is almost 1" thick and incredibly thick. All you should have to make are a few straight cuts.



My guess is it would never bow with a static load of 100 lbs on it. Sand it well and stain it the color of your choice.

Scott

fyrn

I think this has been cover before, so mostly to reiterate.
The only two issues I see is the width of the stand (distance between the two legs) make sure the "shelf" material is thick enough to support the weight.
And two I would give the stand some support/bracing to prevent lateral movement. A simple front frame or a "hanging strip" in the back should do.
Just my two cents

gdb

To reinforce against "racking" you can just screw some steel corner irons on the back of the shelf/leg or..........make dadoes if so equipped.

jbooker82

If you look at my pics you can see the rubber feet on the tv base are close to the side support / legs. There isn't any weight in the center.

kazaam

So I built it and it fits!

I tried taking your advice as much as I could.

I used TV riser B so I wouldn't have to buy more wood, glued the pieces together, screwed three #10 2" screws down vertically on each side, used 4 L-brackets about an 1-1/2" in with 4 #8 3/4" screws in each one. Then, there was a 2-2-1/2" piece that was as long as the entire thing, so I glued it to the back and screwed it in with 6 #10 2" screws. This piece was screwed into the feet and into the top board, and acted as a skirt/brace/lip. The glue was liquid nails.

The damn thing is solid and fits almost perfectly!

Now I just need to figure out how to cover it with a black fabric and figure out where to buy that fabric!

JimAckley

Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.

kazaam

As long as the rear port is open and the speaker has room its ok, right? Theres very little clearance on either side (probably like .25" all around) on the front, but speakers dont get hot/need room or anything as long as the face is completely open and exposed, right?

gdb

kazaam wrote: »

So I built it and it fits!

I tried taking your advice as much as I could.

I used TV riser B so I wouldn't have to buy more wood, glued the pieces together, screwed three #10 2" screws down vertically on each side, used 4 L-brackets about an 1-1/2" in with 4 #8 3/4" screws in each one. Then, there was a 2-2-1/2" piece that was as long as the entire thing, so I glued it to the back and screwed it in with 6 #10 2" screws. This piece was screwed into the feet and into the top board, and acted as a skirt/brace/lip. The glue was liquid nails.

The damn thing is solid and fits almost perfectly!

Now I just need to figure out how to cover it with a black fabric and figure out where to buy that fabric!

There is a thread completely devoted to how to find black paint, if that's any help.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29186&highlight=black+paint

JimAckley

kazaam wrote: »

As long as the rear port is open and the speaker has room its ok, right? Theres very little clearance on either side (probably like .25" all around) on the front, but speakers dont get hot/need room or anything as long as the face is completely open and exposed, right?

As long as your port can flow freely, you should be good

kazaam

Front:



Front showing lip:



Back:



Underside (from front):