PSW505 Subwoofer bottoming out?

yepimonfire

*high pass

TECHNOKID

kuntasensei wrote: »

You would think that Polk would build in a filter to the amp to prevent port-unloading at the tune of their enclosure, especially with it being slot-loaded. If they don't, then that seems to be a serious design flaw considering these subs will be used for home theater (where the expectation is 20Hz and higher and most Blu-rays seem to troll that low lately). I think once he gets a high-pass filter in place near 25Hz, his issues will probably go away. Still, it's a shame that anyone has to go to that extent.

The PSW505 is NOT defective but is a VINTAGE sub which was GOOD for the movie requirements of that time and is very good musically.

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

I wouldn't have it replace the PSW505, but if it can go down around 15Hz, it would be able to add some more oomph. I could use my dad's stereo amp, if I can persuade him, it has 100 watts RMS per channel. If not my dad's amp, would the sub's amp be able?

yepimonfire wrote: »

go into your receivers setup and reduce the volume of the LFE, not the sub, just the LFE. in the long run i would get a second identical sub. i still don't understand why it's unloading unless your running it hot, i'm using a PSW10 and i have yet to hand it more then it can carry. and it can play it, just not at a high volume. i also doubt -15dB on your receiver is 66dB, -15dB would mean during loud scenes your getting a 70w gain on a 100wpc receiver, that louder then 66dB, maybe 66dB during normal speech.

The running hot was discussed previously and I agree the OP should acquire a second sub when ever money allows. I also use the PSW110 which doesn't provide for that low of bottom frequency and never had any problems. The PSW10 is also a vintage but I think ther ''porting'' wasn't set as critically (still, I heard-read some porting issues). The PSW110, the 111 and the 125 are newer models than the above vintages mentioned and yet I haven't heard or read about any issues however, the newer serie (DSW) are probably a better choice for movies of today.

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

No, but it shouldn't even be bottoming out on that. If the sub can't play 4hz content why let it?

Exactly, as you previously mentioned havig a filter at roughly 23 - 25 hz is your best bet.
You can NOT ask for something that was NOT created for that low to play that low without distorsion. Specs are usually boosted for most and you are even trying to accomplish lower than what it was created for!

yepimonfire wrote: »

good point, perhaps the sub may be defective? if not, then like others have said i would say use a mild (like first order 6dB/octave high pass) this will allow you to retain a very mild amount of -20hz audio while keeping it at bay, on a first order that means all content an octave below 20hz will be 6dB less, a 4x power decrease, it will gradually roll off steeper as content goes lower so things like 10hz are -12dB, which is an 8x power decrease.

Again, the sub is NOT defective it accomplishes what it promise but the OP is trying to go further than its capabilities.

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

I highly doubt the SW's defective.

I'll probably go either 6dB /octave high pass, or 12dB/octave high pass. When budget allows get some Clark Synthesis modules for the real low ends.

Now, some you have to realize, butt kickers ARE NOT AUDIBLE, their main task is as the name refers to; ''shaking your Butt'' meaning VIBRATION NOT SOUND!!! If you go for such without understanding its purpose, like the PSW505 it is gone a be a disappointment for you.

Cheers!
TK

xxmastermushxx

Now, some you have to realize, butt kickers ARE NOT AUDIBLE, their main task is as the name refers to; ''shaking your Butt'' meaning VIBRATION NOT SOUND!!! If you go for such without understanding its purpose, like the PSW505 it is gone a be a disappointment for you.

You mean...this isn't a subwoofer?:rolleyes:
Sorry couldn't resist, I know these type of devices aren't audible. I was thinking though, if I roll my sub off at 23Hz and add a Clark Synthesis TST209 Tactile Transducer, I could have the feeling frequencies of 15Hz. I believe there's some places where I could go to test 'em out. We'll see, I haven't fully made up my mind yet. I still have to calibrate with the mic/camera stand that's being shipped to me, and look into building the High Pass Filter.

xxmastermushxx

Hello, I have a question about the front R/L speakers. I have the DQ-10's around 6.5-7.5 feet away from each other. When playing a movie or game, where the sound is only on one side, that side becomes localizable, and you can tell that the sound is coming from THAT speaker. If someone is on the right side of the screen, and they talk, then there voice will only sound like it's coming from the right speaker, and not seem connected to the picture. Do you know what I mean?

Any advice into setting up front R/L speakers?

Thanks

kuntasensei

Well, you have a choice: Put the speakers closer to the TV... or get a bigger TV.

TECHNOKID

If this isn't too much of a pain for you, you could use a ''Y'' at the AVR R-L inputs whic will lead sound to both right and left speakers (or maybe some sort of mono-stereo selector box.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=168130

check parts express maybe?

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchhelp.cfm?search=stereo-mono%20selector%20switch&CFID=27602947&CFTOKEN=59731828

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

Well, you have a choice: Put the speakers closer to the TV... or get a bigger TV.

It's a 52" Samsung, when I get a career that can support my interests, I'm gonna get a projector, and make a true home theater; however, for now, 52" will have to do.

If I move them closer will the image that's being "painted" become blended together more? I have around two feet of space between the speakers and the TV.

If this isn't too much of a pain for you, you could use a ''Y'' at the AVR R-L inputs whic will lead sound to both right and left speakers (or maybe some sort of mono-stereo selector box.

This is a cool idea, but I don't believe it to be necessary. Why would you want to do that anyway? It would change how some content was supposed to be heard.

I'm just curious if this is just standard, or if it's just a matter of speaker positioning.

kuntasensei

It has a lot to do with the way movies are mixed. They're meant to steer action to the left or right side of the screen. But if you have your mains too far from your display, the effect doesn't hold up. I used to run into that when I had a 43" RPTV because the only place I could put my speakers was several feet to either side. Of course, now it doesn't matter because I have a 100" screen with a projector and my speakers are at the edges of the screen... so it totally works.

It's personal preference. You'll get better stereo imaging for music with them spaced the way you have them now and toed in slightly... but it can be off-putting with movies. Typical Dolby-dictated placement is 22-30 degrees from your center speaker at the listening position. It's really up to you.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

It has a lot to do with the way movies are mixed. They're meant to steer action to the left or right side of the screen. But if you have your mains too far from your display, the effect doesn't hold up. I used to run into that when I had a 43" RPTV because the only place I could put my speakers was several feet to either side. Of course, now it doesn't matter because I have a 100" screen with a projector and my speakers are at the edges of the screen... so it totally works.

It's personal preference. You'll get better stereo imaging for music with them spaced the way you have them now and toed in slightly... but it can be off-putting with movies. Typical Dolby-dictated placement is 22-30 degrees from your center speaker at the listening position. It's really up to you.

OK I'll give it a try, the DQ-10's are being used mainly for movies anyway.

xxmastermushxx

OK, camera/mic stand came...finally. It's small and perfect, I don't think it will interfere with the very high frequencies too much. I can remove the handle too, and there's a bubble measurement on the top to make sure it's flat. The mic fits perfectly on the top, here's a picture: Camera Mic stand.pdf

I'm going to do a calibration as soon as the house is quiet...if I can get it quiet. :rolleyes:

kuntasensei

That stand ought to do nicely! Note: Be out of the room when the test tones play. Between each position, set the mic up, walk out of the room with the remote in your hand and start the next tone from there if possible. Let us know how it works out!

Did you reposition the DQ-10s?

TECHNOKID

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

OK, camera/mic stand came...finally. It's small and perfect, I don't think it will interfere with the very high frequencies too much. I can remove the handle too, and there's a bubble measurement on the top to make sure it's flat. The mic fits perfectly on the top, here's a picture: Camera Mic stand.pdf

I'm going to do a calibration as soon as the house is quiet...if I can get it quiet. :rolleyes:

Looks like that stand will be perfect for the job Let's see what kind of results you get now. I guess your room SQ must be somewhat improving by now, any improvement with the sub original problem?

xxmastermushxx

That stand ought to do nicely! Note: Be out of the room when the test tones play. Between each position, set the mic up, walk out of the room with the remote in your hand and start the next tone from there if possible. Let us know how it works out!

The stand does very well, and is very maneuverable.

I try to be out of the room, but the way the receiver is positioned there isn't a way to aim the remote at it. The remote is IR not RF, other wise it'd be A LOT easier. I crouch behind the couch (tongue twister if I ever saw one) and aim the remote underneath, and then leave after the first speaker's tone has finished.

Since the tripod can only go down to 16" it was a slight problem. Ear height for me is at 38" when sitting in the couch. When doing position three, where the mic is on the small table in-between the couch and chair, the height is 40-41". I know you're supposed to keep the mic's height balanced, how much of a problem could this have?

Did you reposition the DQ-10s?

Yeah I did, I tried moving them closer together which didn't seem to have any major affect. It's not a big deal, I'll just deal with it.

My main problem with these speaker is when you're sitting in any other location other then the Main Seating Position. If your next to the Main Seating Position, those speakers, whether the left or right side, will sound louder and make the image off balance. I thought that if I made the sound field wider by spreading out the speakers (fronts) it would help. I tried moving them closer (fronts) to solve the other problem, which didn't help. I can deal with the localization of sound in the front, what I can't deal with is sound being off balanced. For example, when on the Xbox 360 dashboard you can go up and down on tabs looking at different content, a bleep sound plays every time you go either up or down. If in the Main Seating Position, it sounds correct, if your sitting on the right or left side next to the Main Seating Position, it will sound as if it's mainly coming from THAT front speaker. Do you have any idea of correcting this?

xxmastermushxx

TECHNOKID wrote: »

Looks like that stand will be perfect for the job Let's see what kind of results you get now. I guess your room SQ must be somewhat improving by now, any improvement with the sub original problem?

I need to resolve some slight problems, I also have a TV replacement screen in the room which needs to be moved out. I'm just waiting for a tech to replace the screen...it's a long story. As far as the sub goes, I'll let you know when I do. When I'm happy with what I got, I'll let you know, and we can go from there.

Thanks to all for your help.

kuntasensei

It's fine to have the height off on that position. It's actually not a bad idea to get readings from different heights in the area as you do it anyway.

As for the front imaging, that may just be an issue with those Dahlquists. Plus, as close as you are to them, it's going to be hard to avoid. All you can do is work with what you have.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

It's fine to have the height off on that position. It's actually not a bad idea to get readings from different heights in the area as you do it anyway.

As for the front imaging, that may just be an issue with those Dahlquists. Plus, as close as you are to them, it's going to be hard to avoid. All you can do is work with what you have.

Yeah, that was the conclusion I had come down to. I just wanted to see your thoughts.

The DQ-10's will hopefully be replaced with speaker actually designed for cinema. While the DQ-10's offer great stereo imaging for music, I believe they were designed to be spread out further, and fill the listening room. The best I can give 'em is seven or so feet. My dad's stereo cabinet where the DQ-10's used to be was 6.5 feet, he kept the DQ-10's 8-9 feet apart, if not more.

I've noticed that modern HT gear is aligned with speakers vertically, not horizontally like the DQ-10's. What purpose does this service?

Edit: As far as the subwoofer, I listened to the last part of LOTR: The Two Towers, when the explosives detonated and blew a huge whole in Helms Deep the subwoofer handled it beautifully, there was no bottoming out; however, I don't know how much stress that scene was for it.

xxmastermushxx

Quick question, Audyssey sets the fronts crossover at 40hz, I then go to the manual setup and change it to 80hz crossover, would I have to change the receiver mode to manual then to use the 80hz crossover? I can pick between Audyssey, Flat, Bypass L/R, Manual. I just thought of this last night, and wanted clarification.

Thanks

xxmastermushxx

I know I'm reviving a somewhat old thread; however, I just wanted to let you guys know how the PSW505's doing...well, it's doing absolutely great! I repositioned the sub behind and to the right, near the piano in the corner. I tried it in-between the blue chair and main seating position which didn't yield satisfactory results, it for one was localizable and overall obnoxious.

The corner has boosted the sub's output substantially, the scene in LOTR when the ring drops doesn't bottom out anymore, even at -10 dB it didn't...I didn't try going higher, but I wouldn't watch any higher than that anyway.

Dynamic EQ is still creating problems with the sub, I couldn't care less though. I like Dynamic EQ off now, I tried it again and didn't like the boosted bass...it just seemed too bassy and heavy.

There is a slight problem I'd like to ask about, the sub is somewhat localizable. When I play a 50Hz test tone on the sub I hear more emphasis on the right ear, which is the side that the SW's located...could the subwoofer being hitting the right ear before the left? What makes this a SLIGHT problem is that, when I actually watch a movie with deep bass i.e. an explosion, I hear it all around. It's not that much of a problem, just thought I'd bring it up.

Thanks

TECHNOKID

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

I know I'm reviving a somewhat old thread; however, I just wanted to let you guys know how the PSW505's doing...well, it's doing absolutely great! I repositioned the sub behind and to the right, near the piano in the corner. I tried it in-between the blue chair and main seating position which didn't yield satisfactory results, it for one was localizable and overall obnoxious.

The corner has boosted the sub's output substantially, the scene in LOTR when the ring drops doesn't bottom out anymore, even at -10 dB it didn't...I didn't try going higher, but I wouldn't watch any higher than that anyway.

Dynamic EQ is still creating problems with the sub, I couldn't care less though. I like Dynamic EQ off now, I tried it again and didn't like the boosted bass...it just seemed too bassy and heavy.

There is a slight problem I'd like to ask about, the sub is somewhat localizable. When I play a 50Hz test tone on the sub I hear more emphasis on the right ear, which is the side that the SW's located...could the subwoofer being hitting the right ear before the left? What makes this a SLIGHT problem is that, when I actually watch a movie with deep bass i.e. an explosion, I hear it all around. It's not that much of a problem, just thought I'd bring it up.

Thanks

Nice and appreciated you take the time to report the improvement :cool:

IMHO, the bass localization is more likely due to the location of your sub. Put your sub at your sitting position and redo the crawling around in order to find the area where the bass is optimum. Mark that position and that is where your sub should.

Cheers!
TK

xxmastermushxx

TECHNOKID wrote: »

Nice and appreciated you take the time to report the improvement :cool:

IMHO, the bass localization is more likely due to the location of your sub. Put your sub at your sitting position and redo the crawling around in order to find the area where the bass is optimum. Mark that position and that is where your sub should.

Cheers!
TK

Trust me, I've done that several times. I've tried the positioning it where the Guitar Hero drums are, but that whole wall makes a loud racket...even with the port a foot away. Like I said, it's not horrible, if I don't try to locate it I never notice.

kuntasensei

Something you can try if you still want to use DynamicEQ: DynamicEQ's boost is determined by how far away the volume control is from reference level/0. Newer AVR's have a control that lets you shift the reference point just for Dynamic EQ up in 5dB increments for material mastered at different levels than movies. However, you can simulate this by turning down all your channel trims equally. For instance, if you turn down all of your channel trims by 3dB, reference level will now actually be +3 on the volume... but because you're turning it up higher to get your normal listening level, DynamicEQ is applying less change in the equalization (because it gradually moves toward NO change at reference/0). Just something you could try.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

Something you can try if you still want to use DynamicEQ: DynamicEQ's boost is determined by how far away the volume control is from reference level/0. Newer AVR's have a control that lets you shift the reference point just for Dynamic EQ up in 5dB increments for material mastered at different levels than movies. However, you can simulate this by turning down all your channel trims equally. For instance, if you turn down all of your channel trims by 3dB, reference level will now actually be +3 on the volume... but because you're turning it up higher to get your normal listening level, DynamicEQ is applying less change in the equalization (because it gradually moves toward NO change at reference/0). Just something you could try.

Yeah, you asked about this earlier. I didn't know what you were talking about I guess, and answered no. In truth I can change the reference level of Dynamic EQ, would you recommended 5, 10, or 15dB?

kuntasensei

Ideally, you would leave it on 0. But if that causes issues with bottoming, try bumping it up. The higher you set it, the less bass/surround presence gets boosted as you're further away from reference. Just something to try if you like the effect of DynamicEQ but your sub's having issues with it.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

Ideally, you would leave it on 0. But if that causes issues with bottoming, try bumping it up. The higher you set it, the less bass/surround presence gets boosted as you're further away from reference. Just something to try if you like the effect of DynamicEQ but your sub's having issues with it.

Yeah, the sub just can't handle reference...well, in such a big room. I'll try what you say, and see if I like it.

xxmastermushxx

Just looked on Newegg at the Polk Audio monitor 30's, only $100! That's with tax and shipping as well...I'm regretting buying the RM6751's. If I later get the Monitor 30's and use those as surrounds, and put the RM6751's as rears, would the odd crossover from Monitor 30's 55Hz, to RM6751's 110Hz affect how the PSW505 sub outputs?

I'm probably going to be moving soon, (family) and maybe I can get a room that's smaller, and has better acoustics.

Me and my dad have been waiting to get are selves a good center, and was wondering if you guys could clear a few things up. I was originally looking at the Polk Audio CSi3 Center Speaker, but it's been discontinued so I don't think we'll be getting that model. I've been looking at the Polk Audio CS20, here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B0018QNYSU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1278811501&sr=8-1

One other thing I have a question about, I've been looking at small stereo amps to drive rear surrounds speakers. I've come across these, let me know what you think: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230493421175&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Since speakers (especially surrounds) don't need more than 10-20 watts to run well, I thought an RMS of 30 watts would be fine. I'm not sure if it's 000.5% THD at 30 watts though.

I know a lot of my questions have nothing to do with the sub, mainly my whole system, but you guys have been so helpful, didn't want to bother going over to AVS Forums.

THANKS!

kuntasensei

I'm using Monitor 30s as height channels. They're GREAT little speakers. I'm running them with an 80Hz crossover, but Audyssey detected them as 50Hz so they have decent in-room extension.

The differing crossovers may cause a problem with cohesion of the rear soundstage, primarily because the RM6751s need to be crossed over higher than 80Hz. If they were all below 80Hz, you'd probably be okay... but there could be a noticeable difference. Still, it wouldn't hurt to try.

The CS20 is a fine little center channel. You would likely be very pleased with it. For that matter, if your listening levels are typically lower than -15dB from reference, a CS10 would probably work fairly well for you. You might also look at Polk's refurb'd store on eBay: http://stores.ebay.com/Polk-Audio-Direct

I wouldn't do that amp for rear surrounds. You'd be better off just sticking to 5.1 than doing that.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

I'm using Monitor 30s as height channels. They're GREAT little speakers. I'm running them with an 80Hz crossover, but Audyssey detected them as 50Hz so they have decent in-room extension.

The differing crossovers may cause a problem with cohesion of the rear soundstage, primarily because the RM6751s need to be crossed over higher than 80Hz. If they were all below 80Hz, you'd probably be okay... but there could be a noticeable difference. Still, it wouldn't hurt to try.

The CS20 is a fine little center channel. You would likely be very pleased with it. For that matter, if your listening levels are typically lower than -15dB from reference, a CS10 would probably work fairly well for you. You might also look at Polk's refurb'd store on eBay: http://stores.ebay.com/Polk-Audio-Direct

I wouldn't do that amp for rear surrounds. You'd be better off just sticking to 5.1 than doing that.

Do you think it'd make a BIG difference if I got Monitor 30's over the RM6751's? I know surrounds are only something like 10% of a movies track.

I love the RM6751's, and they're doing a great job matching with the DQ-10's, or so it seems. Before, when I had the torn outdoor/indoor speakers, they were crossed over at 200Hz, and when playing bass or anything in them they'd sound REALLY muddy! The RM6751's were a huge improvement over that.

Me and my dad like to watch at around -10 dB or so, depends if it's just us or if the families around.

Since the center channel speaker is such an important speaker, I wanted to get something that wasn't too much, but could really boast some "power." Some of the reviews I read, people would comment "I liked the CS10, but the CS20 is just so much more!"

What type of stereo amp would you recommend to extend my system 7.1?

Thanks.

kuntasensei

Again, whether the Monitor 30s would be better depends on your normal listening level. If you're happy with the sound you have now from the RM6751s, then be happy with it. But the Monitor 30s would definitely sound better.

And if you're listening at near -10 from reference, I'd go with the CS20. I would do that before replacing your surrounds, actually, because 40-60% of the sound comes from the center with digital surround tracks.

As far as what type of stereo amp to use, you should be looking at something like this if you're wanting to do 7.1 on the cheap. However, with 7.1, the side surrounds should be directly to your sides... and if I recall correctly, your surrounds are currently behind you slightly as they should be in a 5.1 setup. If you can't place them directly to your sides with the rear surrounds at Dolby's recommended angles, I wouldn't bother. Now, if you have high ceilings and want to give your system a little more vertical sound, you could also run that pair as height channels up front. Given your current placement, you might get more out of doing that. That said, DPL-IIz Height is a subtle improvement (though I love it) and might not be worth bothering for you. Honestly, I would focus on the center channel first.

xxmastermushxx

kuntasensei wrote: »

Again, whether the Monitor 30s would be better depends on your normal listening level. If you're happy with the sound you have now from the RM6751s, then be happy with it. But the Monitor 30s would definitely sound better.

And if you're listening at near -10 from reference, I'd go with the CS20. I would do that before replacing your surrounds, actually, because 40-60% of the sound comes from the center with digital surround tracks.

As far as what type of stereo amp to use, you should be looking at something like this if you're wanting to do 7.1 on the cheap. However, with 7.1, the side surrounds should be directly to your sides... and if I recall correctly, your surrounds are currently behind you slightly as they should be in a 5.1 setup. If you can't place them directly to your sides with the rear surrounds at Dolby's recommended angles, I wouldn't bother. Now, if you have high ceilings and want to give your system a little more vertical sound, you could also run that pair as height channels up front. Given your current placement, you might get more out of doing that. That said, DPL-IIz Height is a subtle improvement (though I love it) and might not be worth bothering for you. Honestly, I would focus on the center channel first.

The center channel is what I'm working on right now, I believe we'll get the CS20, if our budget allows.

I got the surrounds because I wanted to surprise my dad, and since I have such a small budget I really didn't want to spend over $100; however, since looking at the Monitor 30's, a pair for only $100...It's human nature to want better. What's not making me REALLY regret buying the RM6751's is that the mounts/stands for the Monitor 30's would $20, 30 dollars more than the $11 dollar mounts I have.

I'm getting Clover Field this Monday, I'll see if corner placement really helped.

Thanks

mak99

xxmastermushxx wrote: »

The center channel is what I'm working on right now, I believe we'll get the CS20, if our budget allows.

I got the surrounds because I wanted to surprise my dad, and since I have such a small budget I really didn't want to spend over $100; however, since looking at the Monitor 30's, a pair for only $100...It's human nature to want better. What's not making me REALLY regret buying the RM6751's is that the mounts/stands for the Monitor 30's would $20, 30 dollars more than the $11 dollar mounts I have.

I'm getting Clover Field this Monday, I'll see if corner placement really helped.

Thanks

Late to this thread, but some good info to be read...

FWIW, previous 505 owner here, was a great sub before upgrading to dual microPro 1000's, then on to a AV123 MFW-15 (crazy choice, I know). Glad that you are happier with your 505 now since tweaking it a bit. Cloverfield will be quite the workout for the sub, I just rented this movie about a month ago on Blu-ray, and thought the MFW was gonna do some damage to the house! WOTW is equally as impressive, as you have already mentioned.

Regarding center channel speakers, I'd recommend buying the best that you can afford, as the other poster noted that most of the movie soundtrack comes thru the center channel. I personally have a CSi40 (2 x 6.5" woofers) in the main system, upgraded from a CSi30 (2 x 5.25" woofers) many years ago. Newegg seems to have some specials on misc. Polk speakers every Friday and Saturday (at least the last three or four weeks now), though the "special" is a $xx gift card for use only at Newegg. Hey, it's better than nothing...

This other promotion just ended, but 6ave.com just had a "name your price" deal where you could submit offers on any of their products, including Polk speakers. I got lucky and was able to buy some new cherry RTi A7's for about 33% less than MSRP. And that price included free shipping - the boxes just arrived today and each speaker was double-boxed, absolutely huge! Hopefully the speakers themselves are not in tiny shards...



So if you can wait a bit for a new center, check Newegg on Saturday for any promotions...and enjoy your new gear when it arrives!

Note: My only association with Newegg and 6ave.com is as a past satisfied customer...

Like you, my dad also got me interested in this great hobby, via his two-channel system from many, many years (dare I say decades?) ago. Nothing like a teenager pi$$ing off the neighbors with a pair of 30" woofers...