RDO 198 and Monitor 10's
rromeo923
Posts: 1,513
I have a pair of Monitor 10's w/ SL 2500 tweeters. One of the tweeters has a rip in it. However it sounds fine. I was wondering how much of an upgrade would the RDO 198's be.
I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything
The reflected sound of everything
Post edited by rromeo923 on
Comments
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Not much as the RDO-194 is the replacement for those tweets. 198's are reserved for TL models, or those that can be TL'd.
I will let you know that I replaced both with 194's in my 10's and did not hear any negatives and am happy with the results.
Hope this helps,
NathanHome Rig
SDA 2.3TL's front and center
Polk 1000p Center
Pioneer Elite SC35 Receiver (Pre/Surround
Sunfire Cinema Grand 5X200-Back in the mix.
OPPO BDP-93
Squeezebox
Stepped up to name brand Speaker Cables and interconnects!
Monitor 4, 5, 7, 10's, SDA 1B's, 2B's, 2.3TL's, RTA 15TL's all in storage waiting for me.
Sales Rating #1!! -
I have a pair of Monitor 10's w/ SL 2500 tweeters. One of the tweeters has a rip in it. However it sounds fine. I was wondering how much of an upgrade would the RDO 198's be.
I'm going to be putting a pair of RD0-194's up for sale either later today or tomorrow if you're interested. -
I believe the 198 is the replacement for the SL2500 and SL3000. The 194 replaces SL1000 and SL2000 only. Someone please correct or confirm...or call Polk.
Combo rig:
Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
PB13Ultra RO
BW Silvers
Oppo BDP-83SE -
Yes, the RD0198s are the correct replacement for the SL2500s.
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WastelandWand'r wrote: »Not much as the RDO-194 is the replacement for those tweets. 198's are reserved for TL models, or those that can be TL'd.
I will let you know that I replaced both with 194's in my 10's and did not hear any negatives and am happy with the results.
Hope this helps,
Nathan
Completely incorrect.
SL2500/SL3000 = RD-0198
SL2000 = RD-0194
The part number has nothing to do with the TL model as it does the actual tweeter itself. Sure, it could be construed that way but the fact is, it's a replacement for a discontinued tweeter.
I left out the SL1000 for a reason. The problem with the SL1000(RD-0194) is frame size and even tho' it can be used, they aren't the same size tweeter....nor was the SL2000.
The Monitor line had no TL upgrade or model.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Ok 198 it is. Now back to my original question.
The speakers cost me $60. The upgrade would be $100. Is it worth it? Will I listen and say wow!
I changed my sl2000's to 194's on my SDA 1c's and that cost me $200 and I felt it was well worth it. However, I was having major listening fatigue w/ the 2000's
The 2500's sound fine, even with a torn tweeter.
So will the rd 198's be that much better than the 2500's?I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything -
I'd stick with the SL2500.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Ok another thing.
I just did the push test on these 10's and I thought they did ok until I did the push test on my 7's and I saw how much more the 7's mids came out so much more and stayed out longer. I tightened the screws and noticed that on a few screws they were stripped. Any suggestions on fixing these issues?I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything -
Rromeo and Doro,
My apologies. I was under the impression that the 198 was a direct replacement/upgrade for the older series of tweeters found in TL models, (11TL, 15TL, 2.3TL, 1.2TL) or those speakers that had been upgraded to TL status by the owner modifying a crossover, such as the 2B's, or CRS4.1TL .
When I called POLK several years ago, there that is my excuse, and asked for the replacement for my tweeters in my Model 10's (which I hope no one was getting the impression I was suggesting could be TL'd) I was told 194 and 194 only. Obviously it was because I had the older SL2000 tweeters in place not 2500's.
Oh well, at least I tried. Like my basketball coach used to say!!
Sorry for the bad info, and enjoy those 10's Rromeo.
Happy Trails,
NathanHome Rig
SDA 2.3TL's front and center
Polk 1000p Center
Pioneer Elite SC35 Receiver (Pre/Surround
Sunfire Cinema Grand 5X200-Back in the mix.
OPPO BDP-93
Squeezebox
Stepped up to name brand Speaker Cables and interconnects!
Monitor 4, 5, 7, 10's, SDA 1B's, 2B's, 2.3TL's, RTA 15TL's all in storage waiting for me.
Sales Rating #1!! -
Nathan - No worries...no animals were harmed in the posting of that information.
MarkCTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Cheap fix is to insert and glue wooden matches in the old holes (this is the usual trick for remounting doors on kitchen cabinets, etc). A more sophisticated and time-consuming fix is to get some hardwood dowels, drill out the stripped area, glue and insert dowels. Drill pilot holes for the driver screws and you're set. You can practice on scrap material first if you want to play it safe.Ok another thing.
I just did the push test on these 10's and I thought they did ok until I did the push test on my 7's and I saw how much more the 7's mids came out so much more and stayed out longer. I tightened the screws and noticed that on a few screws they were stripped. Any suggestions on fixing these issues? -
The whole matchstick idea just makes me laugh and of the literally dozens of Polk's I've owned, never used it. I use wood filler and in the event they were fubar'd, simply spun the and drilled new holes. It's not a difficult issue.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Both are standard woodworking practices, and are preferred to wood filler for this application because they are less likely to fail. Rotating the driver is certainly also a possibility if you are O.K. with the final appearance.The whole matchstick idea just makes me laugh and of the literally dozens of Polk's I've owned, never used it. I use wood filler and in the event they were fubar'd, simply spun the and drilled new holes. It's not a difficult issue. -
Aren't TOOLFORLIFEFAN's rings available for monitor 10's? That would be the ultimate fix for the stripped screws.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103241- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Ok another thing.
I just did the push test on these 10's and I thought they did ok until I did the push test on my 7's and I saw how much more the 7's mids came out so much more and stayed out longer. I tightened the screws and noticed that on a few screws they were stripped. Any suggestions on fixing these issues?
Recently I bought a package of 50 of these from Parts Express for around $4-5. They're similar to T-nuts, but the teeth on the body are much smaller, making them easier to insert in the enlarged holes you drill.
They work great! I used 8-32 0.75 inch cap head screws with them, though any 8-32 screw would work They do what Larry's rings do, i.e. make a good seal between drivers and front baffle, and solidly connect the driver to the front baffle to improve transient and bass response.
Fred"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Both are standard woodworking practices, and are preferred to wood filler for this application because they are less likely to fail. Rotating the driver is certainly also a possibility if you are O.K. with the final appearance.
I'm aware John and just stated my preference. I've been fixing Polks for far longer than you have if I was to guess.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I've used the match/toothpick fix for the last 34yrs. The fact that the repairs were not on Polks doesn't matter at all. The fact is that some of the repairs have lasted over 30 yrs. and were subjected to far more stress than simply holding a woofer in place.
On replacing the 2500 tweeters.....I would leave them alone. Once in a while you can find these tweeters on e-bay for a reasonable price.TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
I respect that you have many years of experience. Nevertheless, wood filler is an inferior fix.I'm aware John and just stated my preference. I've been fixing Polks for far longer than you have if I was to guess.
I manage to minimize issues with stripping driver screws by avoiding MDF. My standard front baffle design is 1/2" hardwood laminated onto 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Its tough to strip a screw when its seated in 1 inch of real wood. -
I respect that you have many years of experience. Nevertheless, wood filler is an inferior fix.
I manage to minimize issues with stripping driver screws by avoiding MDF. My standard front baffle design is 1/2" hardwood laminated onto 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Its tough to strip a screw when its seated in 1 inch of real wood.
Very Nice, I would like to see more pics.. -
Finshed product from previous photos, mini-monitor enclosures, sub enclosure. All use hardwood laminated onto high-quality baltic birch plywood for the front baffle.TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Very Nice, I would like to see more pics.. -
Relax toothpick users, good lord.. I've rarely had to use them, big freaking deal, simply think it's funny and we're talking about Polks, on a Polk website. I use filler/epoxy because it's as simple as the next fix, inferior or not as I don't go cranking my speakers down every 4 weeks nor remove them to do some other innane tweak. Far be it from me to stop anyone from using a stupid toothpick.
W O W....welcome to Club Polk, home of the sensitive believer and easily disturbed poster.
That's great work John and thanks for the wealth of experience you bring to the forum Don. I'd reference my years of service to audio but it's not very interesting ultimately.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Relax toothpick users, good lord.. I've rarely had to use them, big freaking deal, simply think it's funny and we're talking about Polks, on a Polk website. I use filler/epoxy because it's as simple as the next fix, inferior or not as I don't go cranking my speakers down every 4 weeks nor remove them to do some other innane tweak. Far be it from me to stop anyone from using a stupid toothpick.
W O W....welcome to Club Polk, home of the sensitive believer and easily disturbed poster.
That's great work John and thanks for the wealth of experience you bring to the forum Don. I'd reference my years of service to audio but it's not very interesting ultimately.
Seems to me that you're the one upset as you often are. GTF over yourself.TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
Yeah, you're right Don.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Finshed product from previous photos, mini-monitor enclosures, sub enclosure. All use hardwood laminated onto high-quality baltic birch plywood for the front baffle.
I didn't think that laminated solid wood was as good for baffles and enclosures as particle board & MDF are. Too much resonance and whatnot.
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Finshed product from previous photos, mini-monitor enclosures, sub enclosure. All use hardwood laminated onto high-quality baltic birch plywood for the front baffle.
That is some fine looking work! More pictures and a step by step if possible.
Thanks for the photos.TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
Solid wood alone is not a good idea for use as a baffle due to its propensity to change shape (split, crack, warp) over time. However, when laminated onto an equal or better thickness of plywood, the results are excellent. There is no need to veneer and, as you can see, large roundovers are possible.I didn't think that laminated solid wood was as good for baffles and enclosures as particle board & MDF are. Too much resonance and whatnot.
The more prominent myth is that MDF is superior to birch plywood for building enclosures. Its just not true. Birch ply is actually stiffer than MDF (below, ModElas is modulus of elasticity).
18mm Birch ply:
ModElas = 3400 N/mm^2 (perp), 4600 N/mm^2 (parallel)
Density = 12.4 kg/m^2
18mm MDF:
ModElas = 2200 N/mm^2
Density = 10.8 kg/m^2
MDF dulls tools, its dust is very fine and contains formaldehyde, it hold screws poorly, corners are easily damaged, and there is no possibility to use it in an unfinished state because its so ugly. BB ply is beautiful (in my subjective opinion) with only a clear finish (shellac, acrylic or poly). -
I wish. I had started to make some step-by-step notes but the to-do list for projects is just too long and time is too short. Anyhow, thanks alot for the kind words.That is some fine looking work! More pictures and a step by step if possible.
Thanks for the photos. -
Plywood, laminated or whatever is an extremely poor choice of any part of a speaker cabinet.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Plywood, laminated or whatever is an extremely poor choice of any part of a speaker cabinet.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/reports/1977-03.pdf -
Even baltic ply is subject to varying densities, core gaps, checking and cracking. Important things that one doesn't have to worry about with MDF.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
This discussion has been closed.