Polk crs+ Erse Super Q Inductor question

lms
lms Posts: 50
in Vintage Speakers
From the looks of it, Erse no longer sells these?? I found this site; can anyone tell me which one to purchase or point me to a site that sells the correct ones for the sub-bass drive. Thanks.
https://uscoils.us/super-q-coils/
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
«1

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited March 31
    https://uscoils.us/product/ussq55-18-17000/
    You'll need to unwind to the correct value of 16mH, so you'll need a pretty expensive meter to do it correctly. Just so you know, these can have a pretty good +/- factor. My 17mH pair one was over 20mH and the other about 15mH. It would not be wise to use a pair that far apart. So my tech made the 20mH match the 15mH so both were the same yet still under the needed 16mH. I in turn went with the C-coil 3yrs later and have been super happy. Spend once cry once go with the C-coil pair.

    Most of us have used these.
    https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/000-6577-16mh-jantzen-c-coil.html

    https://www.parts-express.com/Jantzen-6577-16mH-14-AWG-C-Coil-Toroidal-Inductor-255-842?quantity=1
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    C-coil it is then. I have never installed these, but my guess is to not mess with the length of the coil. Any tips on connecting them or is it as straight forward as it seems.
    Thank much!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited March 31
    lms wrote: »
    C-coil it is then. I have never installed these, but my guess is to not mess with the length of the coil. Any tips on connecting them or is it as straight forward as it seems.
    Thank much!

    I used male and female qiuck connects. I crimped and soldiered the spade (male) to the coil and made a length of good quality silver coated copper wire crimped and soldiered the female quick connect to put the C-coil as far as I could from the XO. You however do not have much room in the CRS cabinet. The C-coil will need to be mounted to the cabinet, you can use 1 inch plastic clamp hanger
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cantex-1-in-2-Hole-PVC-Clamp-Strap-For-use-with-Schedule-40-and-80-5-Pack-R5133738/202043223
    OR something like this if you can find them large enough
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Plastic-Clamps-Black-4-Pack-PPC-1600UVB/100148325

    Brass or stainless screws may be best.

    @VR3 may have a better suggestion
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    I purchased some solen caps, two, 130's. Those will not be mounted in the same place as the three caps that are there now. Do you think I could mount the C-coil in that space since those caps will be moved?
    Thanks.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    lms wrote: »
    I purchased some solen caps, two, 130's. Those will not be mounted in the same place as the three caps that are there now. Do you think I could mount the C-coil in that space since those caps will be moved?
    Thanks.

    I wouldn't, there is a strong field around that monster.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,382
    I usually mount it to a board and mount away from everything

    fz3nqcbxii8w.jpg
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    edited March 31
    Oh, my lord, the coils are that big? And those crossovers, etc. are unreal.
    How about where the super Q is mounted in this pix, or in that gen area?
    ongf2e85lw42.jpg



    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    They are pretty heavy, I preferred mine on the floor of the cabinet in the corner far away as I could get it. My cabinet is much larger than yours.
    I'll defer to @VR3 he has used them far more than I.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,382
    The c coil needs to be as far away from other inductors as possible
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    Thanks.
    Should I unwind the old wire from the crossover mount?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,978
    lms wrote: »
    Thanks.
    Should I unwind the old wire from the crossover mount?

    I can’t speak for others, but I would get rid of it..
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    And what caps are you using, they look like clarity caps, but i don't see the values that would get one to 260?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    lms wrote: »
    Thanks.
    Should I unwind the old wire from the crossover mount?

    I just unhooked mine and left it alone.
    lms wrote: »
    And what caps are you using, they look like clarity caps, but i don't see the values that would get one to 260?

    The picture @VR3 posted looks to be for the SRS 1.2 NOT a SDA-CRS model. He is a big Clarity cap fan.
    If you would like to save some money I'd be willing to let go of the Erse super Q's I have. Send me a PM and we'll chat.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    Pitdogg is selling me his Erses, so problem solved. Solens ordered as well. Everything else in those boxes has been upgraded, except the TL mod. I even added the baffles that Westmassguy came up with. Right now, I'm fine with the 194's, been in them for years. Maybe down the road I'll take care of that. Granted, my crossover job/parts/etc. looks nothing like VR3's, but it gets the job done.
    The biggest bummer, I just moved. I had a great spot in my last listening room, long walls, nothing next to speakers and the soundstage was unreal. The new spot, well, it's not at all the same. But I still get some of the magic.

    Thanks much all!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    Do you have extra hook up wire ? If not I could send some with the inductors. The inductors will come with both sets of spades.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    I have some, but I was just about to order some more, so I'll take some if have a little to spare.
    Thanks again!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    The solens arrived, my god these are big. Putting these in the small cabinets wasn't easy. I mounted them on a board with zip ties and attached them to the floor of the speaker, right next to where the interconnect wires are and out of the way of the PR. I'm not sure where I'm going to mount the erse, my thoughts are to the back of one of the baffles. It's getting cramped in there though. We will see how this works out.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,382
    You can always go to an external back pack type build
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,978
    Those solens are too big for the cabinets IMO.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    edited April 8
    Alrighty then. Found a spot for the inductors and installed one in the right speaker and tested. My testing is basically turning the balance knob back and forth, over and over, sitting in chair and listening. High tech! Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but it sure sounds like the bass, to a certain degree because it's just the dimensional x-over, is tighter and well, not as deep as the speaker I didn't change. What has everyone else experienced with these inductors?
    I also tested the same way with the solens in one, not the other, and I can clearly tell after they burned in for a day, that the overall sound from that driver is clearer.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,655
    is tighter and well, not as boomy as the speaker I didn't change.
    Fixed it for you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    F1nut wrote: »
    is tighter and well, not as boomy as the speaker I didn't change.
    Fixed it for you.

    Thats what I was looking for.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    It usually takes a good amount of time to burn in new caps. You may experience great sound then OMG WTH did I do moments before you go, MAN this is sweet !
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    It usually takes a good amount of time to burn in new caps. You may experience great sound then OMG WTH did I do moments before you go, MAN this is sweet !

    Which is what I'm doing right now. I have my rig on 24/7 right now, has been this way for 4 days as I just installed some Odam caps and some better resistors in a tube pre I have. I'll install the other inductor tonight, button them all up and let them marinate until this weekend.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    Uh oh, did I make a mistake? I was just looking through the different schematics and my speakers are blade, blade. In other words, did I just install the wrong inductors?
    fi092hb53igo.png


    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,718
    edited April 9
    If you installed any values other than those above, I'd say yes. Unless it is a trick question
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    Not a trick, I got caught up and didn't do my homework. Assumed all crs's had 16mh inductors. No wonder it sounded, off. Fark. Oh well, out they come, hooking the old ones back up for now. If anyone in the future posts that they are looking for 16mh, have them message me.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,382
    Just unwind it to the right value
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • lms
    lms Posts: 50
    I have no idea how to do that right.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,980
    lms wrote: »
    I have no idea how to do that right.

    220, 221 whatever it takes...
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter