Picked up a mint pair of SDA CRS +'s...I'd like to bring them back to their former glory, or better.

91rtstealth · February 11

F1Nut's parts list. I have a few missing things noted below in bold:

SDA SRS 4.1TL parts list (for both boards)

Polk Audio tweeter
(2) RD0198-1

Sonicap capacitor 5% or better tolerance
(2) .1uF Gen II (replaces the 750pF Silver Mica) I thought I didn't need to worry about the 750pF Silva Mica? What is this for?
(2) 5.8uF
(2) 12uF
(2) 20uF
(2) 30uF
(2) 10uF (combine the 30 & 10 to equal the needed 40uF as the largest cap from Sonicap is 30uF)

Mills Wire-wound 5 watt resistor 5% tolerance
(2) 2.7ohm MRA-5

Cardas Quad Eutectic solder

A short piece of 20 gauge solid copper wire (to extend the lead on the 30uF cap) Where would I find solid copper wire like this? I only have stranded wire...I assume i'll need some for a jumper when I delete the poly switch?

Hot glue gun (to secure the caps to the board). I don't have one, but I can order one from Amazon easily...any specific glue I need or just any old hot glue will do?

xschop · February 12

Looks good. F1 can chime in about his bypass cap choice. I think he omitted it in the end.
Any hot melt glue will work.

pitdogg2 · February 12

These would be a much better choice for resistors. The resistor from Digikey is only 1/4 watt, you need 5 watt minimum. A 10 or 12 watt would be mucho mo'better, like these
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-10-watt/
https://partsconnexion.com/mills-resistor-collection/
Find your correct ohm value and go from there.

The other thing is IF you must double up caps to make value you want to stay as close to half value as possible OR the smaller cap becomes a bypass cap. The 30 and 10 value to make 40 would be a no go for me. 20 and 20 would be ideal.

91rtstealth · February 12

I shouldn't need to double up any caps if I get two of these, correct?

https://partsconnexion.com/claritycap-capacitor-40uf-250vdc-px-series/

and thanks for the correciton on the resistors..once I get a definitely OK on everything, i'll make a list and place an order once I get the green light from ya'll..I don't want to accidentally order the wrong stuff..

91rtstealth · February 12

ok so is that all of the parts i'm going to need?

xschop · February 12

Will he need the 1/4" female fastons for the -198 tweets?

91rtstealth · February 12

xschop wrote: »

Will he need the 1/4" female fastons for the -198 tweets?

I have all kinds of stuff like that around here from doing car audio stuff. I got those. I’m just not sure about the rest.

91rtstealth · February 14

alright..I just ordered all of the caps that I listed above...

I'm about to order the resistors but I want to make absolute sure I got this right...

two of these for the TL mod
https://soniccraft.com/product_info.php/27-ohm-vishay-mills-mra-p-5217

and then two of these to replace the Polyswitch?https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/050-ohm-vishay-mills-mra-p-4610

91rtstealth · February 14

Also does anyone know where I can get four of these? They are good on the other crossover but these arrived broken off like this and I’m not sure how I’ll mount the crossovers otherwise. I’d like to try to keep it somewhat “stock-ish” mounting wise.

pitdogg2 · February 14

https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/050-ohm-vishay-mills-mra-12-p-5332

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/resm1110-mra12-mills-resistor-p-1286.html
Try to stay with 10 or 12 watt resistors, mo-better insurance.

You can either go with different standoffs or remove them from the old XO inductor.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/1895N18, maybe these

Also when replacing the resistors, give them air under the resistors. They can get rocket hot so lots of breathing room is better. Do not hot melt any resistors. I say this just because the same reason that there is a warning on hair dryers not to use in the shower. We've had others here that when replacing components slathered enough hot melt everywhere and they completely covered the resistors which caused problems quickly.

91rtstealth · February 14

Excellent. Thanks for the detailed help. I’ll look into ordering those resistors tomorrow or Monday.

I may give those standoffs a try and if they don’t work out I’ll try to salvage the old ones from the other crossovers.

And don’t you worry. I won’t be making any permanent decisions without first showing pics or videos on here. Haha.

In the mean time, I’m going to start dynamating the drivers next week. I’m assuming I should also do the passive radiators?

audioluvr · February 14

Yes and make sure you glue your magnets too. Also you may be able to secure the new caps with thin long zip ties

91rtstealth · February 15

How about these two resistors? I’m already ordering most of the stuff from Madisound anyways. I’d rather not order them from England. That will take forever and cost an annoying amount in shipping.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-coppernickel-10-watt/mrec10-mundorf-coppernickel-wire-0.47-ohm/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-coppernickel-10-watt/mrec10-mundorf-coppernickel-wire-2.7-ohm/

Picked up a mint pair of SDA CRS +'s...I'd like to bring them back to their former glory, or better.

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