Subwoofer suggestions

I've been talking with nbrowser about upgrading my Dodge Journey's sound system. I have it in the shop for them to fix all the screwups but here's what I have already that needs to be re-integrated:

Focal Auditor 5.25 component speakers front doors
AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
JL Audio 4 channel amp
SoundOrdnance powered 8" underseat sub

It was suggested to me that I may want to forgo the powered sub and go right to a box sub and power it from the spare 2 channels bridged from my JL amp. I don't even know where to start so can someone help me with some suggestions? I'm not limiting myself to any specific brands, but I want the bass to be tight and punchy--not muddy and boomy. I like to listen to a lot of jazz, singer/songwriter and progressive metal. Any help would be appreciated. Would prefer a single driver system because I don't want to take up much space in the back. Also, should I go ported or sealed?
TV: 70" LED Sharp Aquos Quattron 3D
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC

Comments

  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    edited May 2015
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • ROHfanROHfan Posts: 1,005
    Dock, thanks for the advice. That Tang looks very interesting and the reviews are stellar. I'm reading that the Tang likes a ported enclosure to ensure the driver's full travel but you suggest going with a sealed one. Why is that? Oh, and thanks for the links. Definitely have something to chew on, now.
    TV: 70" LED Sharp Aquos Quattron 3D
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 7,529
    If you want tight and punchy I'd go sealed.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    Nightfall hit the nail on the head.
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • ROHfanROHfan Posts: 1,005
    Alrighty, then. Probably gonna go that route if the current install doesn't sound to my liking. I have a 60 day money back guarantee from Crutchfield so I know that won't be an issue. Thanks again for the direction, dudes.
    TV: 70" LED Sharp Aquos Quattron 3D
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    Man do I miss car audio some days....I ran sealed subs almost exclusively. However, some of the cleanest, tightest, dry, most natural sounding bass I've heard in a car was infinite baffle mounted subs. I was in the process of acquiring some very nice gear for an all out SQ system with an IB sub. I ended up having to sell it all off a few years ago when I moved from MI to IN. I had a custom 15" Acoustic Elegance IB sub with a huge underhung motor. The sub was designed to have very low distortion and linear output.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/WLDock/Car Audio/IMAG0413.jpg
    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/WLDock/media/Car Audio/IMAG0412.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

    Once I get a 2 ch rig together and a new car I'm for sure going to put a system together....its been too long. ...the quest for clarity, detail, impact, and tight bass never ends!
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 7,529
    The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    Nightfall wrote: »
    The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.
    It can be a task sometimes to get this in the car. However, I've listened to some SQ competition cars that were able to do some things right. Many of these had drivers in the kick panels to help equal out the path length differences.

    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • ROHfanROHfan Posts: 1,005
    Ok, so here's a stupid question. I'm sending my front left and right into the Cleansweep and then out to the amp, then to the front door components. Then, I have the rear left and right going into the Cleansweep and running them to my powered sub which has a left and right input. I'm going to go with a passive sub and want to have it amplified by the spare two channels from my JL Audio amp. What is the best way to do this? Can I still plug the rear left and right channels into ch 3 and 4 inputs on the amp and just bridge the output of ch 3 and 4 to get mono to the sub? Not sure how to continue.
    TV: 70" LED Sharp Aquos Quattron 3D
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    Yes, that is correct...its the same thing. Your powered sub is the same thing as an amp and a passive sub....low level input>AMP>high power outputs>SUB
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • ROHfanROHfan Posts: 1,005
    Getting the new speakers today I ordered. The 5.25" Focals and Sound Ordnance sub isn't cutting it. Went with 6.5" JL Audio C3-600 component speakers and a Kicker 12" sub in sealed enclosure. I'm thinking I may wind up exchanging the Kicker as I really had my mind set on a JL Audio sealed unit but it was out of stock.
    TV: 70" LED Sharp Aquos Quattron 3D
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,137
    Sounds good.
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
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