Subwoofer suggestions

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I've been talking with nbrowser about upgrading my Dodge Journey's sound system. I have it in the shop for them to fix all the screwups but here's what I have already that needs to be re-integrated:

Focal Auditor 5.25 component speakers front doors
AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
JL Audio 4 channel amp
SoundOrdnance powered 8" underseat sub

It was suggested to me that I may want to forgo the powered sub and go right to a box sub and power it from the spare 2 channels bridged from my JL amp. I don't even know where to start so can someone help me with some suggestions? I'm not limiting myself to any specific brands, but I want the bass to be tight and punchy--not muddy and boomy. I like to listen to a lot of jazz, singer/songwriter and progressive metal. Any help would be appreciated. Would prefer a single driver system because I don't want to take up much space in the back. Also, should I go ported or sealed?
TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier

Comments

  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited May 2015
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    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
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    Dock, thanks for the advice. That Tang looks very interesting and the reviews are stellar. I'm reading that the Tang likes a ported enclosure to ensure the driver's full travel but you suggest going with a sealed one. Why is that? Oh, and thanks for the links. Definitely have something to chew on, now.
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,067
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    If you want tight and punchy I'd go sealed.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    Nightfall hit the nail on the head.
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
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    Alrighty, then. Probably gonna go that route if the current install doesn't sound to my liking. I have a 60 day money back guarantee from Crutchfield so I know that won't be an issue. Thanks again for the direction, dudes.
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    Man do I miss car audio some days....I ran sealed subs almost exclusively. However, some of the cleanest, tightest, dry, most natural sounding bass I've heard in a car was infinite baffle mounted subs. I was in the process of acquiring some very nice gear for an all out SQ system with an IB sub. I ended up having to sell it all off a few years ago when I moved from MI to IN. I had a custom 15" Acoustic Elegance IB sub with a huge underhung motor. The sub was designed to have very low distortion and linear output.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/WLDock/Car Audio/IMAG0413.jpg
    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/WLDock/media/Car Audio/IMAG0412.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

    Once I get a 2 ch rig together and a new car I'm for sure going to put a system together....its been too long. ...the quest for clarity, detail, impact, and tight bass never ends!
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,067
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    The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    Nightfall wrote: »
    The only thing I didn't like about my car stereo (component speakers, 5 channel amp, upgraded alternator and battery, sub, the works) is that there isn't such a thing as sound stage or imaging. Not sure how else to describe it but it's just sound.
    It can be a task sometimes to get this in the car. However, I've listened to some SQ competition cars that were able to do some things right. Many of these had drivers in the kick panels to help equal out the path length differences.

    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
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    Ok, so here's a stupid question. I'm sending my front left and right into the Cleansweep and then out to the amp, then to the front door components. Then, I have the rear left and right going into the Cleansweep and running them to my powered sub which has a left and right input. I'm going to go with a passive sub and want to have it amplified by the spare two channels from my JL Audio amp. What is the best way to do this? Can I still plug the rear left and right channels into ch 3 and 4 inputs on the amp and just bridge the output of ch 3 and 4 to get mono to the sub? Not sure how to continue.
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    Yes, that is correct...its the same thing. Your powered sub is the same thing as an amp and a passive sub....low level input>AMP>high power outputs>SUB
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
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    Getting the new speakers today I ordered. The 5.25" Focals and Sound Ordnance sub isn't cutting it. Went with 6.5" JL Audio C3-600 component speakers and a Kicker 12" sub in sealed enclosure. I'm thinking I may wind up exchanging the Kicker as I really had my mind set on a JL Audio sealed unit but it was out of stock.
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    Sounds good.
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2