Mod Thread - Taylo Reference II

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,755
edited May 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Alright --

I have already gutted one speaker...

Here are the design goals --

External crossovers for the midbass and tweeter. Crossovers will be mounted to the sub cabinet - lined with dynamat and isolated from the cabinet itself - but mounted there none the less

Direct wire the tweeter from the amp - instead of going through three sets of binding post (See drawing)

Line enclosures with no-rez

Tweeter network will have Clarity MR, Eagle resistor and Mundorf Supreme 20 watt

Midbass network will be Clarity SA, mundorf supreme

Diffraction be gone

All terminal cups will be aluminum plates from Dayton -- the middle and bottom post will have the top terminal holes plugged since single terminals cant be used.

All binding post will be 99% copper, gold plated -- insulated (approx 32 post will be needed)

Ty is building 2" thick bases for these instead of the rinky dink 1" bases they had

Should be fun!
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    There is a very large capacitor in the sub cabinet (solen) - eventually I will replace this with Clarity PX

    The notch filter that was in place stock has already been removed from the network
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    Depending on where the Solen is in the circuit, it may be fine there. I've used them in the LF section of 3 ways before and they were fine.

    Removing the notch doesn't sound like a good idea.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    I may keep the solen then...

    When we removed the notch - everyone there pretty much agreed the results were positive. You could engage it or disengage it before - but when it was "off" it seemed to still eff with the sound...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    You may like it again with better components.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Possibly - will keep it around
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,148
    edited February 2011
    Face wrote: »
    You may like it again with better components.
    Eh, I'll keep that it mind......but I doubt it. That thing really hampered the sound and it wasn't just one frequency it knocked out. It was a lot of frequencies.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    I went ahead and ordered 60 binding post -- figured I will use them eventually haha

    And I ordered four of these boxes...

    Inside of the boxes will be layered with dynamat and the underside will have two layers and nylon washers will separate it from the cab

    Also wanted to point out that since the bass cabinet is pyramid in shape - cabinet resonance is almost none.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Crossover parts are ordered...

    Mundorf Supreme, Clarity MR & SA - ohhhhh yeah.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited February 2011
    Oh wow, Trey, you are addicted to solder fumes. :smile:
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Dude it is like cocaine.

    Love it - and the difference afterwards makes it that much more exciting..

    Clarity Caps are the ****. Plain and simple.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited February 2011
    I know...I know...I was like you at one time. LOL

    You'll even like better when you clean the PCB with the 100% alcohol for the solder flux, etc.

    Anyway, it's probably time to get a solder fume exhaust extractor fan before you do a lot of damage to yourself.

    I got one myself this one and I never solder without it running again. You could probably find one easier and cheaper on the fleabay but this is what I got.

    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7331
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Thanks for the suggestion - one is on the way!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    I opened up the bass cabinets on these again today and I have questions

    The bottom set of posts essentially activates the crossover in the bass cabinet to low pass the bass cabinet and high pass the midbass.

    The top post is supposed to be a direct wire to the tweeter.

    There are two sets of wires connected to the top posts - the first set indeed does go straight to the top post of the middle set of posts. The second set of wires connects to a 150uf capacitor.

    My question is

    If I were to leave a set of bi-wire post on the bottom and jumper them together would that circuit be essentially the same and I could still run straight to the tweeter still. There should not be a 150uf capacitor anywhere in the same connection to the tweeter right? Would that not affect the sound??
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,148
    edited February 2011
    Oh, man. If candyliquor35m was here....he could answer your question about the inline cap to the tweeter.

    Does that answer your question?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    No... LOL

    Tom - when you hear these speakers again your mouth will drop. They are getting top notch treatment -- ohhh yeah
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »
    I opened up the bass cabinets on these again today and I have questions

    The bottom set of posts essentially activates the crossover in the bass cabinet to low pass the bass cabinet and high pass the midbass.

    The top post is supposed to be a direct wire to the tweeter.

    There are two sets of wires connected to the top posts - the first set indeed does go straight to the top post of the middle set of posts. The second set of wires connects to a 150uf capacitor.

    My question is

    If I were to leave a set of bi-wire post on the bottom and jumper them together would that circuit be essentially the same and I could still run straight to the tweeter still. There should not be a 150uf capacitor anywhere in the same connection to the tweeter right? Would that not affect the sound??

    any thoughts??
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Ern Dog
    Ern Dog Posts: 2,237
    edited February 2011
    Trey- At this rate you're gonna have to open up your own mod shop!

    Can't wait to hear a review about how this one sounds after the mods.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    Ern - I am going to get you to modify yours before it is over.

    And when you do - you will buy me dinner for a year in return to show thanks! ;)

    Your speakers can sound that much better brother - no exageration
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Ern Dog
    Ern Dog Posts: 2,237
    edited February 2011
    Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »
    Ern - I am going to get you to modify yours before it is over.

    And when you do - you will buy me dinner for a year in return to show thanks! ;)

    Your speakers can sound that much better brother - no exageration


    Lol! Dude I was so close to doing it last month, then I spent all my money upgrading my amp and pre so I had to put the speaker mod on the back burner :biggrin:

    My time will come and when it does I'm sure I'll **** bricks and say "why didn't I do this sooner." :cool:
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    I am also going to dynamat the bass drivers basket -- looks like a stamped steel basket on those woofers - so that should help a little bit..
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited February 2011
    I received confirmation from Ty today that I could detach the tweeter from those leads and just use a jumper between the bottom and top post for the bass...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    Well - project is under way, parts are rolling in...

    I am waiting on my handy dandy air filter before I get into soldering but I went ahead and set up the tweeter network with that big ol Clarity MR in the path ---

    Waiting on tech flex, binding post and no rez

    I am going to fully mod one speaker then invite some folks over to listen to the fully modded vs stock and get some thoughts...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    Nothing soldered yet - just a mock up...

    the wires going between the woofer crossovers will be tech flexed together and glued into place inside the boxes - should look slick
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    Here is the woofer network wired up except for post -- I think it looks pretty slick personally.. :-P
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    Well I am going to add refinishing these to the list - I have enough left over stuff from the monitors to do with little to no money..
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited March 2011
    megasat16 wrote: »
    I know...I know...I was like you at one time. LOL

    You'll even like better when you clean the PCB with the 100% alcohol for the solder flux, etc.

    Anyway, it's probably time to get a solder fume exhaust extractor fan before you do a lot of damage to yourself.

    I got one myself this one and I never solder without it running again. You could probably find one easier and cheaper on the fleabay but this is what I got.

    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7331

    Thanks for this link. I will be getting one of these as well.

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
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  • Poee7R
    Poee7R Posts: 904
    edited March 2011
    Question, shouldnt the inductors be at a different orientation from each other?

    Looks great btw.


    Dave
    Once again we meet at last.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    I have been told if they are around 6-7" apart it becomes a non-factor. Which these are - but I am basically replicating the original crossovers but with better parts
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited March 2011
    so,, have you listened to them yet?
    Appears that you are really enjoying your hobby.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,755
    edited March 2011
    My entire rig (Pre, Amps, CDP, MIT cables) are at Odyssey Audio right now...

    Wont go into details - but needless to say I dont have a rig that functions.

    :(

    And I am waiting on binding post - like always. Same story as my last project..
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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