Corner Repair Help

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bored184
bored184 Posts: 333
in Vintage Speakers
Any ideas on how to fix this? Just picked up a pair of Polk Monitor 7s and didn't catch this until I got home with them.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,812
    edited January 17
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    Welcome to vintage Polk.

    I'd use Liquid Nails Pro. Let it set up a few days, then wood putty and sand back the corners. The vinyl wrap is toast.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 333
    edited January 17
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    xschop wrote: »
    Welcome to vintage Polk.

    I'd use Liquid Nails Pro. Let it set up a few days, then wood putty and sand back the corners. The vinyl wrap is toast.

    Fill in the gap or use clamps to close the gap then putty?

    These definitely will need some love but the price was cheap. They will get redone and TL modded.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,812
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    Shoot the goo from inside, ensuring it protrudes all the way through to outside. Then clamp and dry 36 hrs. While you're in there do all the inner corners with a bead.

    I'd highly suggest adding a 1"dowel or two front to back between MW and PR.

    The 7Cs are incredible fully modded.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,407
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    Good luck closing that gap up.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 12,006
    edited January 18
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    That cabinet might be salvageable at a low cost.
    I've seen a lot of those swollen cabinets in my time. Water damage. :s

    BUT, you can make it look better in a sense.

    Get a can of this putty. 14.00 a can. It goes a long way. One might fill what you need.

    MIX some, pour some. REPEAT until the canyon are full to the rim. Use a toothpick or a sharp shard of something to force putty down into the crevices of the canyons. ;)
    n2ttit6egu28.png


    Maybe put tape over that vinyl wrap to protect it from over-spill.

    Then sand flat.

    Then paint it black
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,407
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    ^That's about as ghetto as it gets^
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 35,561
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    To say nothing of the black paint requirement. That stuff is hard to find, as we all know.

    ;)
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,812
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    When the cabs are that bad, there'always truck bedliner. B)
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,427
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    Glue, clamps, brad nails and veneer in that order.
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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,742
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    As a cabinet maker in a former life, this could be a “fun” project, but jeez, how much do you value your time?
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 12,006
    edited January 18
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    I highly doubt there's clamping that will close that swollen joint.

    F1nut wrote: »
    ^That's about as ghetto as it gets^

    When you have swollen wood, you have to go to the hood. :D



    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright
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  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 2,685
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    maxward wrote: »
    As a cabinet maker in a former life, this could be a “fun” project, but jeez, how much do you value your time?

    Hey, his handle is “bored.”

    Brian

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  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 1,742
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    ^^^Good point!
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  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 333
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    I've tried clamping and as its already been pointed out the gap did not close. It doesn't look swollen from moisture but its not budging.

    Can I take a heat gun and dismantle the cabinet? Im wondering if I can jusy replace the bottom panel.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,812
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    Time to get medieval on dem cabs.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • slow_polk7
    slow_polk7 Posts: 65
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    I would empty the cabinet completely, then use a Ryoba (japanese saw w/o spine) or some sort of flush cut saw to cut through the entire length of the joint.

    You should then be able to either clamp it back together w/o gaps, or insert a shim the entire length of the gap to completely seal the cabinet.

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,407
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    bored184 wrote: »
    I've tried clamping and as its already been pointed out the gap did not close. It doesn't look swollen from moisture but its not budging.

    Can I take a heat gun and dismantle the cabinet? Im wondering if I can jusy replace the bottom panel.

    The cabinet is particleboard. When that material breaks it basically turns into jagged/crumbled pieces.

    You can try the suggested saw idea, but don't use a good Japanese saw as the material will likely break some teeth off.
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  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 333
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    They arent marked series 2 but they have the SL-2500 tweeter and their crossover matches the m7s.rev2 crossover.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
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