I would like to mod your crossovers revised

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,611
edited January 2012 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hey guys!

I know some folks will be like - ANOTHER thread? (Here is the original thread - http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111988)

But I think those same people can agree that thread is a little diluted and lost track most of the way through..

Here is what I am currently doing... and wanted to update this...

Crossovers -

1-9 pieces (kept on original boards, only changing out parts) - $20.00
10-20 (kept on originals boards, only changing out parts) - $30.00
Big SDA crossovers (SRS, 1.2, 2.3, etc) - $60.00 each
External crossovers - $100.00 each

Modifying the original board to accomodate crossover parts without stacking - +$20.00 to the above price

Currently the tools I have at my disposal are as follows -
  • variable wattage soldering iron
  • 4% silver, 96% tin solder
  • desoldering bulb iron - not a wick
  • Top notch glue gun so it gets real hot and adheres extremely well
  • Dayton driver,inductor,capacitor measurement software for verifying values, replacing inductors or checking your speakers...
  • DH Labs wiring used at all times

My recommended components are as follows (and I would like to stick to these components if at all possible but will of course use whatever parts you like - but these parts are tried and true for me and I know you will experience a positive difference.)

**Clarity Cap (MR, ESA, SA, PX)
**Duelund, Mills, Mundorf (Mox) resistors
Solen, Dayton, Auricap

All prices above are for labor only, all parts, etc are extra and will be exact cost with shipping from the supplier. You will also be responsible for return shipping.

The fastest way to do this is to send me detailed pictures of your crossover - of each component with the lettering shown in the picture. If this is not a possibility you can ship the crossovers to me and I can get you parts quotes from there.

My average turn around time is 2-3 weeks pending parts. Depending on the board and its parts list - this time frame can vary.

I am also happy to help out members in general with crossover questions or those that want to modify their own! Feel free to ask in this thread!!!

See pics for examples of some of ones I have completed

Current list of speakers I have modified are as follows -

Tyler Acoustics Super Towers
Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference II
Tyler Acoustics Taylo Monitors
Definitive Tech SM450
Polk Audio RTia7
Polk Audio CSia5
Polk Audio LSi9
Definitive Tech BP20
Definitive Tech CLR1000
Definitive Tech BP7000SC
Definitive Tech CLR3000
Monitor Audio Silver 8i

If you have any questions -

Email me at

vr3mxdmicblce2k7@gmail.com or PM me here! :) Thanks!
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
«1345

Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited April 2011
    I am pretty much freed up with no "backorder" time.

    All current crossover should go out this Tuesday.

    Thats not to bad - 5 crossovers in 2.5 weeks. Yep!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited April 2011
    who's sexy external crossovers are in Pic 3? oh wait, those are mine...wahooooo!!!!!!!

    listening to them as we speak, so much money........well spent
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited April 2011
    Thanks Lou! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited April 2011
    Going to add a few more things Id like to do...

    Replace internal wiring with DH Labs Silver Plated Copper ($4.00 per foot) + $7.00 per board labor
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited May 2011
    Just to let you guys know. I had Trey (Vr3MxStyler2k3) modd my RTI A7's and CSI A4 cross overs. He did a good job, and they were a lot of work. They sound quite a bit better. It took the edeg off the tweeters. They don't seem so in your face and over powering. They are more full sounding. I liked the RTI A7's before the mod, but they are even more sweet now. I dont have an audiophile ear just enjoy great sound quality. I am currently powering them with my Onkyo TX-NR808 rated at 135wpc @ 2 channels driven.

    The worst part of the deal was using TV speakers while my xo's were out being modded.

    I would recomend doing it if you like the speakers you currently have, because you will love them after modding them.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited May 2011
    Here is the Tower of Power from my RTI A7's
    attachment.php?attachmentid=57075&d=1303051139
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Glad to hear you are enjoying them man! After about 200 hours they will be fully broken in! Between now and then it will only get sweeter and sweeter!

    Thanks! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • truwarrior22
    truwarrior22 Posts: 18
    edited May 2011
    jbooker82 wrote: »
    Just to let you guys know. I had Trey (Vr3MxStyler2k3) modd my RTI A7's and CSI A4 cross overs. He did a good job, and they were a lot of work. They sound quite a bit better. It took the edeg off the tweeters. They don't seem so in your face and over powering. They are more full sounding. I liked the RTI A7's before the mod, but they are even more sweet now. I dont have an audiophile ear just enjoy great sound quality. I am currently powering them with my Onkyo TX-NR808 rated at 135wpc @ 2 channels driven.

    The worst part of the deal was using TV speakers while my xo's were out being modded.

    I would recomend doing it if you like the speakers you currently have, because you will love them after modding them.

    Nice! I'm stuck useing just rear surrounds for the time being till I get mine lol Not sure what's better...TV speakers from the front or decent surrounds in stereo from the back lol
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Thats to funny Jack!

    I am doing the same thing with my amps at Odyssey - but apparently my new ones were shipped today and will be here Wednesday... (So he says, no tracking numbers to prove it ;))
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,004
    edited May 2011
    So, next month maybe?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    They better be Wednesday! ;)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited May 2011
    Good morm. I'm thinking about redoing a pair of (83) rta 12b's can send picts of crossover. Do you have a rough idea as to what parts would cost? And can you do them? Thanks! Pm me or get me on this thread
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Cost on crossovers can really be just about whatever you want to spend within in reason... so pretty much let me know your budget and I will see if I can make it happen. I can definitely do yours. vr3mxdmicblce2k7@gmail.com
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • prac843
    prac843 Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    I am interested in getting my crossovers modified. I purchased 3 PSB GT-1 Towers (left center right) a few months back and like them. I always like to get the most I can out of my electronics so I am interested in upgrading.

    I was going to do the modding myself but do not have time to learn everything so I am interested in your service. The crossover has 2 boards, the one attached to the binding posts goes to the tweeter and the second board routes to the 2 woofers.

    The stock crossover looks to have much smaller components then everything else I've seen pics of. I also have not seen many with multiple boards. I am very new to this and have only been looking around for about a week.

    Speakers specs are located here:http://www.psbspeakers.com/products/G-Design/G-Design-GT1-Tower. The tweeters are Tymphany/Vifa and the woofers have identical model numbers and are suppose to be the exact same units used in the PSB Platinum T6.

    I would be willing to put some good money into this if the sound quality would greatly improve. Please contact me back with some ideas or quotes. Pics of the boards are below.

    dscf4408z.th.jpg
    dscf4414w.th.jpg
    dscf4413k.th.jpg
    dscf4412o.th.jpg
    dscf4410b.th.jpg
    dscf4409.th.jpg
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    email me at vr3mxdmicblce2k7@gmail.com

    We can definitely improve these
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Responded to your email! :) Thanks
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,190
    edited May 2011
    I got my crossovers last week and they are still in the box. I'm still debating on if I'm gonna give them to you or do it myself. Have been doing many other things and have not sat down and took the time to learn more about the parts and what can be improved.

    I think it's very cool you are offering this to the forum and taking the time to tweak. I love that about you in a straight man kind of way LOL.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    lol - no problems my friend! lol

    I just picked up the Weller Digital Soldering iron to make sure you guys are getting the best of the best too! :)

    Let me know - fast turn around time - so fast it will melt the baffle those speakers are mounted to! ;)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited May 2011
    lol - no problems my friend! lol

    I just picked up the Weller Digital Soldering iron to make sure you guys are getting the best of the best too! :)

    Let me know - fast turn around time - so fast it will melt the baffle those speakers are mounted to! ;)

    Just for my own curiosity, how much for a LSi 15 crossover and also a LSiC...

    Thinking long term on how much I need to save up to do this....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Honestly man I dont really know...

    What I will tell you - if you want to spend X, I will make X happen.

    There are just so many variables, quality of parts, keeping them internal, etc etc...

    I would say a nice middle of the road for the LSi15 would be 5-700 dollars total...

    LSiC - 200-300?

    Just rough guesses
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited May 2011
    Honestly man I dont really know...

    What I will tell you - if you want to spend X, I will make X happen.

    There are just so many variables, quality of parts, keeping them internal, etc etc...

    I would say a nice middle of the road for the LSi15 would be 5-700 dollars total...

    LSiC - 200-300?

    Just rough guesses

    That works for me. Will start my rainy day fund for them.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    Hey gents!

    I am approaching having three crossovers in the house - potentially four at one time...

    Granted this should not slow me down one iota - but if they keep coming in at this rate I may have to increase my wait time to 2-3 weeks but right now I am potentially on less than a week, a week, a week and a half turn around time.

    Thanks for all your opportunities to help out the Polkies and for me to stop upgrading my s@#t so I can upgrade yours! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited May 2011
    I would like to add that I will fully support using ERSE components..

    I am doing some RTA12C crossovers right now and the caps are very well built for the money.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited May 2011
    mantis wrote: »
    I got my crossovers last week and they are still in the box. I'm still debating on if I'm gonna give them to you or do it myself. Have been doing many other things and have not sat down and took the time to learn more about the parts and what can be improved.

    I think it's very cool you are offering this to the forum and taking the time to tweak. I love that about you in a straight man kind of way LOL.

    Hey Dan did you ever get around to getting those done?
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • Esreuter
    Esreuter Posts: 176
    edited June 2011
    OK Vr3,

    I would like to talk to you about x over mods.

    I am going to keep researching before doing this but i am going to do my first one on my center channel with mid parts.

    the clarity caps SA, mundeorf resist, and i had picked out the esre foil inductors.

    i have a few general questions and concerns.

    first and foremost is polarity, i can trace it looking at my xover board, but with out holding the caps, induct, and resistor in my hands, i see no markings as to which side is which. or does it not matter, just make sure to follow the circuit on the board?

    second, i noticed you didnt change out to many inductors on other speakers, was this a request or generally should you not change inductors?

    lastly, a couple of difference in qualities. i have a need for a 5.7 ohm resistor but only find a 5.6, same goes for a cap, the original is a 8uf but the replacement is a 8.2uf. I would like to know any dangers, negatives or gains from these mismatched values before venturing out on my quest.

    That is all for now. i am excited to hear from you all in this matter.

    Again thank you all for the learning here at CP.

    ESR:biggrin::biggrin:
    AVR: Sony 5600ES
    Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
    Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

    More to come :biggrin:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited June 2011
    Usually the polarity does not matter.

    Inductors are expensive and are pretty hard to match... it can be done though! :)

    If it is within 5% you should be golden! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Esreuter
    Esreuter Posts: 176
    edited June 2011
    Thanks for your reply.

    i have been teaching myself to read schematics all night.

    i have looked at so many i think my brain broke.

    i have another concern that i would like to run by you.

    About the inductors being hard to match.

    on my physical x over board there is no info on what guage the coil is, soooo i am just assuming (mother of all f up's, i know.) the guage is small.

    the smallest awg i found at madisound is 16awg foil. so i ran with it.

    when talking wound inductors, is the awg an important factor? or are you pretty much at free reign as your wallet dictates in that area?

    Perhaps this is what you meant by inductors are hard to match eh.

    thanks again for your time.

    ESR:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

    note, i havent ordered anything yet, gots to get all me p's and q's lined up first.
    AVR: Sony 5600ES
    Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
    Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

    More to come :biggrin:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited June 2011
    You actually have to measure them (I have the tools) - you have to match up the DCR and the MH - very hard to do but we can do it!

    Before you order anything I highly recommend you just send your crossovers to me so we can measure everything
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Esreuter
    Esreuter Posts: 176
    edited June 2011
    ah ha!


    sooo that is what makes replacing them so hard eh?

    what do you use to measure them.

    i have a standard multimeter. will that take care of the job or is there another tool or specific piece of software needed to calculate everything.

    note, I am not trying to not send you anything, just looking to do anything i can myself so i can learn.

    thanks again.

    esr:biggrin::biggrin:
    AVR: Sony 5600ES
    Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
    Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

    More to come :biggrin:
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited June 2011
    I use software - the Dayton WT3

    Great program
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.