Point to point
VR3
Posts: 28,732
Anyone every converted a crossover from a PCB to point to point? Whats the process?
I dont plan to do this - but know it is a superior method
I dont plan to do this - but know it is a superior method
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
Comments
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Humm, thats a good one! Unless the PCB needs to be replaced I don't see why one would want to do such. Ok, maybe for an upgrade where the components are larger.Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »Anyone ever converted a crossover from a PCB to point to point? Whats the process?
I dont plan to do this - but know it is a superior method
Even if you don't use a PCB you'd still would need to use something hard and non flamable to hold the components in order to strategically place them (hopefully place them similar to the way they were installed on the origiinal Xo), solder your components using their leards and then cover with hot glue.
The advantage I could see out of such is price and I guess point to point might improve the signal slightly (compared to the tinfoil runs of PCBs)???
Cheers!
TKDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life
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Why non flammable? How often do you hear of crossover components bursting into flames?
It's common to mount the components to peg board or a regular piece of wood, solder all components directly to each other, and use chassis wire if needed."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Simply for ease of soldering. also, maybe I am too picky when it comes to safety (anything which use electricity).Why non flammable? How often do you hear of crossover components bursting into flames?
It's common to mount the components to peg board or a regular piece of wood, solder all components directly to each other, and use chassis wire if needed.DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
Just trace the circuit and reproduce it point to point. It's fine to use terminal strips, too :-)
I like pegboard; perfboard (which Radio Shack used to sell) is fine, too.
Here for example is one of the XOs I built for my daughter's CSW Model Sixes displaying my fine construction skills :-P
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yeah, well, yours is pretty!
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Nice neat work zingo.
As long as the PC board has wide traces to handle high currents and allow for proper coil orientation and spacing then IMO no need to go P-P. -
Humm, I really like that idea!It's fine to use terminal strips
Very fine job Zingo!
+1As long as the PC board has wide traces to handle high currents and allow for proper coil orientation and spacingDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
The terminal strip is really nice as I can remove the board without soldering, but it still provides a good connection. Especially if you run your leads through the terminal strip so they touch each other and the screws for the terminal are only securing the connection.
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A lot of the older commercial equipment was using this type of terminal strip. One of the best on the market. It used taylored short jumpers for paralelling circuits. I think it is a great idea to use it for point to point Xos. I guess you acquired them from parts express?DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
This still needs a little lead trimming, but not until after I drill and router the board to zip tie and glue the components down. This is the tweeter and mid section of the custom speakers I built, the woofer crossover is on another board.
This is my Tannoy HPD-385A crossover. One day I'll get around to staining and sealing it.
Finally, here's a pair of LSi15 crossovers before being tidied up.
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Cool, does look spiffy So you did use MDF, it seems to be pretty sturdy. Do you simply "hot glue" the components on the MDF? How do you like the terninal strips you are presently using? DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
I bought my terminal strips from the local electrical supply store linked below, but I was also able to find them at a number of other local shops. However, I'm sure PE would also have them.
http://www.frys.com/product/1898992?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG -
Cool, does look spiffy So you did use MDF, it seems to be pretty sturdy. Do you simply "hot glue" the components on the MDF? How do you like the terninal strips you are presently using?
The white terminal strips are the bomb. I bought a 25 pack when I left the electronics store I worked at way back. You can cut them to size, plus the set screw is insulated. They do come in different 'gauges' and I only stocked up on the 18-22 ga style.
Zingos are not flexible, not exactly insulated, but they do accept spade connectors. -
Thanks ShinAce! Your connector looks good and I see the isolation (feed wire through). The one zingo uses (I am not sure it still exist) you should be able to buy covers for them if they don't exist anymore you can easily make your own. They are very versatile since you can paralell them (either using specific short spade or if you can not get them anymore you just stack the spades,,, probably 3 of them). I guess both types have their pros and cons. One thing for sure, you can do a much nicer job using one or the other instead of twistings wires.The white terminal strips are the bomb. I bought a 25 pack when I left the electronics store I worked at way back. You can cut them to size, plus the set screw is insulated. They do come in different 'gauges' and I only stocked up on the 18-22 ga style.
Zingos are not flexible, not exactly insulated, but they do accept spade connectors.
Cheers!
TKDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
I know it is an old thread, but only one that materialized on search. I'm trying to find what is the best wire to use when a little extra lengths are needed between caps/coils/resistors on a P2P board.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Solid copper or silver..Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I bought a couple of long lengths of teflon coated silver coated copper avionics wire and use that for my crossovers when I need to add some length."Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."
"Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip -
What gauge and # of strands of each type? That's the detail I cant nail down.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Not stranded, solid core. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 18 gauge.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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Speaking of point-to-point: I do need to finalize the XOs on the FrankenAltecs -- someday.
In my defense -- of course those are audiophile-grade clip leads
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I'll get solid core 18g silver then. The sales descriptions state either "dead soft" or ahem... " half hard" which are it's annealed properties. Would there be an SQ difference between the two?
I know the machining properties are night and day, but never looked into electrical properties before.
Mhardy, organization is the key word of the day lol.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I have used this guy great seller has all kinds
Just an FYI
http://stores.ebay.com/Johns-Silver-Plated-PTFE-Wire-Shop?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 -
My next project I'd like to use 1/8" thick flat copper sheet and machine the traces. Is that too thick? I would like to go at least 3/8" width traces as well.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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My next project I'd like to use 1/8" thick flat copper sheet and machine the traces. Is that too thick? I would like to go at least 3/8" width traces as well.
Guess I'll be the firstDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
My next project I'd like to use 1/8" thick flat copper sheet and machine the traces. Is that too thick? I would like to go at least 3/8" width traces as well.
That would be pretty Stout traces. -
I don't think you would see any benefits, point to point is much better than circuit boards- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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The benefit is a universal X-over design for these vintage polks that bolt right in the factory terminal plate spot....
I'll lathe the OD down to where the traces are 0.035" thick, then cut 0.50" wide traces. That'll leave plenty cabinet insertion clearance after the caps, resistors, and inductors are arranged on the Inner Diameter of the tube and soldered to the copper...
I probably can't get your hand-grenade caps fitted, but the usual suspects will fit easily enough...
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Yeah but you can technically do that with point to point. They make molex connectors and such that can accomodate point to point. But i understand- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
