Rebuilding Polk Monitor 7C W/SL1000 To Accept Peerless Tweeter?

Hi,
Looking for anyone that has done this seems the Cap Values are the same but Resistors and how they are set up is different?

Any ideas on this???
«134

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    You would need someone who has the Monitor 7 with Peerless to give you the details of the crossover BUT the 7C used a different MW65xx than the MW6500 the peerless model used.
    Can it be done sure it could, more than likely it will involve more than resistor values, probably inductor changes as well as the driver.
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Thanks, getting lost in the sauce on this, as there is to much conflicting info, and why I was trying to talk to a Polk Tech!
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    Not likely any Polk Tech will weigh in but the late 7B and the early 7C shipped out with the SL1000, which was something Polk came up with as a stop gap measure when the Peerless went out of production. They also sent them out as a warranty replacement to people whose speakers were originally equipped with the Peerless.

    Even though the 7C has the MW6502 and the 7B has the MW6500, if Polk made the SL1000 work in both I would pop a pair of Peerless into yours and see how it sounds.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Got a Supervisor at Polk looking into the Question.

    At least they were willing to talk about it, got to give them that!

    We will see???
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    Unfortunately we do not have the schematics for the peerless model in our vintage speaker section.
    We do have the model with the SL2000 and SL2500 tweeter. There is also an original which MAY be the SL1000 tweeter model. You would have to match it up to your current XO. I guessing yours DO NOT have a fuse protecting the tweeter but DO have the polyswitch which should match up to the M7 original schematic.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-all-models-except-sda#latest
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Thanks, mine is an odd duck for a 7C or early model as it has the fuse holder and straight cut front on Cab... (no front bevel)

    I have been told a Peerless will go right in as the SL1000 was made to replace the Peerless!

    Good news, to me!batzwlxc9s0v.jpg
    m6la4irox4yc.jpg
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    F1 Nut also said it was a go, and good news.

    I will try the SL1000 after rebuild/ crossover work, just to see how it sounds but will probably put in a clone Peerless at the end of the day!

    Thanks again!
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    My original 1979 Peerless sound fantastic to this day. I see them for sale on eBay all the time. Why mess with a made in China copy is my opinion, when you can get the originals.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Thanks, I will look and see what I can find!

    The Clones seem to have a good rep?
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    I haven't seen one single person weigh in on how those clones sound, compared to the Peerless, let alone report on the clones at all. I'd even be hesitant to call them clones because I believe the Thiele/Small parameters are different.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    If you want the Peerless sound get Peerless, if you want the clone keep the SL1000.
    My .02
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Thanks, I run things by GROK3, as all it does is do a power search on the whole Internet, including the different Stereo Forums.

    What I saw today is a real Peerless (Danish made???) is available for what you can get a Clone pair for so that makes it a no brainer!

    The downside is age of the Real Peerless, versus a brand new Clone Tweeter...BUT...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    What I saw today is a real Peerless (Danish made???)
    Jump on that if they are good shape, The Peerless is a rubberized silk dome, unless they have been ran like a scalded cat or have bad corrosion on the plates not much can go wrong. there are many originals still in older Polk speakers running just fine at what 40 years old or more.
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Well these have no markings at all on back of Magnet...

    Danish or US should have numbers???

    Chinese made (clone) have no numbers???

    Just things I have seen and why I'm going easy on this.

    If I'm going to spend the money I want Danish built...Why not?

    Danish-made Peerless speakers are often marked with "7514____" on the magnet or plate. The last two numbers indicate the year of manufacture.
    US-made Peerless speakers are typically marked with "5514____".

    lwqs973n1awj.jpg

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited July 15
    The flats IIRC may mean Danish, it's been a while but I thought the USA were round or vice versa.

    By the way Polk burned holes in the domes, they did not come that way from the factory. Polk used a soldering iron to make a small hole in the dome.
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Here's a US Made 5514...

    lrf2pdi24tm9.jpg
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    edited July 15
    Hi,
    Danish Peerless...7514...

    8pgjsb2lxkk4.jpg



  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Well, Vintage Peerless pair I'm looking at, look the same as the Danish from the back.

    The US made Peerless and the Clones do not have that same back plate, so I'm going to assume they are Danish made Peerless?
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Here is the pair from the front... Danish???

    q6no76phydre.jpg
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    edited July 15
    Hi,
    Ok, the back plate and the two flats on the magnet mean they are Danish, sent an offer!

    Thanks for the help!!!
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    I wouldn't try and de-solder the leads, just put quick connects on the wires, then solder those if you want after crimping. De-soldering the tabs on the face plate can ruin them fast. many have made that mistake.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    edited July 15
    The only way you know they were made in Denmark is if it says "Made in Denmark". I "believe" that all the ones Polk bought were made in USA and they were making Peerless in the USA from I think 1973 on.

    I have found some on eBay that were 7514XXXX and they had the "Made In USA" sticker on them.

    My 1979 7514s sound better than some 5514s that I have, so maybe it is good you got the 7514s. We don't really know what the first number means though, or at least I don't know of anyone that has explained it. I have seen 1514, 2514, 3514 and those are earlier production ones, but I have seen many 5514 with later production dates than 7514s. There are many different appearances of backplates as well. It's a mess.

    The last four numbers are the date code, with "0380" being 3rd week of 1980. That much is certain.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I wouldn't try and de-solder the leads, just put quick connects on the wires, then solder those if you want after crimping. De-soldering the tabs on the face plate can ruin them fast. many have made that mistake.

    Hi,
    Thanks for that!

    Great info!
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    edited July 15
    The only way you know they were made in Denmark is if it says "Made in Denmark". I "believe" that all the ones Polk bought were made in USA and they were making Peerless in the USA from I think 1973 on.

    I have found some on eBay that were 7514XXXX and they had the "Made In USA" sticker on them.

    My 1979 7514s sound better than some 5514s that I have, so maybe it is good you got the 7514s. We don't really know what the first number means though, or at least I don't know of anyone that has explained it. I have seen 1514, 2514, 3514 and those are earlier production ones, but I have seen many 5514 with later production dates than 7514s. There are many different appearances of backplates as well. It's a mess.

    The last four numbers are the date code, with "0380" being 3rd week of 1980. That much is certain.

    Hi,
    Thanks for the info!

    Here are the Pair I put an offer on and will probably get.

    They have no numbers that I see, but...

    Have the Danish style back plate and the 2 flats on the Magnet...

    That is what I am going on and probably as good as it gets, from info I can dig up!

    aqin1o27dz6f.jpg
    mfnk8h0meh7m.jpg


  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    edited July 15
    Those are definitely modified by Polk with the Aperture Tuning Hole in the dome. Those look like my 1979 7514s and in mine you cannot see the numbering because it is on the faceplate underneath the gasket. Like I said though, I would not assume they were made in Denmark.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Those are definitely modified by Polk with the Aperture Tuning Hole in the dome. Those look like my 1979 7514s and in mine you cannot see the numbering because it is on the faceplate underneath the gasket. Like I said though, I would not assume they were made in Denmark.

    Hi,
    I'm satisfied they are, from the info I can dig up, and not a lot of "Experts" chiming in here?

    We shall see, but I have yet to see an American made, or Chinese made ,Peerless that has the flats and the back plate indentions, or whatever they are?

    Not much else to go on?
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    Internet info is just that, without provenance to an authoritative source, it is often parroted rumor.

    I have so many pictures that I scrounged from eBay that it is nearly impossible to find them all easily. I know I have pictures of 7514s with "Made In USA" stickers. Does that mean that the ones without the stickers are by default Made in Denmark? I dunno.

    Here's some 7514s that have the smooth silver style back plates but these do not have the flats.

    eymf8n7j2i7j.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    edited July 15
    I can tell you that I am certain that this one is Made In Denmark. Do you see a smooth silver back plate with flats? Me neither lol. There are no Chinese made Peerless KO10DT tweeters.

    vrx56gscbh4j.jpg

    bsewxvf4jkqc.jpg

    Here is about the latest production date I have seen; 8th week of 1985. I see a back plate indention. I also see a "Made In USA" sticker.

    o0s05cezye5z.jpg

    8lqdegs20och.jpg

    b5vyux74az3z.jpg

    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,980
    Just dropped in to say Hi....
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    And someone said there were no "experts" chiming in 😁
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform