Picked up a stray subwoofer - advice?

While cruising the local classified site, I came across an RBH sx-1010-n passive sub for $200. This is a dual 10" ported model that is well reviewed, and originally retailed for about $1,200. I went and looked at it, and it is in SAD shape. I told the guy I really wasn't interested, and he said make me an offer. I told him i didn't want to insult him, and he said how about $40?

So I got it home, and now I'm not sure what to do with it. The good news is that the drivers are in excellent shape, and test out just fine. The bad news, I doubt I can fix all the screw holes in it (it was permanently mounted in a wall for an HT), due to the fact that I'm sure the wood veneer is too thin to allow much sanding. I am quite handy with woodwork, but I don't have experience with applying veneer (not sure how difficult that is). I could build a new enclosure, with the same port and volume. Or I could just sell the drivers and make a little money. Thing is, I am in need of a good musical sub for the new B&W bookies, and I think this would fit the bill nicely.

So I'm looking for some thoughts/advice from you all on what you think would be the best course of action.

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"Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

Comments

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    edited November 2017
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 27,964
    Ditto, not bad shape at all. Fill holes and texture... Rock out
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,305
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,305
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:

    Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.
    Definitely transferable skills! :D Check this out.
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/1710141
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    daddyjt wrote: »
    daddyjt wrote: »
    I’d fill in the holes sand it down and reveneer it. Or do that and then use duratex as it doesn’t show imperfections at all.

    Power it with one of the Carvers you have and you are golden.

    Thanks Dan - that was the plan, active crossover with the miniDSP, and run the sub with a 1.0t or a 1.5t. I'll have to study up on veneering - I've done Formica, but not sure how many "transferable skills" there are between the two.

    Duratex is a good option too. Tougher finish but it covers imperfections easy.

    And a MiniDSP is a good bet too. I’m a big fan :smile:

    Lol - you talked me in to buying the one I have for my ALIII pair about 5 years ago. I never used it - it's the 8x8, and I'll be glad to use it:-)

    NICE! I've been using one on my DIY Subs for quite some time and love it. Especially as you can custom EQ things, so if you want to boost the low end, or set a highpass to 30hz, its easily done.

    And with a sealed box, adding some boost to account for rolloff isnt a bad thing :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    For a quick fix, drill out the screw holes, glue wood dowel in the hole flush with the outside surface to make air tight. Paint with black paint pen, done.
  • I found a piano gloss NHT sub at a tag sale for 5 bucks once and just couldn't pass it up.
    Luckily, I had an old Velodyne amp plate left over from a blown sub someone gave me.
    I originally built the amp plate into it's own box, complete with convection cooling vents that I added to the top and bottom.
    Later on, I just mounted it into the back of the NHT and added some ball and claw feet that I found in the dumpster out back.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Did u start on this yet? Another option is to remove the veneer, full the holes, and just paint it.

    On the other hand, while building an enclosure is kind of a pita, you could make it the shape and finish you want to beat match the space...and with only $40 in the drivers you would still have a really nice sub for cheap.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Wow ! that formica marble finish on those linked Heresy's was great !