Need saw / blade recommendation
kevhed72
Posts: 5,059
I need to cut 6 laminated stock shelves...I imagine they are particle board under the laminate. The boards are 36" by 12", and I need to cut 3" off the length. What blade / saw do you all recommend as to keep a super-clean cut.
I own a miter saw, circular saw, and jig-saw....the miter saw will not make 1 clean cut due the blade is smaller than 12"....
???
I own a miter saw, circular saw, and jig-saw....the miter saw will not make 1 clean cut due the blade is smaller than 12"....
???
Post edited by kevhed72 on
Comments
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IME, I have never had a super clean cut on particle board as it's not made for that. Not quite sure what you are asking, really...
Circular saw I'm guessing would be my answer but a table saw would be more precise.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I would expect the cleanest cut with a blade with a lot of teeth, and go slow."Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."
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Tape down your cut area with painters tape helps keep laminate intact on the bottom side of the cut, use a fine tooth blade2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
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erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Also tape the cuts that you will be making and it will help keep the laminate from chipping. I always do this when cutting veneered ply and does the trick to keep it from chipping:biggrin: oops I guess I was too late:redface:I love animals, they're delicious!
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Thanks folks...this is one of the last steps in a custom shelf unit for HT room.
Here's the link to when the project started:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114645
The shelves are going in the cubby in the first pic -
I need to cut 6 laminated stock shelves...I imagine they are particle board under the laminate. The boards are 36" by 12", and I need to cut 3" off the length. What blade / saw do you all recommend as to keep a super-clean cut.
I own a miter saw, circular saw, and jig-saw....the miter saw will not make 1 clean cut due the blade is smaller than 12"....
???
A circular saw with a fine (many) tooth blade. You'll need to clamp a guide on the shelf material for the saw to rest against.TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
Try a triple chip blade on your circ saw using a guide/fence to run the saw's shoe against. P.S. 71/4" triple chip blades are rarer than 9-10-12s the one below is a little expensive but will give the best possible cut with a hand held saw.
http://www.amazon.com/Oldham-725P7260-4-Inch-Carbide-Surface/dp/B000LOIK0C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304881085&sr=1-1-fkmr0 -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Tape down your cut area with painters tape helps keep laminate intact on the bottom side of the cut, use a fine tooth bladegreyford1979 wrote: »Also tape the cuts that you will be making and it will help keep the laminate from chipping. I always do this when cutting veneered ply and does the trick to keep it from chipping:biggrin: oops I guess I was too late:redface:A circular saw with a fine (many) tooth blade. You'll need to clamp a guide on the shelf material for the saw to rest against.Try a triple chip blade on your circ saw using a guide/fence to run the saw's shoe against. P.S. 71/4" triple chip blades are rarer than 9-10-12s the one below is a little expensive but will give the best possible cut with a hand held saw.
http://www.amazon.com/Oldham-725P7260-4-Inch-Carbide-Surface/dp/B000LOIK0C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304881085&sr=1-1-fkmr0
Ditto to the above.
In my experience, you get the cleanest cut by cutting from the bottom so the saw teeath are coming UP into the taped laminate side.TNRabbit
NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
Sunfire TG-IV
Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
Carver AL-III Speakers
Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Tape down your cut area with painters tape helps keep laminate intact on the bottom side of the cut, use a fine tooth bladeA circular saw with a fine (many) tooth blade. You'll need to clamp a guide on the shelf material for the saw to rest against.
Yeah, FINE tooth, that is what I was trying to say!"Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason." -
Thin kerf 60 or 80 tooth.
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I need to cut 6 laminated stock shelves...I imagine they are particle board under the laminate. The boards are 36" by 12", and I need to cut 3" off the length. What blade / saw do you all recommend as to keep a super-clean cut.
I own a miter saw, circular saw, and jig-saw....the miter saw will not make 1 clean cut due the blade is smaller than 12"....
???
Buddy i think rip saw will be best in this case for you as it make a rip cut across the wood.
And we can use these blades to cut the wood across the surface and over the stock.
Your 6 laminated stock shelves can be cut down by rip saw.
If you are good in woodworking then you can make super-clean cut using it.
you can check this blog to get idea about Buying guide before purchasing it.
Best regards
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Jamesfreak9 reported.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Thin kerf 60 or 80 tooth.
This is what I used to cut countertops and cut it from the bottom with a circular saw. I usually clamp a board with some scrap boards to the bottom so the base of the saw has something to ride against for a straight cut. -
If you go the circular saw route,use a carbide tooth blade. 60-80 tooth as mentioned above,and use the painters tape as well.See my profile for list of gear.
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You guys know this is a 9 year old thread revived by a spammer, right?
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Party pooper 😹😂
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Good tips though. And Kev might still be in the planning phase.I disabled signatures.
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2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
For the life of me I cannot remember what project this was....
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haha, looks like you started it when it was the old forum.
Here's an adjusted link
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/114645
Ring any bells?
I disabled signatures. -
But I’m sure you used the right blade.
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Ahhh. My idea at the time turned out to be a bust. I would post a current pic but the room is piled high with the hoarder/wife stuff due the flooded office. I'll update with a pic soon....
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John 1189 reportedGustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus