Picked up a stray subwoofer - advice?

daddyjt

While cruising the local classified site, I came across an RBH sx-1010-n passive sub for $200. This is a dual 10" ported model that is well reviewed, and originally retailed for about $1,200. I went and looked at it, and it is in SAD shape. I told the guy I really wasn't interested, and he said make me an offer. I told him i didn't want to insult him, and he said how about $40?

So I got it home, and now I'm not sure what to do with it. The good news is that the drivers are in excellent shape, and test out just fine. The bad news, I doubt I can fix all the screw holes in it (it was permanently mounted in a wall for an HT), due to the fact that I'm sure the wood veneer is too thin to allow much sanding. I am quite handy with woodwork, but I don't have experience with applying veneer (not sure how difficult that is). I could build a new enclosure, with the same port and volume. Or I could just sell the drivers and make a little money. Thing is, I am in need of a good musical sub for the new B&W bookies, and I think this would fit the bill nicely.

So I'm looking for some thoughts/advice from you all on what you think would be the best course of action.

EndersShadow

I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

VR3

Ditto, not bad shape at all. Fill holes and texture... Rock out

daddyjt

EndersShadow wrote: »

I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

EndersShadow

daddyjt wrote: »

EndersShadow wrote: »

I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan

daddyjt

EndersShadow wrote: »

daddyjt wrote: »

EndersShadow wrote: »

I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan

Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)

mdaudioguy

daddyjt wrote: »

I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

Definitely transferable skills! Check this out.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/1710141

EndersShadow

daddyjt wrote: »

EndersShadow wrote: »

daddyjt wrote: »

EndersShadow wrote: »

I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan

Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)

NICE! I've been using one on my DIY Subs for quite some time and love it. Especially as you can custom EQ things, so if you want to boost the low end, or set a highpass to 30hz, its easily done.

And with a sealed box, adding some boost to account for rolloff isnt a bad thing

DaveHo

For a quick fix, drill out the screw holes, glue wood dowel in the hole flush with the outside surface to make air tight. Paint with black paint pen, done.

Polkaguy58

I found a piano gloss NHT sub at a tag sale for 5 bucks once and just couldn't pass it up.
Luckily, I had an old Velodyne amp plate left over from a blown sub someone gave me.
I originally built the amp plate into it's own box, complete with convection cooling vents that I added to the top and bottom.
Later on, I just mounted it into the back of the NHT and added some ball and claw feet that I found in the dumpster out back.

rooftop59

Did u start on this yet? Another option is to remove the veneer, full the holes, and just paint it.

On the other hand, while building an enclosure is kind of a pita, you could make it the shape and finish you want to beat match the space...and with only $40 in the drivers you would still have a really nice sub for cheap.

Polkaguy58

Wow ! that formica marble finish on those linked Heresy's was great !