Subaru did what now?!?

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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited November 2017
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    Not a problem.

    Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
    Left front + black→ white
    Left front - green → brown

    Right front + red → black/red
    Right front - white → white/red

    Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
    Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

    Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
    Right rear - blue/green → white/black

    If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

    Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
    2:10
    3:4
    4:9
    5:3
    17:6
    18:2
    22:8
    23:7

    And you'll want to disconnect pins 1, 2, 3, and 9 from R315
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  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    Not a problem.

    Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
    Left front + black→ white
    Left front - green → brown

    Right front + red → black/red
    Right front - white → white/red

    Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
    Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

    Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
    Right rear - blue/green → white/black

    If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

    Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
    2:10
    3:4
    4:9
    5:3
    17:6
    18:2
    22:8
    23:7

    Ok, the wire colors I understand..but removing the connector R317 (which one is that? & same for R316). Back probe? That doesn't sound pleasant. lol. Seriously though, that's Greek to me.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    Ok there are 3 connectors for the in house amp and they are labeled as such: R315 feeds the tweets and sub, R316 is the input from the HU, and 317 is power to the amp and output to the speakers. Sorry I don't have colors for the plugs, but R315 is 12 pins, 316 is 24 pins and 317 is 10 pins, so they're dummy proof in that respect.

    Back probing is simply inserting another pin to the back side of the connector so that it can remain inserted in it's intended spot while being able to feed or tap the wire at the same time. I'll look for the proper pins in a moment.
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  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ok there are 3 connectors for the in house amp and they are labeled as such: R315 feeds the tweets and sub, R316 is the input from the HU, and 317 is power to the amp and output to the speakers. Sorry I don't have colors for the plugs, but R315 is 12 pins, 316 is 24 pins and 317 is 10 pins, so they're dummy proof in that respect.

    Back probing is simply inserting another pin to the back side of the connector so that it can remain inserted in it's intended spot while being able to feed or tap the wire at the same time. I'll look for the proper pins in a moment.

    The wiring diagram shows that R315 is Blue. I'm still not grasping the back probing concept. Sorry about that :(
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,049
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    Sounds like piggybacking another wire (connector) onto a multi-pin plug (to me).
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    These should work with some solder and heat shrink. Gikfun Female and male Pin Connector Terminal 2.54mm for Dupont Jumper Wire Each 100pcs EK8284 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146DJR9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5EmhAbNSXYQ5T
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  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited November 2017
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    Looks like I’ll have to yank out the OEM amp and replace it with a 4-channel amp (2 for the front door components & 2 for the DVC sub) and I’ll run the rear door speakers off the head unit. Dang it. At least I know now I can disconnect the OEM amp without any issues.

    At least that’s the plan for now.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,650
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    Not a problem.

    Here we go: from HU harness →speaker harness
    Left front + black→ white
    Left front - green → brown

    Right front + red → black/red
    Right front - white → white/red

    Left rear + white/blue → black/blue
    Left rear - orange/blue → white/blue

    Right rear + blue/yellow → yellow
    Right rear - blue/green → white/black

    If you're feeling slick, I'd do this: remove connector R317 and extend pins 1 & 5 back to the amp. Then back probe R316 pins and extend those to R317 as they correspond to the colors above.

    Or easier: from R316 to R317 (pin numbers)
    2:10
    3:4
    4:9
    5:3
    17:6
    18:2
    22:8
    23:7

    And you'll want to disconnect pins 1, 2, 3, and 9 from R315

    What was that middle part again? Otto (Name the movie and actor for a karma)
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    halo wrote: »
    Looks like I’ll have to yank out the OEM amp and replace it with a 4-channel amp (2 for the front door components & 2 for the DVC sub) and I’ll run the rear door speakers off the head unit. Dang it. At least I know now I can disconnect the OEM amp without any issues.

    At least that’s the plan for now.

    Ummm nope!!! Not even close. there's absolutely no reason to pull the factory amp (unless you WANT to). And if you're using the HU to power the rear speakers, you're half way there anyway. And if you ARE going to run an aftermarket amp, get a 5 channel.
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited November 2017
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    Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited November 2017
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    In that case, I'll agree. But then if he goes that route, there's the joy of fishing a wad of RCA's through the center console, and you'll still be splicing into the factory harness for the speaker wires because running separates is a total PITA.
    Post edited by FestYboy on
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  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....

    Hi guys,

    The OEM amp is tuned specifically to work with the OEM speakers (frequency cutoffs, crossover points) and I have no idea what those specific values are. It's been tried before on the Outback and Legacy GT forums and the consensus is that the OEM makes anything but OEM speakers sound wonky.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,049
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    halo wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Not quite where I was going with that @nbrowser . If the directions are followed, the OEM amp winds up only running the sub and the new HU runs the doors, no other amplification needed. I got a PM from @halo that the OEM amp doesn't play well with other speakers, but no clarification as to which ones....

    Hi guys,

    The OEM amp is tuned specifically to work with the OEM speakers (frequency cutoffs, crossover points) and I have no idea what those specific values are. It's been tried before on the Outback and Legacy GT forums and the consensus is that the OEM makes anything but OEM speakers sound wonky.


    Not to go all left-brained analytical scientist on y'all -- but it seems to me that the operating parameters of the amplifier(s) ought to be pretty straightforward to figure out with a frequency generator (and/or some pink noise) and a DMM or a 'scope or even a calibrated microphone/SPL meter.

    Not that I am thinking very hard about this -- I am just a dilettante with respect to this topic. My son-in-law & daughter just bought a 2010 Outback, though, so my interest isn't 100% academic. :)
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  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
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    I remember Manville Smith from JL Audio did a very nice stealth system in a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. Very nice pictures: http://www.jlaudio.com/galleries/Galleries/Mobile+User+Installations/2001+Audi+A6/JL+Audio’s+Demo+Vehicles/2005+Subaru+Legacy+GT+Wagon/718600

    Here are some AWESOME SQ builds also...several Subie builds: http://www.simplicityinsound.com/index.php/galleries/sound-quality-builds
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
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  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,608
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    Simplicity In Sound is the best! Wish I could afford to have them do a system in my FR-S.
    WLDock wrote: »
    I remember Manville Smith from JL Audio did a very nice stealth system in a 2005 Legacy GT Wagon. Very nice pictures: http://www.jlaudio.com/galleries/Galleries/Mobile+User+Installations/2001+Audi+A6/JL+Audio’s+Demo+Vehicles/2005+Subaru+Legacy+GT+Wagon/718600

    Here are some AWESOME SQ builds also...several Subie builds: http://www.simplicityinsound.com/index.php/galleries/sound-quality-builds

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  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
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    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    Not to go all left-brained analytical scientist on y'all -- but it seems to me that the operating parameters of the amplifier(s) ought to be pretty straightforward to figure out with a frequency generator (and/or some pink noise) and a DMM or a 'scope or even a calibrated microphone/SPL meter.

    Not that I am thinking very hard about this -- I am just a dilettante with respect to this topic. My son-in-law & daughter just bought a 2010 Outback, though, so my interest isn't 100% academic. :)
    Hi Mark,

    The 2010 Outback is the first model year in the next (4th) generation of the Outback and it’s a different animal from the 3rd gen (2005-2009) Outbacks.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,049
    edited November 2017
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    I actually sort of knew that; thanks :)
    I do know that it has a fairly low-tech 'infotainment system' (compared to our son-in-law's mother's 2016 Outback).

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