Computer Build Advice
Comments
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maximillian wrote: »Are the Intel SSD's as reliable as a regular HD? I don't want it failing even in 3 years. If they aren't, then I will probably skip SSD for now.maximillian wrote: »Another question. I just looked at the power supply inside my case. It is a 550W ATX 20+4 pin. I guess it isn't older than I thought. It also has one connection for a SATA drive which is all I need. I see 2 potential issues though. First, the CPU connector has only 4 pins and my MB has 8. Second, the +12V power is only 25 Amps. Are these going to be an issue with the new MB or should I buy a new one? Is there anything else I'm missing that would prevent me from using this supply with the new MB?
I know the power supply is old. However, I have barely used this PC in the past 4-5 years. Other than dust there isn't a lot of hours on the PS. -
You'll want a new power supply and I would even suggest larger than a 550. I would say 650, or 750. I'm using an NZXT model to match the NZXT Phantom I built.
With side window cut in
The challenging part of building is the cable management.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
Very few people without arrays of hard drives or large SLI'd video cards actually need those monster power supplies that show up on every flashy gamer website.
Your board probably doesn't actually need an 8-pin power supply--check the manual. And what's wrong with 25A on the 12+ rail? I'm running three hard drives, two CD drives, an OC'd 3.3 Phenom X4, a really hot 9800GTX, and four fans off a power supply like that. No voltage issues or crashes ever.
Antec, Seasonic, and Corsair are good PS companies. OCZ, Coolermaster, Rosewill are the next step down but plenty serviceable. Just avoid cheap ones or ones with bad reviews. -
maximillian wrote: »Another question. I just looked at the power supply inside my case. It is a 550W ATX 20+4 pin. I guess it isn't older than I thought. It also has one connection for a SATA drive which is all I need. I see 2 potential issues though. First, the CPU connector has only 4 pins and my MB has 8. Second, the +12V power is only 25 Amps. Are these going to be an issue with the new MB or should I buy a new one? Is there anything else I'm missing that would prevent me from using this supply with the new MB?
I know the power supply is old. However, I have barely used this PC in the past 4-5 years. Other than dust there isn't a lot of hours on the PS.
That Ps should be fine. The mb only requires the 4pin, it has an 8pin connection if youre running a large video card setup (Sli/Crossfire), or multiple drives, and you need more power to the board, if i remember correctly its 150watt per 4pin. Also 25 amps on the +12 rail should be enough for your usage.
In this case, if it isnt broke, dont fix it.
DaveOnce again we meet at last. -
Build is complete - mainly.
I decided to go with most of the parts mentioned above, but changed the following:
- WD 2TB HD
- Intel 80GB SSD primary drive
- Corsair GS600 power supply
The 2TB drive was not that much more than the 1TB so it was a no-brainer. I put it all together and this machine is fast. Win7 boots 30 seconds and that includes BIOS screen and me entering my password. I transferred a 1GB file from the SSD to the HD in about 6 seconds. Everything is very responsive. I downloaded "HL2 - The Orange Box" since the HL series is one of my all-time favorite games (didn't have TF2 or the expansions). The games play very smoothly. I still need to find a better benchmark software. Suggestions?
Initially I decided to keep the case and DVD-ROM. However, in retrospect it wasn't really worth it. I decided to order another DVD-ROM for $20 from Newegg. This will allow me to get rid of the PATA ribbon cable that decreases airflow. I added a 120mm fan to the front of the case for better airflow but looking at Sherardp's clean wire management and component layout it would have been better to just buy a new case. For now I am using it though. Bit of a shame that all but the PC case was scrapped. I might as well have not torn apart the old computer and tried to see if someone wanted it for general computing. I guess I can always put it back together once I get another case.
Thank you to all who helped out with this little project. -
Pictures or it didn't happen...
You should send your ribbon cable to the Smithsonian
Was the graphics card snug or do you have plenty of room?
Ordering the new DVD drive is a no brainer for the cost. $20 for a 20x or 22x drive makes things so much better than dealing with the old. I sure as hell hope you didn't install the 3.5"!! :cheesygrin:
Enjoy!Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
I'll take pics tonight. Admitedly the wire management is a mess since the power supply has tons of cables. I didn't know what to do with them so I tucked them at the bottom of the drive cage for now. I should get the DVD burner tonight so picts will look a little better.
I threw away the floppy and the my old CD-burner (had installed besides the DVD-burner). Also threw away many older cables and other misc. junk in my computer parts drawer. Fun.
The graphics card isn't big so it fits without any issue. The CPU and GPU temps seem cool enough. I will post more info tonight. Don't hold it to me since my new {human} baby prevent me from playing with this new baby for any real length of time. -
So you through away the old 3.5" floppy for your new PC baby... i hope you didn't throw away the floppy on the Human Baby as well. :eek:
When it comes to PSU's, modular is the way to go but it costs more. Just cut the wires and use a little electrical tape on the ends...haha
There is nothing more satisfying that throwing away old PC parts from the DIY junk drawer. Especially ribbons, old CD and Floppy drives, modular cables to, old CPU bezels, 120mm fans that are well past their prime...etc. Have fun!Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
Here's a pic of the internals. Again, the power cabling is a little cramped. There used to be a 2.5" device cage (for floppies and HD's) underneath the 3.5" cage. I removed it for better airflow. I replaced the front 80mm fan with a 120mm fan since it allows better airflow and is quieter. I used a dremel to remove metal material in front of the fan and then added a mesh filter. Yeah, the rubber bands holding it on aren't great but they work for now.
Not visible is the SSD's holder which is a fan tray with three 40mm fans. I inserted a 10 Ohm power resistor to drop their voltage to 10V but they are still very loud. They are by far the loudest component. I will have to find a better solution.
The SATA DVD drive came today and it's mounted at the top. Down afterwards is the WD 2TB HD and then the SSD just below that.
The red/black wire that seems to disappear to the left of the screen is power for the custom panel lighting.
I tried the free version of 3Dmark11 and wasn't too happy with the results. I can only select the Performance test and only get 6 FPS for the initial videos. Is this normal? I know this setup isn't the latest gaming rig but I thought it would do better than that. Anyone recommend a better benchmarking software?
Comments are welcome.
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Very solid build, but play around with the cable management when time permits. You'll want that case to breathe as much as possible. If your ok with tools I would cut holes for the power supply cables where you want them. You could use a dremel to get things as perfect as possible, then use weather striping to make your cuts look pretty. Afterward, pull your cables, zip tie the others back.
Also check your mobo manual and see if it supports dual channel mem, and if you slotted the RAM accordingly. I sometimes skip over a slot. YMMV. Another suggestion would be to zip tie another fan on the other side of your CPU cooler and run a push/pull configuration. Then go for the gold and OC the heck out of that CPU. All suggestions of course, more options should you choose to play. Nice build. SSD is the shiznit right? Enjoy it bro.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
If I were you, I would just disconnect the fans on the tray you are using for the SSD. SSD's don't generate heat like hard drives, so they really don't need the cooling. If the 2TB is one of the greenpower drives like I'm thinking of, they also run very cool. In which case, the case fans should be able to cool it plenty fine.
At any rate, good choice of components. :cheesygrin: -
BeefJerky.... you are correct. The 2TB is the green drive. I will try to disconnect the fans and run without cooling to the front. I have some thermocouples that I can run to some spots and monitor the temperature. If it runs cool enough then I'll pull the fans. Good call.
Sherardp.... I'm not sure I can run the cables any better. There's a lot of unused power cables. From my pic you can see some of the power cables looped underneath the drive cage. What you can't see is that half of the loop is behind this cage on the other side of the case (there's 1/2 in. of dead space there). Also, some of the cables are longer than they need to be but not long enough to get them out of the way (like the MB and CPU cables). I used like 20 zip ties just to secure them the way they are.
OC'ing could be for the future. For now it runs my games just fine. And the SSD is great. I'm thinking of putting one in my wife's laptop since her laptop is slowed down by HD activity. I hope these things last. -
Your cable management may not look that neat, but it looks fine for cooling. The area between the front intake, the back fan, CPU, and PSU is wide open, with no obstructions. Should be plenty of airflow.