Subwoofer suggestions
ROHfan
Posts: 1,014
I've been talking with nbrowser about upgrading my Dodge Journey's sound system. I have it in the shop for them to fix all the screwups but here's what I have already that needs to be re-integrated:
Focal Auditor 5.25 component speakers front doors
AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
JL Audio 4 channel amp
SoundOrdnance powered 8" underseat sub
It was suggested to me that I may want to forgo the powered sub and go right to a box sub and power it from the spare 2 channels bridged from my JL amp. I don't even know where to start so can someone help me with some suggestions? I'm not limiting myself to any specific brands, but I want the bass to be tight and punchy--not muddy and boomy. I like to listen to a lot of jazz, singer/songwriter and progressive metal. Any help would be appreciated. Would prefer a single driver system because I don't want to take up much space in the back. Also, should I go ported or sealed?
Focal Auditor 5.25 component speakers front doors
AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
JL Audio 4 channel amp
SoundOrdnance powered 8" underseat sub
It was suggested to me that I may want to forgo the powered sub and go right to a box sub and power it from the spare 2 channels bridged from my JL amp. I don't even know where to start so can someone help me with some suggestions? I'm not limiting myself to any specific brands, but I want the bass to be tight and punchy--not muddy and boomy. I like to listen to a lot of jazz, singer/songwriter and progressive metal. Any help would be appreciated. Would prefer a single driver system because I don't want to take up much space in the back. Also, should I go ported or sealed?
TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
Comments
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There are so many choices out there from 6.5"-18" but that Alpine Type R I listed in the other thread is a great choice. Fairly low Q driver, powerful motor to low moving mass, Clean bass that is not overbearing...and the enclosure is narrow and small. $300 list, on eBay for $150
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-SBR-S8-4-Enclosed-Type-R-8-Car-Subwoofer-in-Ported-Sub-Enclosure-SBRS8-4-/351316708214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cc1b8b76&vxp=mtr
Install Pics
http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=846551&stc=1&d=1365983591
http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/Purple-Car/media/2014 Fiesta ST/IMAG0821_zpsw9dwg8pc.jpg.html
Feedback
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/113921-alpine-sbr-s83v-type-r-8-alpine-prefab-ported-enclosure.html
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Sbr-s8-4-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Preloaded/product-reviews/B00E1BOFUA/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_summary?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=byRankDescending
You can DIY a small sub system that will offer that dry musical bass sound on the cheap. Get the low Q (0.3) TangBand W8-740P and put it in a super small sealed .3-.5 cu ft enclosure.
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w8-740p-8-subwoofer--264-854
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-SINGLE-30-CU-FT-UNIVERSAL-BLACK-SUBWOOFER-SUB-SPEAKER-ENCLOSURE-BOX-/271766015803?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f46844f3b&vxp=mtr2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Dock, thanks for the advice. That Tang looks very interesting and the reviews are stellar. I'm reading that the Tang likes a ported enclosure to ensure the driver's full travel but you suggest going with a sealed one. Why is that? Oh, and thanks for the links. Definitely have something to chew on, now.TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier -
If you want tight and punchy I'd go sealed.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Nightfall hit the nail on the head.2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
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Alrighty, then. Probably gonna go that route if the current install doesn't sound to my liking. I have a 60 day money back guarantee from Crutchfield so I know that won't be an issue. Thanks again for the direction, dudes.TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier -
Man do I miss car audio some days....I ran sealed subs almost exclusively. However, some of the cleanest, tightest, dry, most natural sounding bass I've heard in a car was infinite baffle mounted subs. I was in the process of acquiring some very nice gear for an all out SQ system with an IB sub. I ended up having to sell it all off a few years ago when I moved from MI to IN. I had a custom 15" Acoustic Elegance IB sub with a huge underhung motor. The sub was designed to have very low distortion and linear output.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/WLDock/Car Audio/IMAG0413.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/WLDock/media/Car Audio/IMAG0412.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7
Once I get a 2 ch rig together and a new car I'm for sure going to put a system together....its been too long. ...the quest for clarity, detail, impact, and tight bass never ends!2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Ok, so here's a stupid question. I'm sending my front left and right into the Cleansweep and then out to the amp, then to the front door components. Then, I have the rear left and right going into the Cleansweep and running them to my powered sub which has a left and right input. I'm going to go with a passive sub and want to have it amplified by the spare two channels from my JL Audio amp. What is the best way to do this? Can I still plug the rear left and right channels into ch 3 and 4 inputs on the amp and just bridge the output of ch 3 and 4 to get mono to the sub? Not sure how to continue.TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier -
Yes, that is correct...its the same thing. Your powered sub is the same thing as an amp and a passive sub....low level input>AMP>high power outputs>SUB
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
Getting the new speakers today I ordered. The 5.25" Focals and Sound Ordnance sub isn't cutting it. Went with 6.5" JL Audio C3-600 component speakers and a Kicker 12" sub in sealed enclosure. I'm thinking I may wind up exchanging the Kicker as I really had my mind set on a JL Audio sealed unit but it was out of stock.TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier -
Sounds good.2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2