Comp's MM6501

KaosTsoc

arun1963 wrote: »

You're thinking about the 8" in the rear doors cause you want more bass than what you heard in DSkips car.

To get that, you don't need an extra pair of 8" in the rear. Speakers located behind you will always pull your stage back and cause phasing, cancellation and smearing issues. In a home 2ch setup are the speakers ever placed behind you? The only time you will have speakers behind you are in a HT setup. Here the media is recorded for 5.1 or 7.1 etc. You're listening to audio cd's which are recorded for 2ch's. Left and right. You only need 1 pair of components and a sub for the low end frequencies which your 6.5" mid driver cannot hit.

Now, if you were to listen to DSkips car again, with the sub/mid xover set at 63hz i/o 50hz and with say 80hz set flat, chances are you would not feel like you're lacking for bass. You would lose out on mid bass and midrange clarity, but you would have more bass. Different people like different types of sound, DSkips car is setup for the way he likes to listen. There is no issue if you like your sound with more bass. I'm just saying that you don't have to add additional drivers to get what you want.

Two things to remember with sound,
1. Everything is a trade off. You get something at the cost of something else.
2. Less is always more.

Ok. Thanks for that. I did not think about it like that. Hmmmm...... So, I guess to put this to bed for now. All I need is the one set comps in front, and the two 12's in the back, and I should be set. Thanks for that.

Ok, now if ok I would like to change gears to subs. I have a post out here about the different types of subs I was wanting to to go with. In the list I had Polk:

Polk Audio SR124-DVC

Diamond Audio D612-12" dvc

JBL GTO1214D

Ascendant Audio Chaos 12" dvc

Now these are just some of the subs that I have been looking at. So, tell me what you think, thoughts, and suggestions. I am thinking of going ported as well.


Thanks.

catch22atplay

SR124-DVC for sound quality i say.

KaosTsoc

catch22atplay wrote: »

SR124-DVC for sound quality i say.

Well I am wanting to kind of do both worlds. SQ, and SPL, I would say almost 50/50 give or take depending on how I feel. The SR's are very good Dskip has a 10, and in a sealed box, and it sounded really good. So, I agree.


Thanks.

KaosTsoc

I forgot to include that.. Should I go with a ploy, or mixed foam surround, or rubber surround on the sub???



Thanks.

polkfan826

SivaNevets - you have similar system that I want to install in my SUV. Did you consider bi-amping the MM6501's? thnx You can PM me.

Vital

Passive crossover that comes with MM6501 is not bi-amp'able so unless you have an active x-over in either your headunit, amp or another external x-over you can't bi-amp MM6501.
Basicaly you have to get a different x-over to bi-amp.

Vital

BTW - this was mentioned by a member on diyma, you might wanna look into that.
According to him 2.7Ohms is "done" by MM's crossover since woofer is 2Ohm and tweeter is 4Ohm. You need to make sure you o-ver will be able to work with both ohm ratings (if it's true to begine with lol, call up Polk, they should help you out on this)

KaosTsoc

Glad you brought that up. If the MM woofer with out the crossover is 2ohm, and the tweets are 4. I am pretty sure that the the PDX F6 will be able to handle both loads. The specs show the amp is 2ohm, and 4ohm capable. I wont be using the passive xover though, and will be going active, since my HU has a three way 13 band crossover on it. I will call polk support to double check. Thanks again for the new info.



Thanks.

emy

mm6501 is best known for its mid bass..with sufficient power and i want bi-amp MM6501.I have an active x-over in either your head
unit