New to me Model 10

TLOC
TLOC Posts: 10
in Forum Testing Area
Hey Polk Audio freaks, new member, just scored a set of Model 10s, sounded and looked amazing at demo. Got them home and it seems one of the cabinets is vibrating/ resonates at a higher volume. Removed radiator and inspecting cabinet but can't find anything. Any suggestions from the experts. Love to figure it out, thanks y'all...Here's a few pics...tf357cwno0ft.jpg
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,669
    edited February 5
    Is the white wire possibly hitting the passive radiator?

    Maybe a suspension spider is loose on a midbass.

    Congrats on getting an AWESOME set of Polk Audio CLASSICS. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    Tony M wrote: »
    Is the white wire possibly hitting the passive radiator?

    Maybe a suspension spider is loose on a midbass.

    Congrats on getting an AWESOME set of Polk Audio CLASSICS. B)

    Thank you Tony, hard to explain but it seems more like the cabinet itself...Tony L
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,669
    edited February 5
    Does it vibrate with that passive being out?

    OH, by the way, I started loving Polk Audio speakers after I bought a set of Monitor 10s just like yours. I then bought a set on eBay before the shipping cost went up. I still own one set of the Moniitor 10s, and will when I die.

    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,970
    Check to make sure you don't have a screw loose. On your speakers I mean.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre Upgraded with Mundorf Supremes
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
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    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,891
    Welcome to Club Polk. I hope you're able to resolve the vibration issue. These guys can be very helpful!! :)
    Set up:

    Marantz AV8802A - Sources: BRP Panasonic 9000/CDP Emotiva ERC 3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-6, XPA-2 x 2 - Speakers: Focal/PolkAudio, Mains/2ch - Kanta No2, C - LSiM706, SS - LSiM702, WS - RTiA9, RS - RTiA9, FH - RTiA3 - Subs: Epik Empires x 2

    Cables: AQ McKenzie XLR's from CDP to AVP to amp for 2ch, Emotiva XLR's for the rest - Douglasconnection: Furutech Alpha 36 12g speaker wire for 2ch, Furez 10g speaker wire for the rest - AQ Forest48 HDMI for the display, AQ Carbon48 HDMI from BRP to AVP - VR3 filtered power cables for CDP, BRP and AVP, Emotiva power cables for the amps - AudioQuest 505 power conditioner.

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    Well, I kept troubleshooting the vibration and literally can see the side panel is free of the rear panel down nearly the whole seam. WOW, with a lot of bass it's so obvious! Now, don't want to screw through the cabinet and it appears the rear panel is too thin to screw some small right angel brackets. Thinking of Titebond 3 Ultimate wood glue and some clamps, thoughts from the gallery?
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,669
    Great.

    Can you spread the panel away enough to get some wood glue into the joint and then clamp it back together?
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    Sure, would it be a disgrace to install small right angel brackets inside the cabinet and glue as well? May 3-4, HD has 1"x1" right angel brackets in black with screws. I checked this morning and both panels are 3/4"(.75) +/- thick...thoughts???
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,669
    I wouldn't use L brackets.

    You could glue the joint back together and let it set. You could then glue a long corner moulding to reinforce the original joint. A 1"x 1" X how long that joint is. That joint would then be pretty solid.



    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    9inlab9snoqn.jpg

    Titebond 3 Ultimate on the inside seam and Titebond Quick & Thick on the rear seam, 6 clamps... :|
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,153
    edited February 12
    After the glue up, I would do all the seams with Power grab heavy duty and push into both panels. Not only will it help with sealing up for no air leaks, it will also bond all the panels together for a more solid box. Many of us have done the same.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Power-Grab-Heavy-Duty-White-Latex-Interior-Exterior-Construction-Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-9-fl-oz/1001059990?
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    So after the repair speaker sounds really good, new problem OTHER speaker tweeter fuse blowing after I put correct 1A fuse in. They're were 2A installed, go figure! It played for a few mins then blew. Questions, how do I know the tweeters are original peerless? Also, is this now a crossover issue? Third, do I start with replacing like for like modern caps or go whole new board? So far Ive replaced a set of binding posts on one, cutted and glued the other cabinet and cut, desoldered all driver connections and replaced with new gold plated female blade style...good grief...
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    And suggestions or recommendations would be much obliged...Thanks y'all!
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    Installed the 2A back in, nothing, cut power twist fuse in clips,power on, nothing, cut power, cussed awhile. Back on have tweeter momentarily...🤬🤬🤬
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  • TLOC
    TLOC Posts: 10
    I suppose I'll go get some wind therapy on the Road Glide then work in the yard awhile til I hear from you fellas...✌️
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  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 2,443
    They'll be along sooner or later. Shiny side up!

    Brian

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,153
    The wires to the fuse block are known to corrode. Many folks remove the fuse block in its entirety. I'd start looking there first. The caps and resistors are way past due to be replaced.
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