Picked up a stray subwoofer - advice?

While cruising the local classified site, I came across an RBH sx-1010-n passive sub for $200. This is a dual 10" ported model that is well reviewed, and originally retailed for about $1,200. I went and looked at it, and it is in SAD shape. I told the guy I really wasn't interested, and he said make me an offer. I told him i didn't want to insult him, and he said how about $40?

So I got it home, and now I'm not sure what to do with it. The good news is that the drivers are in excellent shape, and test out just fine. The bad news, I doubt I can fix all the screw holes in it (it was permanently mounted in a wall for an HT), due to the fact that I'm sure the wood veneer is too thin to allow much sanding. I am quite handy with woodwork, but I don't have experience with applying veneer (not sure how difficult that is). I could build a new enclosure, with the same port and volume. Or I could just sell the drivers and make a little money. Thing is, I am in need of a good musical sub for the new B&W bookies, and I think this would fit the bill nicely.

So I'm looking for some thoughts/advice from you all on what you think would be the best course of action.

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Too much stuff to keep track of.

Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105

Comments

  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 14,940
    edited November 26
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 21,839
    Ditto, not bad shape at all. Fill holes and texture... Rock out
    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • daddyjtdaddyjt Posts: 494
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.
    Too much stuff to keep track of.

    Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 14,940
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • daddyjtdaddyjt Posts: 494
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:

    Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)
    Too much stuff to keep track of.

    Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,021
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.
    Definitely transferable skills! :D Check this out.
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/1710141
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 14,940
    daddyjt wrote: »
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:

    Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)

    NICE! I've been using one on my DIY Subs for quite some time and love it. Especially as you can custom EQ things, so if you want to boost the low end, or set a highpass to 30hz, its easily done.

    And with a sealed box, adding some boost to account for rolloff isnt a bad thing :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 1,570
    For a quick fix, drill out the screw holes, glue wood dowel in the hole flush with the outside surface to make air tight. Paint with black paint pen, done.
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    I found a piano gloss NHT sub at a tag sale for 5 bucks once and just couldn't pass it up.
    Luckily, I had an old Velodyne amp plate left over from a blown sub someone gave me.
    I originally built the amp plate into it's own box, complete with convection cooling vents that I added to the top and bottom.
    Later on, I just mounted it into the back of the NHT and added some ball and claw feet that I found in the dumpster out back.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 3,752
    Did u start on this yet? Another option is to remove the veneer, full the holes, and just paint it.

    On the other hand, while building an enclosure is kind of a pita, you could make it the shape and finish you want to beat match the space...and with only $40 in the drivers you would still have a really nice sub for cheap.
    HT Rig:
    Yamaha RX-A1010; Parasound HCA-1000a; Arcam rDac; Mains: PSB Imagine Mini + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, Dynaudio Emit 10, NHT Super One CI, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    Wow ! that formica marble finish on those linked Heresy's was great !
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