Sda srs

bzpolksda

I'm going to be looking at some SDA SRS's tonight.
Is there any quick pointers on what to look for?
I've read about the PR test for the seal, I was wondering how to tell the difference between an SRS and a 1.2.
Thank you in advance for your input Bill

gimpod

The SDA SRS will have a Blade/Blade Interconnect cable and the 6 1/2 drivers will all be MW-6503's where the SDA SRS 1.2 will have a Pin/Blade Interconnect and the 6 1/2 drivers will be 4 MW-6503's and 4 MW-6511's.

michaeljhsda2

If it has a pin/blade interconnect socket then they are 1.2's (and can be converted to 1.2 TL's with the appropriate mods). If it's a blade/blade interconnect then they are the original SRS's.

pitdogg2

don't they also say 1.2 on the back?

michaeljhsda2

pitdogg2 wrote: »

don't they also say 1.2 on the back?

Some do and some don't. The easiest way to tell the difference between the SRS and the 1.2's is the interconnect socket (there is no such thing as an original SRS with a pin/blade IC).

bzpolksda

Thank you, that's just the kind of info I'm looking for!

gimpod

Also FYI if the dome on tweeters are black and they have the P/B IC they could be 1.2TL's if they have not been replaced.

bzpolksda

gimpod wrote: »

Also FYI if the dome on tweeters are black and they have the P/B IC they could be 1.2TL's if they have not been replaced.

I'm pretty sure it's all original but I won't know until after 7:00, I will post some pics if I feel like it's a good deal.
Thanks, Bill

restanim

Also, original SDA-SRS's have 13 screw heads on the crossover plate as 1.2's have 9.

Mike

michaeljhsda2

restanim wrote: »

Also, original SDA-SRS's have 13 screw heads on the crossover plate as 1.2's have 9.

Mike

That is unreliable as Polk used up old stock on newer models of speakers.

bzpolksda

Just got back from looking at the SRS's, they are 1.2's, B/P IC, 9 screws on X/O and 1.2 on the back plate, black domed tweeters.
They're in pretty rough shape cosmetically, the top trim cap is missing on one speaker, cloth would need to be replaced on side panels & grills, not that big of a deal.
They failed the PR test for seal, the dust caps are pushed in on 8 of the mid-range drivers and 2-3 of the tweeters are damaged:frown:
I know that these are all workable issues depending on price, but what are some opinions on what would be a good price with these issues considered?
Thank you, Bill

michaeljhsda2

At least 1.2's for sure and sounds like 1.2 TL's. You need to find out what kind of tweeters they are. Can you call the seller and ask him to remove one of the damaged tweeters and read the model number. That will confirm without a doubt whether they are 1.2 or 1.2 TL's. Did you get any pics?

michaeljhsda2

Hard to say what to offer for them. Does his asking price seem high, low or ok considering the condition of them?

bzpolksda

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

At least 1.2's for sure and sounds like 1.2 TL's. You need to find out what kind of tweeters they are. Can you call the seller and ask him to remove one of the damaged tweeters and read the model number. That will confirm without a doubt whether they are 1.2 or 1.2 TL's. Did you get any pics?

Sorry, no pics tonight, the tweeters were totally black (no black dome with silver trim) if that helps.

michaeljhsda2

Sounds like 1.2 TL's to me.

bzpolksda

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Hard to say what to offer for them. Does his asking price seem high, low or ok considering the condition of them?

I think the prices seems pretty good, it would be a no brainer if any one or two of the issues was not present (like if only 2 mid's had pushed in dust caps, etc.), I forgot to mention no IC either.

gimpod

bzpolksda wrote: »

Just got back from looking at the SRS's, they are 1.2's, B/P IC, 9 screws on X/O and 1.2 on the back plate, black domed tweeters.
They're in pretty rough shape cosmetically, the top trim cap is missing on one speaker, cloth would need to be replaced on side panels & grills, not that big of a deal.
They failed the PR test for seal, the dust caps are pushed in on 8 of the mid-range drivers and 2-3 of the tweeters are damaged:frown:
I know that these are all workable issues depending on price, but what are some opinions on what would be a good price with these issues considered?
Thank you, Bill

Black dome tweeters, If you can pull one and it says it's an SL-3000 those are 1.2TL's. Ether way I would try and get them as cheap as I could i.e under $800 if there TL's and about $400 - $500 if not. Keep in mind that new tweeters and drivers are around $50.00 each. 8 tweeters $400, etc..
Sounds like a good winter project if the price is right.

bzpolksda

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Sounds like 1.2 TL's to me.

The more I've looked at pics of srs's, 1.2's & 1.2 TL's the more I would have to agree with you.

bzpolksda

gimpod wrote: »

Black dome tweeters, If you can pull one and it says it's an SL-3000 those are 1.2TL's. Ether way I would try and get them as cheap as I could i.e under $800 if there TL's and about $400 - $500 if not. Keep in mind that new tweeters and drivers are around $50.00 each. 8 tweeters $400, etc..
Sounds like a good winter project if the price is right.

Thank you, that gives me a point of reference.

Toolfan66

IMO going by what your saying and if all drivers are functioning even with the dented dust caps I say $500 max..

To give these a full face lift and upgrades it could cost almost $1000 depending how crazy you want to get..

I can help you with the top woodcaps..

bzpolksda

TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »

IMO going by what your saying and if all drivers are functioning even with the dented dust caps I say $500 max..

To give these a full face lift and upgrades it could cost almost $1000 depending how crazy you want to get..

I can help you with the top woodcaps..

Thank you, I'm going to have to really think this over.

Big Dawg

TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »

IMO going by what your saying and if all drivers are functioning even with the dented dust caps I say $500 max..

To give these a full face lift and upgrades it could cost almost $1000 depending how crazy you want to get..

I can help you with the top woodcaps..

I agree that it makes sense to keep the price down, and I didn't check your estimate of $1,000 for upgrades/restoration, but if accurate, $1,500 and some effort is one great deal for 1.2TLs. What is the going rate for fully restored 1.2TLs? $2K?

michaeljhsda2

I would pay 2k for a fully restored pair, heck ya. However, when they do come up for sale they always seem to be in stock condition without any upgrades at all and condition is not always the best. Those go for 1300 to 1500 and up. I think the highest I've seen was 3400 for a stock pair in great condition with original shipping boxes. To find a pair with upgraded caps for sale is pretty rare.

Big Dawg

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

I would pay 2k for a fully restored pair, heck ya. However, when they do come up for sale they always seem to be in stock condition without any upgrades at all and condition is not always the best. Those go for 1300 to 1500 and up. I think the highest I've seen was 3400 for a stock pair in great condition with original shipping boxes. To find a pair with upgraded caps for sale is pretty rare.

I guess that's kinda my point - that even at $1,000 or more, this could be a solid buy.

bzpolksda

Thank you all for your help and input, I'm going to continue to study this project and will keep you posted.
BTW, I'm a SDA CRS owner since 85 so I'm not a total newbie

bzpolksda

Good morning And round two.
I have not done a listening test on these yet, they were not hooked up when I went to see them last night.
I have a 100 WPC Pioneer receiver I can take with me to test them out.
Any suggestions on what to watch out for on a listening test?
I would figure that is recommended but maybe not necessary?
Thank you all again for your help in this undertaking!
Bill

michaeljhsda2

Since there is no interconnect cable you will need take some bare speaker wire and shove it in the pin portion of the socket on each speaker (no need to insert a wire in the blade portion of the socket). Not sure if you have the time but if you have a soldering iron and solder you can you make an IC cable by using the center pin of an RCA jack (cut off the outer pieces of metal that surround it) and solder the speaker wire to it and insert in the speaker.

michaeljhsda2

Also bring along an empty paper towel roll and hold it up to each tweeter to make sure sound is coming out of each one. Keep in mind that the output from each tweeter will vary and this is normal. 2nd tweeter from the bottom should be the loudest, the top one I think is the faintest.

michaeljhsda2

It's a bit tougher to figure out if the MW's work. Can't really help you there.

Big Dawg

If you have an interconnect cable connected, you can turn the balance all the way to the left and listen to the dimensional drivers on the right speaker, and then do the reverse.

audio_alan

One other thing that I didn't see mentioned above. You might want to bring a flashlight and check the surrounds on the drivers very carefully. If they have pinholes or slits in the surround material, that will be a location for air to escape (which may be part of why the PR test is failing). Needing to replace one or two drivers wouldn't be a big deal, but if half or more of the drivers are damaged :eek:, that's even more money you're going to have to lay out to get them back to operating correctly...

If the cabinets don't seal well, they are going to sound weak, bass-wise. But, when they are holding their air pressure well and you have them setup correctly, they should have all the bass you will need for 2-channel audio. Those big guys dig DEEP! :biggrin: