New 1C Purchase Questions

2

Comments

  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,766
    edited December 2017
    audioluvr wrote: »
    SCompRacer, The 1C's have a pin blade interconnect cable. I'm hoping the guy wired them up right as I have no idea they are supposed to be. Currently the pin in one speaker goes to the pin in the other.
    So far...so good.
    audioluvr wrote: »
    All, I have noticed some weird stuff going on with these speakers that may explain poor sound quality.

    **When I turn the balance all the way to the right,

    On the right speaker:
    I hear full volume on all drivers and bottom tweeter. Quieter sound coming out of the top tweeter.
    Full volume is NOT correct for "all drivers". The Stereo drivers (inside pair) should have full volume. The SDA drivers (outside pair) should have ONLY bass, although they will vibrate like a passive radiator as the stereo drivers move them. If the signal you're feeding them has little bass, those SDA drivers should not be active.

    I would expect full tweeter volume from the upper tweeter, restricted HF from the lower tweeter. The schematics hosted on this site show the upper tweeter is the "main" one, with shunting and additional filtering for the lower tweeter--unless the schematic isn't showing the actual placement of the tweeters. At any rate, one loud and one softer is normal.
    audioluvr wrote: »
    On the Left speaker:
    I hear reduced volume on the outer drivers and nothing on the inner drivers and nothing out of either of the tweeters.
    Correct.
    audioluvr wrote: »
    **When I turn the balance all the way to the left,

    On the left speaker:
    I hear full volume on all drivers and bottom tweeter. Quieter sound coming out of the top tweeter.
    See above. Bass only from the outer pair, although they'll vibrate in sympathy to the stereo drivers. I'd expect the upper tweeter to be the loudest, although one "loud" tweeter and one with less volume (because of the restricted frequency range) would be correct.
    audioluvr wrote: »
    On the right speaker:
    I hear reduced volume on the outer drivers and nothing on the inner drivers and nothing out of either of the tweeters.
    That's correct.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,229
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Ok so I need to build new interconnect cable with just the pins... Copy. Does anyone make gold plated pin terminals? Thanks again for all the help!

    do you have the correct pin/blade factory interconnect cable? If not look below.


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Interconnect-Cable-Polk-Audio-SDA-SRS2-3-Speakers-others-20ft-Gold-New-Read/382305899983?hash=item59033515cf:g:DDMAAOSwR29ZDIPR
  • Update. So I found out that my Carver 1.0 is the non common ground one. That is why my speakers sounded lame. I had the left channel inverted via Carver's wiring diagram. I guess these old ones were mainly intended for mono use. If I get the A1 dreadnaught interconnect setup how does that affect sound quality compared to a common ground amp? I am currently running them on a lowly Carver MXR receiver (that apparently everyone here hates) and they sound fantastic! (I don't play my music at ear bleeding levels though).
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,986
    The Dreadnought will allow you to use any non-common ground amp including mono blocks. The sound is vastly improved using the Dreadnought even with common ground amps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    Forgive me audioluvr but are you referring to a M1.0t?
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,766
    The earliest version of the M1.0 had one channel opposite polarity of the other. This was "corrected" at the output terminals by reversing the color code of the inverted channel.

    With typical monophonic bass, the bass notes would draw power from both the + (one channel) and the - (the other channel) power supply. This lessens the load on the power supply. It also makes bridging to mono very, very easy.

    Of course, since one channel cannot tie the negative output terminal to ground, these early 1.0s cannot be made common ground.

    Later M1.0s did not have the inverted channel, and the output terminals and such was different on the back panel, which is how they're easily identified. Still later (I think) came the M1.0 "T" version which also does not have an inverted channel.
  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    Thanks Schurkey. I had to look at both of my M1.0t's and yes they are the non-inverted ones. Whew !!!
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • I have one of the first 1.0' s made sn#0012XX. These were a much simpler design internally. I'm trying to decide if I should get another amp or go with the dreadnaught setup. My budget (~$400) is about the same either way.
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 9,781
    Dreadnought
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • Well Dreadnought it is! Now if I can maintain the patience to wait for someone to build one for me... On to the DIY upgrades! Got the RDO-194's in and the PR baskets dynomatted so far! Sound great!
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    edited January 25
    Update: Well got all the upgrades done except crossovers. Cabinets sealed, Dynamat, BH5 (Sonic Barrier), batting repositioned, deoxit all connections, magnets glued, RDO 194's, MD weatherstripping, and spikes.

    Just got my Carver M1.0 back from a full restoration. Holy crap! Good thing I don't have neighbors! Just turning it up enough for the first set of meters to flicker felt like china was going to vibrate off the wall. Can't imagine why you'd want one of these for each channel. Rolland at Hi-Tech did an amazing job.

    I will listen to them until this weekend and then the crossovers are going to DHS. While they are away I will finish the Dreadnaught build. Can't wait to hear what it all does for the system.
    s3x0qebgn1z4.jpeg
    9oc5uoey444n.jpeg
    q2oszm214vg0.jpeg
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,229
    Sorry but there is better than the cord caulk. Your gaskets look to be in good shape on the drivers. Armacell pipe tape works wonderfully and is less likely to strip screw holes or pull off part of the front baffle. Drivers come out much easier with the armacell.
    It can be sourced from Home Depot.
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,766
    The "cord weatherstripping" (around here, it's referred to as "Mortite" as that is one brand name of the stuff, Dennis is another brand name, and it's also generically called "rope caulk") will be a mistake.

    The stuff works GREAT for sealing drivers to the cabinet. And then at some point you need to remove the drivers, and it's near impossible to pry them back out of the cabinet. And then you get to clean-up the mess all that smeared and crushed caulk makes before you can re-assemble the drivers back into the cabinet.

    Just use gaskets on the drivers. Leave the rope caulk for other applications.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    edited January 25
    Too late. I rolled it out to a fine bead to prevent excess from squishing out. I almost never drive speakers hard. Should be fine for as long as I am around
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,986
    Remove it now before it's too late. Very bad choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    Oh all right. If you say so. Wasn't really doing anything this weekend anyway
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Update: Well got all the upgrades done except crossovers. Cabinets sealed, Dynamat, BH5 (Sonic Barrier), batting repositioned, deoxit all connections, magnets glued, RDO 194's, MD weatherstripping, and spikes.

    Just got my Carver M1.0 back from a full restoration. Holy crap! Good thing I don't have neighbors! Just turning it up enough for the first set of meters to flicker felt like china was going to vibrate off the wall. Can't imagine why you'd want one of these for each channel. Rolland at Hi-Tech did an amazing job.

    I will listen to them until this weekend and then the crossovers are going to DHS. While they are away I will finish the Dreadnaught build. Can't wait to hear what it all does for the system.
    s3x0qebgn1z4.jpeg

    What size did you cut for the BH5??? Thanks!!!
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    A 4" wide vertical strip behind the drivers starting flush with the bottom driver.
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    audioluvr wrote: »
    A 4" wide vertical strip behind the drivers starting flush with the bottom driver.

    Thank you!!! How far did you run it upward? Hard to tell with the pic, but it looks like it is flush with the top of the MW?
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,986
    You want a 3 or 4 inch wide strip directly behind the mid-drivers only.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 17,862
    F1nut wrote: »
    The Dreadnought will allow you to use any non-common ground amp including mono blocks. The sound is vastly improved using the Dreadnought even with common ground amps.
    Guess I need to get off my lazy azz and get to building mine...
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with PS Audio NuWave Phono converter, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Stradivari v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X1 two channel preamplifier Signed by Poppa himself, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Krell Evolution 525a CD Player, Pioneer Elite SC-65, Oppo UDP-205 Blu-ray , Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,229
    F1nut wrote: »
    The Dreadnought will allow you to use any non-common ground amp including mono blocks. The sound is vastly improved using the Dreadnought even with common ground amps.
    Guess I need to get off my lazy azz and get to building mine...

    Or sell it to me :p
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    While still waiting for @westmassguy to build my crossovers I did some more work on my 1C's. Yesterday I built my 800va dreadnaught, built IC cables with Speak-on terminals, rebuild the terminal cups, soldered all connections, coated the back of the Speak-on terminals with liquid tape...

    9mwxmjpk7gja.jpg


    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 384
    Suspecting a poor factory seal I resealed the back of the cups with this stuff...

    8f0hfev4uitz.jpg

    Because I didn't want Jesse to get mad at me for using rope seal...

    Then I pulled the RDO194'S to fix the crappy basket design. Being borderline obsessive compulsive ( friends say there's no borderline about it) I felt just putting washers on the backs are not going to do it. So I added rope seal (sorry Jesse) around the magnet and perimeter. This totally dampened it and made the stock gasket much more effective.

    iday3h75pkzo.jpeg
    SDA 1C's
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
  • xschopxschop Posts: 828
    Dynamat those backs after adding washers. JAT
  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    Hi @audioluvr you may want to consider sealing the outer corners as well. Based on the pic, their could still be a leak path in those areas!

    FYI - I added the washers on my new tweets as well. I re-purposed the original SL2000 gasket however.

    I like how you marked the polarity of the terminals. Good idea!
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    Hey I noticed you put some dynamat on the brace in between the MW's. Never seen that before. Is that recommended?
    ybs4sglla0m1.png
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,986
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Suspecting a poor factory seal I resealed the back of the cups with this stuff...

    8f0hfev4uitz.jpg

    Because I didn't want Jesse to get mad at me for using rope seal...

    Then I pulled the RDO194'S to fix the crappy basket design. Being borderline obsessive compulsive ( friends say there's no borderline about it) I felt just putting washers on the backs are not going to do it. So I added rope seal (sorry Jesse) around the magnet and perimeter. This totally dampened it and made the stock gasket much more effective.

    iday3h75pkzo.jpeg

    Ugh
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • verbverb Posts: 2,732
    edited February 11
    If I may be so bold to translate @F1nut (not sure why he's limited to single syllable words today) :smiley:

    Ugh = Armacell Foam tape. All the rage these days.
    Basement: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • TNTsTunesTNTsTunes Posts: 754
    verb wrote: »
    If I may be so bold to translate @F1nut (not sure why he's limited to single syllable words today) :smiley:

    Ugh = Armacell Foam tape. All the rage these days.

    I think he uses the roll of speaker foam they sell at parts express.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

2
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