Oil

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Comments

  • Posts: 7,085
    Go to BMW Car Club of America and see what the owners say.
    BMW specifies a maintenance interval that costs them the bare minimum (since they are covering it) to get the vehicle past the warranty period and past the typical new car loan period. How many 200K mile BMWs have you seen on the road lately? Probably none unless they are older cars that were maintained to the schedule recommended by the Club I mentioned.
    The club had a legendary member named Mike Miller who published what they call the Lifetime Maintenance Schedule. You can still find it on the Internet and you will see it calls for much more frequent oil changes along with a slew of other fluid changes that BMW does not call for in their factory free maintenance schedule.

  • Posts: 1,438
    edited January 25
    I do severe duty on my 97 Tahoe which I believe is 3,000 miles?
    But, all our miles are stop and go short trips in town. Seriously doubt our engine & trans gets to operating temps other than warm ups in the winter.
  • Posts: 14,871
    I've been using AMSOIL in everything since I got the Lightning in 2001.

    All the Fords and Lincolns get Motorcraft filters too. Unless I can't find them then it's Purolator One. That's air, oil, cabin and fuel too.

    I change oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Which ever comes first. I don't really go anywhere anymore since I work from home so I have hit the 6 month mark on oil changes.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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  • Posts: 1,819
    edited January 26
    boston1450 wrote: »
    Mobile 1 is good oil for Toyota's. I buy all my filters from dealership.

    Toyota 0W-20 and dealer filter for our Highlander....I change it myself. The Toyota oil is a very good oil, and I prefer it over the M1...Toyota has a better anti-wear add pack.

    Our other GM vehicles get the M1 ES. I would run Redline but just too $$$ for the 5K changes.

  • Posts: 327
    boston1450 wrote: »
    Oil. Buy 2-3 5qt's.You will use it...Toyota says change oil at EVERY 10,000 miles.. I did 1st one at 1000 miles. Then at 5000 then 10,000 miles &every 5000 after.. So Toyota dealerships say every 10,000 miles SO your motor gets clogged up at 120,000 miles & destroys your motor. If you own a Toyota do yourself a favor & watch on YouTube Car-Care-Nut he is the man. Service & maintain your own car OR find a service station that KNOWS what they are doing - pay the man.... My last new vehicle had a issue. I went into a dealership (Emerson's Toyota in Auburn Maine) & I told them the oil control valve is stuck & needs to be replaced. I waited 1.5 hours & they pulled it out & said make a appt. WHAT. I went down the road & bought a oil control valve for 100.00 & I grabbed a 10mm wrench & put a aftermarket OCV on it in 3 mins. I paid dealership 80.00 & I complained as I left because they did not have one.. I asked them to take one off a vehicle in the lot. Nope.. Needless to say. I got home. Called Topsham Toyota & ordered a OEM & when it came in i installed a OEM ocv in truck. I hate dealerships. I only use OEM parts,period..

    I've been going to him since he opened his shop, he's a stand up guy.
  • Posts: 4,574
    Since the topic is just "oil" maybe that gives some latitude to go off on tangents.

    I think Project Farm on YouTube has done some interesting testing of motor oils and oil additives/friction reducers. I will be trying the MotorKote additive, based upon one of his videos at my next oil change which is soon. He has also tested Mobil 1 as well as Toyota, etc..

    https://www.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm/search?query=oil

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88vwUwa3igQ

    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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  • Posts: 1,438
    I really enjoy the Project Farm fella and his videos.
    Have purchase quite a few of his recommends and haven’t been disappointed yet.
  • Posts: 5,605
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • Posts: 10,450
    I still use Slick 50 and Split-fire spark plugs.

    j/k. Are those still around?
    I disabled signatures.
  • Posts: 7,085
    edited January 27
    msg wrote: »
    I still use Slick 50 and Split-fire spark plugs.

    j/k. Are those still around?

    Split Fire is kaput. FTC charges for deceptive advertising effectively ruined them.
    Slick 50 is still available, but I'm not sure I would use it in a modern engine. I recall some reports that it could clog up tiny oil passages. I'd be worried about that issue affecting cam phasers or other oil pressure controlled engine features like cylinder deactivation.
  • Posts: 26,027
    edited January 27
    billbillw wrote: »

    Split Fire is kaput. FTC charges for deceptive advertising effectively ruined them.
    Slick 50 is still available, but I'm not sure I would use it in a modern engine. I recall some reports that it could clog up tiny oil passages. I'd be worried about that issue affecting cam phasers or other oil pressure controlled engine features like cylinder deactivation.

    Slick 50 with teflon is no longer, has not been for several years if not 10. PTFE liabilities were too numerous to continue.
    The E3 plugs work very well in small engines, they also make them for vehicles, I've never tried them in mine nor do I know anyone that has.
  • Posts: 4,574
    I've been using the E3 plugs in my 96 Honda Civic EX auto trans with almost 150k miles on it and getting a solid 35mpg, which is the EPA rating. Ran noticeably better after install.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Posts: 7,696
    gmcman wrote: »

    Toyota 0W-20 and dealer filter for our Highlander....I change it myself. The Toyota oil is a very good oil, and I prefer it over the M1...Toyota has a better anti-wear add pack.

    Our other GM vehicles get the M1 ES. I would run Redline but just too $$$ for the 5K changes.

    Agree. I buy all my fluids thru dealership. I did a ton of research on chemicals & it made sense so I don't mind paying extra ESPECIALLY as I do all the work myself. What I save in labor-i put toward materials. When I use the Taco I open the tailgate often so I deal with multiple dealerships for parts as well. I'm on my 2 Tacoma & it's been fun. I jumped on the 10y 100,000 mile Platinum warranty for all the big issues
    ..
  • Posts: 7,696
    charley96 wrote: »

    I've been going to him since he opened his shop, he's a stand up guy.

    If I wasn't so far away I would use him. I've learned a ton of stuff from his video's. He is honest & you know he will do it right.
    ..
  • Posts: 7,696
    edited January 27
    Btw. When I got my 2020 I did what the dealership said I needed to do. I learn my lesson. I went 10,000 miles & dealership did the first 2 oil changes. 10 & 20,000 miles. I was new to Toyota's. As I approached 10,000 miles. I did not like the looks of the oil on the dipstick. It was the Bullet Proof 2.7 4 cyl . They changed the oil. Then I did it myself at 15,000 mile & then dealership did 20,000 mile (last one FREE from them) then I continued every 5000 miles after . I was traveling to daughters house when the OCV stopped working. I always have tool box & code reader in vehicles I own. I just didn't have spare Oil Control Valve with me. I pulled it out. Tested it & sure enough it was gone. These are known to go bad if oil is dirty. At 37,000 miles on odometer that is a sure sign of early oil changes were neglected. I'm sure not all cars are like this.. But I agree with Car Care Nut who is top notch Toyota certified that once vehicle gets up in mileage (150,000) miles you may be looking at major problems.. I now have the 2023 3.5L 6cly (last of the 3rd Gen 6cyl) & I learn a few things by CCN & tons of research I've donemv18ontnv3ds.png 2023 & 2020
    ..
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  • Posts: 28,994
    not gonna lie... the first 100k on a toyota is darn near bulletproof...

    dare I say the first 150k!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Posts: 7,696
    edited January 28
    Kex wrote: »

    How much did the warranty cost? In the past 20 years, I’ve never had a vehicle have a failure in the first 10 years or 100,000 miles…

    Can't remember without looking at paperwork. It is the Platinum pkg. It may be listed online. It was over 2 grand. I look at it this way. If a motor, tranny, diff or even starter fails it is covered with no/little deductible. It will get me 5 years with no worries is how I look at it.. Time is my issue. I don't have time to work on vehicle I travel with. I have other vehicles & can have them pick this up/drop off if need be. Between work & traveling I don't have time...edit. I just looked & I'm not sure what amount is. 1995.00 Will follow up on it. I just need to make sure it makes it to retirement in 3 years. I think it will.
    Post edited by boston1450 on
    ..
  • Posts: 1,380
    I've never owned a Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.0 L that didn't hit 300,000 even if I wasn't regular with oil changes. I owned one that had piston slap it's whole life and I sold it with over 330,000. It's usually the body that falls apart.
  • Posts: 1,819
    boston1450 wrote: »
    Agree. I buy all my fluids thru dealership. I did a ton of research on chemicals & it made sense so I don't mind paying extra ESPECIALLY as I do all the work myself.

    I was surprised the Toyota 0W-20 at the dealer was pretty much the same price as the M1...but the Toyota oil looks to have a better add-pack so a no-brainer. That's the only time I buy oil from the dealer.

  • Posts: 7,696
    Kex wrote: »

    How much did the warranty cost? In the past 20 years, I’ve never had a vehicle have a failure in the first 10 years or 100,000 miles…

    Oh yes. With the way they are made - why would you have a need for a warranty :#
    ..
  • Posts: 19,490
    invalid wrote: »
    I've never owned a Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.0 L that didn't hit 300,000 even if I wasn't regular with oil changes. I owned one that had piston slap it's whole life and I sold it with over 330,000. It's usually the body that falls apart.

    I am up to 474K on mine. Luckily, the body and cab are in great shape. Looking forward to hitting that half a million mile mark....maybe this year. Maybe next. Who knows?

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Posts: 7,696
    That's what you call getting your money worth out of a vehicle. My brother has a Chevy 2500 & it's got very high mileage. Unfortunately I'n Maine it has major rust issues.
    ..
  • Posts: 2,469
    edited January 29
    I change my oil every 5k on a 2021 RAV4, I go to the dealer, when they bring the car out It check the oil right away. I does crack me up when they say I need to change my cabin filter or air filter. I do those myself. Once in a while I'll take it to a local guy who charges a tad more but I trust what he says is needed.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
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  • Posts: 13,032
    edited January 29
    Can't really go wrong with 5k or once a year. And it's debatable if you even need to do it right on the one year mark, I think the fear of oxidation/oxygen exposure with modern synthetics is overblown.
  • Posts: 2,632
    Kex wrote: »
    i9pyzxlallwr.jpeg

    Now THAT is living in a forest......

    I used to keep track of the mileage, but my current truck tells me when I need to change my oil. I use my military discount on full synthetic and change my filter every other oil change.

    As long as I'm able to do it myself, I'll keep saving a few $$ here and there.

    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
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  • Posts: 2,632
    Kex wrote: »
    I applaud you, Sir, for your intrepid commitment! 😂

    Mine all squeal too when they need an oil change

    LOL no dude, my truck is tad more sophisticated than making noises.....I get a read out on my instrument panel. When the oil change is fresh, it's at 100%, of course the percentage declines as the milage increases. I also get a picture of the vehicle that displays all four tires with individual tire pressure readings (so long as my sensors are correct lol).

    This truck does more than I ask it too, for example, If I'm involved in an accident, it will tell me, "You've been in an accident", to which I then reply, "Go F yourself, I knew before you did!!!"

    As far as your mountain cabin, I wish I had it and you had a feather up your backside, then we'd both be tickled.....lol j/k
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman

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