need new receptacle

bopicasso

Any recommendations? Mine is broke from the weight of the pangea power cords. I was wondering if anyone has upgraded their receptacle and was there a sonic improvement. I was about to run up to lowes and buy one....

Conradicles

Try a hospital grade from Lowes...I think they are about $11...can't go wrong with these...

bopicasso

I was considering spending 50 bucks on a ps audio or similar audio grade receptacle.
But if the lowes hospital grades will work fine I will use that.
Thanks

Conradicles

Well, if you want to spend the money I would go with a PS Audio or MIT just for the cool factor...One of these days I'll upgrade mine as well.

janmike

Berylium R1. (Oyaide.com)

fbm211

I 2nd the Oyaide...Link>> http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?powrdist&1307298893&/Oyaide-R1

Or you can get what I just got--The ATL 1000cu Pure ETP Copper AC Receptacle, CryoParts CryoFreeze Treated and get a nice Aluminum faceplate with it for free.

ATL link-- http://cryo-parts.com/index.php/ac-receptacles/atl

Systems

The Furutech receptacles are excellent for the money.
Problem is they just raised their prices on all products across the board.
I've been using their 20 amp gold and a Cu and could not be happier.

You would be happy with any of these:
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/ac/socket/outlet/furutech_fp15a.htm

W WALDECKER

I use a 20 amp recepticle from www.acmeaudiolabs.com and in some gear i use thier silver/ceramic fuses. they have well made stuff for a resonable price

fishbones

Does your home have to be run for 20amp, to use a 20amp receptacle?

Ern Dog

Receptacles is also on my short list of upgrades to try. I'm going to start with trying Porter Ports, $36 on Audiogon. Lots of positive reviews about them do some research.

Let us know which ones you ended up with and how you liked it.

Schurkey

fishbones wrote: »

Does your home have to be run for 20amp, to use a 20amp receptacle?

I'd expect that to be covered by the national electrical code. You don't have heavy enough wires and a proper circuit breaker, YES, I suspect an inspector will ding you.

My amps are on dedicated circuits (and therefore dedicated circuit breakers) using 25 feet of 10-gauge copper wire from breaker to outlet. The electrical service to the house was replaced about six years ago; I have new cable (200 amp) from the transformer in the alley to the circuit breaker box. I would never in a million years buy "audiophile" outlets, I cannot imagine a bigger waste of money except perhaps a Tice-"modified" Radio Shack digital clock.

tonyb

Not everyone has dedicated circuits, or replaced their electrical system in their house. Because you see no value in it for yourself doesn't mean somebody else won't. If you ever pulled an electrical outlet and saw how cheap they are made, a hospital grade or audiophile grade outlet makes sense.

sucks2beme

Hospital grade. Yes most wall outlets are so cheaply built, it's scary.
There are better outlets available in most hardware stores.
Either way, anything I put in here will be better than those
worthless builder grade ones. I've broken a number of them here.

disneyjoe7

fishbones wrote: »

Does your home have to be run for 20amp, to use a 20amp receptacle?

Yes, a 20amp receptacle needs a 20amp break circuit and at least a 12g wiring to it from the CB.

ohlins

i use oyaide r-1 too... with oyaide wallplate



http://oohlins.blogspot.com/2010/10/new-face-2.html

Schurkey

tonyb wrote: »

Not everyone has dedicated circuits, or replaced their electrical system in their house.

Agreed. I mentioned that to show that I do care about getting power to my amps, and I'm prepared to pay what is NEEDED instead of what is audiophile-superstition-approved. Shoving a hundred-dollar "audiophile" outlet onto thin, ancient wires isn't going to accomplish magic. Without low-impedance/low resistance wiring from the neighborhood transformer to the transformer in the amplifier, it is FRIGGIN' POINTLESS to pay insane amounts of money for voodoo outlets and "power cords".

tonyb wrote: »

Because you see no value in it for yourself doesn't mean somebody else won't. If you ever pulled an electrical outlet and saw how cheap they are made, a hospital grade or audiophile grade outlet makes sense.

Hospital-grade, I could perhaps see. I didn't choose to use them, but the price is not outrageous and the quality is apparent. Audiophile-grade is marketing bullship, you might as well wave a magic wand over a hospital-grade outlet and then move the decimal point on the price. The only question is whether the decimal is moved "only" one place, or is it moved TWO places.

sucks2beme wrote: »

Hospital grade. Yes most wall outlets are so cheaply built, it's scary.
There are better outlets available in most hardware stores.
Either way, anything I put in here will be better than those
worthless builder grade ones. I've broken a number of them here.

YES! Don't buy the cheapest, crappiest outlet on the market. Don't use an outlet that was made in 1942 and is now so loose and worn-out that it won't hold the prongs of the power cord you plug into it. Buy a plain ol' ordinary MADE IN USA outlet from the local Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Local hardware store. Less than ten bucks. Heavy copper conductors, strong housings. Trouble-free for many years. The electrons don't know the outlet isn't audiophile-rape-job priced.

DarqueKnight

bopicasso wrote: »

I was wondering if anyone has upgraded their receptacle and was there a sonic improvement. I was about to run up to lowes and buy one....

I have had good results with the PS Audio Power Port and Power Port Premier.

Power Port Premier Review

Power Port Review

fishbones wrote: »

Does your home have to be run for 20amp, to use a 20amp receptacle?

Yes, but you can use a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp line.

Systems

Agreed. I mentioned that to show that I do care about getting power to my amps, and I'm prepared to pay what is NEEDED instead of what is audiophile-superstition-approved. Shoving a hundred-dollar "audiophile" outlet onto thin, ancient wires isn't going to accomplish magic. Without low-impedance/low resistance wiring from the neighborhood transformer to the transformer in the amplifier, it is FRIGGIN' POINTLESS to pay insane amounts of money for voodoo outlets and "power cords".

Seems like you have all the answers.
Guess we can close this thread now that you have spoken.:eek:

I would certainly beg to differ, but then again, I HAVE TRIED the audiophile receptacles, and combined with good power cords, there is no comparison.

You should consider this:
Its not everything behind your receptacle providing the magic, its eveything in front of it.

tonyb

pepster wrote: »

You should consider this:
Its not everything behind your receptacle providing the magic, its eveything in front of it.

Very good, thats almost sig material there.
Well said bro.

fbm211

+1^^^

DarqueKnight

Schurkey wrote: »

Buy a plain ol' ordinary MADE IN USA outlet from the local Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Local hardware store. Less than ten bucks. Heavy copper conductors, strong housings. Trouble-free for many years. The electrons don't know the outlet isn't audiophile-rape-job priced.

A plain ol' ordinary water faucet is all that is required to deliver water from the municipal water supply. However, some people choose to improve the taste of their water with further filtration devices attached to the faucet. This is after the water has been processed by a multi-million dollar water treatment plant. Many people find that the taste of their water is further improved with additional processing called refrigeration. A scientific laboratory might install a water filtration system costing tens of thousands of dollars to supply the ultrapure water required for their research.

Similar to municipal water, some people find that the quality of utility company power can be improved with additional filtration and conditioning. A manager at my local power company straight out told me that the power they supply is unsuitable for high end audio and video systems and that power conditioning devices are required between the wall and such systems. This is because of the noise content and voltage fluctuations in utility company power. [Link: Power Line Gremlins]

Just as there is no need to spend a fortune on household water filters, there is no need to spend a fortune on household power conditioning devices. Inexpensive options that perform very well exist in both areas. Power conditioners and higher performance power cords can also be inexpensively built as DIY projects. In fact, the first high performance power cords came from the DIY community. [Link: Premium Audio Cable History.]

There are some very expensive power conditioning devices available. However, I am not aware of a case where the vendors of such equipment attempt to mislead the public that every audio enthusiast needs the tip top in power conditioning equipment. It is assumed that a consumer will do the required market research and choose accessories that are complimentary to the performance level of their audio system.

pepster wrote: »

Its not everything behind your receptacle providing the magic, its eveything in front of it.

Some people get it.

janmike

DarqueKnight wrote: »

A plain ol' ordinary water faucet is all that is required to deliver water from the municipal water supply. However, some people choose to improve the taste of their water with further filtration devices attached to the faucet. This is after the water has been processed by a multi-million dollar water treatment plant. Many people find that the taste of their water is further improved with additional processing called refrigeration. A scientific laboratory might install a water filtration system costing tens of thousands of dollars to supply the ultrapure water required for their research.

Similar to municipal water, some people find that the quality of utility company power can be improved with additional filtration and conditioning. A manager at my local power company straight out told me that the power they supply is unsuitable for high end audio and video systems and that power conditioning devices are required between the wall and such systems. This is because of the noise content and voltage fluctuations in utility company power. [Link: Power Line Gremlins]

Just as there is no need to spend a fortune on household water filters, there is no need to spend a fortune on household power conditioning devices. Inexpensive options that perform very well exist in both areas. Power conditioners and higher performance power cords can also be inexpensively built as DIY projects. In fact, the first high performance power cords came from the DIY community. [Link: Premium Audio Cable History.]

There are some very expensive power conditioning devices available. However, I am not aware of a case where the vendors of such equipment attempt to mislead the public that every audio enthusiast needs the tip top in power conditioning equipment. It is assumed that a consumer will do the required market research and choose accessories that are complimentary to the performance level of their audio system.




Some people get it.

Well said and a nice analogy.

JimAckley

DarqueKnight wrote: »

A plain ol' ordinary water faucet is all that is required to deliver water from the municipal water supply. However, some people choose to improve the taste of their water with further filtration devices attached to the faucet. This is after the water has been processed by a multi-million dollar water treatment plant. Many people find that the taste of their water is further improved with additional processing called refrigeration. A scientific laboratory might install a water filtration system costing tens of thousands of dollars to supply the ultrapure water required for their research.

Similar to municipal water, some people find that the quality of utility company power can be improved with additional filtration and conditioning. A manager at my local power company straight out told me that the power they supply is unsuitable for high end audio and video systems and that power conditioning devices are required between the wall and such systems. This is because of the noise content and voltage fluctuations in utility company power. [Link: Power Line Gremlins]

Just as there is no need to spend a fortune on household water filters, there is no need to spend a fortune on household power conditioning devices. Inexpensive options that perform very well exist in both areas. Power conditioners and higher performance power cords can also be inexpensively built as DIY projects. In fact, the first high performance power cords came from the DIY community. [Link: Premium Audio Cable History.]

There are some very expensive power conditioning devices available. However, I am not aware of a case where the vendors of such equipment attempt to mislead the public that every audio enthusiast needs the tip top in power conditioning equipment. It is assumed that a consumer will do the required market research and choose accessories that are complimentary to the performance level of their audio system.




Some people get it.

Well-put!

Schurkey

DarqueKnight wrote: »

A plain ol' ordinary water faucet is all that is required to deliver water from the municipal water supply.

Quality vs. quantity. Gets complicated when BOTH are important.

That ordinary water faucet, or a gold-plated "designer" faucet--connected to 1/4" pipe--is certainly capable of delivering a trickle of water.

An inexpensive outlet, or an audiophile-approved hundred dollar voodoo outlet, connected to thin/corroded wiring, is capable of delivering a trickle of electrical current.

If the plumbing--or the wiring--is undersized, no faucet or outlet can make up for the infrastructure shortcomings. Not even expensive voodoo outlets.

I know of a guy who tried to run a pair of bridged Hafler 500s (and, of course preamps and source components and a water heater, electric stove, etc.) in a house having 60-amp electrical service. I hear he went through a lot of fuses before he went back to some cheap NAD receiver.

Most folks will not upgrade the house wiring to accommodate their audiophile desires; house wiring has to be done by licensed professionals and must meet "code"; which is why I don't know of anyone selling "audiophile" cryogenic, Tice-impregnated house wiring, circuit breakers, etc. (Yet...I maybe just invented a new way to screw audiophiles.)

DarqueKnight wrote: »

However, some people choose to improve the taste of their water with further filtration devices attached to the faucet. This is after the water has been processed by a multi-million dollar water treatment plant. Many people find that the taste of their water is further improved with additional processing called refrigeration. A scientific laboratory might install a water filtration system costing tens of thousands of dollars to supply the ultrapure water required for their research.

Similar to municipal water, some people find that the quality of utility company power can be improved with additional filtration and conditioning. A manager at my local power company straight out told me that the power they supply is unsuitable for high end audio and video systems and that power conditioning devices are required between the wall and such systems. This is because of the noise content and voltage fluctuations in utility company power. [Link: Power Line Gremlins]

Yup. But the original post wasn't asking about power filters, he was asking about outlets--recepticles.

DarqueKnight wrote: »

Just as there is no need to spend a fortune on household water filters, there is no need to spend a fortune on household power conditioning devices. Inexpensive options that perform very well exist in both areas. Power conditioners and higher performance power cords can also be inexpensively built as DIY projects. In fact, the first high performance power cords came from the DIY community. [Link: Premium Audio Cable History.]

There are some very expensive power conditioning devices available. However, I am not aware of a case where the vendors of such equipment attempt to mislead the public that every audio enthusiast needs the tip top in power conditioning equipment. It is assumed that a consumer will do the required market research and choose accessories that are complimentary to the performance level of their audio system.

I'll grant that power conditioners can be helpful. I'm less generous with "audiophile" power CORDS. Again, this thread didn't start out with power conditioners in mind.

I'll stick to my statement...

Without low-impedance/low resistance wiring from the neighborhood transformer to the transformer in the amplifier, it is FRIGGIN' POINTLESS to pay insane amounts of money for voodoo outlets and "power cords".

...with this acknowledgement: I originally wanted to make the point that "transformer to transformer" power delivery was important, (and do we not all still believe that?) but within the context of the original post, I should have said that the neighborhood transformer to the wall socket was important; what comes after the wall socket is, of course, up to the individual. IF the household wiring back to the neighborhood transformer is suitable for the electrical demands of the equipment--we're left with whether a voodoo outlet can make an audible difference compared to what would be sold as a "high quality" outlet in the $5--$15 price range. The examples would be the $5 USA-made outlets I bought several years ago; or the ~$11 "hospital grade" outlet mentioned in a prior post in this thread.

It's not fair to compare a new, hundred-dollar outlet to some worn-out piece of crap; or even a new-but-fragile-and-skimpy Chinese "builder grade" outlet; either of which probably won't grip the prongs of the cord appropriately.

I believe that what happens on the primary side of the amplifier transformer is less important (but not UN-important especially regarding voltage drop and RFI) than what happens on the secondary side, through the speaker voice coils, and back to the secondary side.



I appreciate you, DK. I don't always agree with you, but you make me analyze my own thoughts and I'm better for that.

Outfitter03

Schurkey wrote: »

which is why I don't know of anyone selling "audiophile" cryogenic, Tice-impregnated house wiring, circuit breakers, etc. (Yet...I maybe just invented a new way to screw audiophiles.)

Now you do! VH audio Cryo'd Romex

http://www.vhaudio.com/wire.html

10 Gauge. Actually not such a crazy idea if running a new circuit.

DarqueKnight

Schurkey wrote: »

Yup. But the original post wasn't asking about power filters, he was asking about outlets--recepticles.

I wasn't aware that you were the only one allowed to bring in other power-related subjects to the thread:

Schurkey wrote: »

My amps are on dedicated circuits (and therefore dedicated circuit breakers) using 25 feet of 10-gauge copper wire from breaker to outlet.

Schurkey wrote: »

...it is FRIGGIN' POINTLESS to pay insane amounts of money for voodoo outlets and "power cords".

Everyone's idea of "insane amounts of money is different". What is insane to you may be trivial to someone else.

Schurkey wrote: »

IF the household wiring back to the neighborhood transformer is suitable for the electrical demands of the equipment--we're left with whether a voodoo outlet can make an audible difference compared to what would be sold as a "high quality" outlet in the $5--$15 price range.

Household wiring back to the transformer is suitable for the basic power demands of audio and video equipment. When you get into higher performance audio and video equipment, some power conditioning is required. Again, this was not told to me through a marketing brochure from a company selling high end AC power tweaks, but by two different local power company employees, one a manager and one an engineer.

Some people would say it is pointless to spend money for new house wiring and new circuit breakers when you are just going to have the same dirty, voltage-fluctuating power flowing through them. I had the power company come to my home and provide a quote for a dedicated transformer. They provided the quote, but they also said that power conditioning devices, particularly an AC regenerator, between the wall and my equipment would be a higher performance, more reasonable and more cost effective solution.

"Ordinary" electrical outlets can contribute to power line noise through impurities in the metal conductors and the energy storage (dielectric) effects of the outlet housing material. A thick aluminum faceplate can provide shielding against environmental noise. Of course, depending on one's ears, equipment and power quality, there may be no audible difference between a common household receptacle and an audio grade receptacle.

As I said before, reasonably priced alternatives are available in every power product category. As people progress to more higher resolving (and expensive) audio and video equipment, more aggressive (and expensive) power delivery equipment may be required.

Schurkey wrote: »

Most folks will not upgrade the house wiring to accommodate their audiophile desires; house wiring has to be done by licensed professionals and must meet "code"; which is why I don't know of anyone selling "audiophile" cryogenic, Tice-impregnated house wiring, circuit breakers, etc. (Yet...I maybe just invented a new way to screw audiophiles.)

Cardas sells audio grade house wiring and Isoclean sells audio grade breaker boxes.

I've never understood the hostility toward certain high end audio performance tweaks. The companies making such tweaks don't force anyone to buy their products. I also don't understand how some people can wish death on high end audio companies because of what they sell, then bow down and give praise and thousands of dollars per year to a tobacco company.

Ern Dog

My Porter Port arrived over the weekend and I am blown away about how much of a difference it is making. This is NOT a subtle difference and I gained about a 25% improvement. No s@#t! This is the best $36 I've ever spent on my rig. Check it: http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?powrdist&1309142334&/Porter-Port-20-Amp-Porter-Port

DarqueKnight

How do you know you are not imagining things?

Ern Dog

Lol, because I trust my ears

DarqueKnight

What difference(s) do you hear with the Porter Port?

BlueFox

Good thread. I have been thinking of upgrading the receptacle on my 1958 wiring, and these comments seem to indicate it might be worthwhile. I have done power cords, ICs, speaker cables, vibration isolation, and they all made audible, positive improvements. So why not the receptacle?

Side note: Three years ago I had the outside panel upgraded to 200 amp. Nothing inside was changed. No wiring was changed. Only the cable from the power line to the top of the panel, the panel, and all the circuit breakers were changed. Just doing this made an obvious improvement to the power. Before the upgrade, when the refrigerator kicked on, or the washing machine ran, some lights would flicker. Now they are solid. I am sure this 'better' power is also helping the audio.