Radial resistors

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Answers

  • Posts: 124
    F1nut wrote: »
    Mills...brighter? LOL

    It's hard to say as I also replaced (upgraded?) with Dayton tweeters. They seem to have the same top end, but handle the midranges slightly better, imo.
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  • Posts: 1,387
    How did the Mills resistors make yours speakers sound brighter, when the scientific evidence should be to the contrary?
  • Posts: 124
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.

    Only guessing here, but I would think CAPs have an even greater effect on sound, than resistors?
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  • Posts: 51,169
    toolbelt wrote: »

    Only guessing here, but I would think CAPs have an even greater effect on sound, than resistors?

    Exactly
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  • Posts: 51,169
    ChrisD06 wrote: »

    Yeah my M5JR+ got brighter, whether it was with the SL2000 or the RD0198, after putting in the Mills resistors.

    The RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter for those speakers.

    Mills and other high quality resistors are not as noisy, so the sound is cleaner, but cleaner isn't brighter unless the better resistors are exposing issues upstream.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 908
    F1nut wrote: »

    The RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter for those speakers.

    Mills and other high quality resistors are not as noisy, so the sound is cleaner, but cleaner isn't brighter unless the better resistors are exposing issues upstream.

    I did the TL mod (I rebuilt crossover to Series 2 specs). It shouldn't have made anything brighter as it was just a cap bump (which would lower tweeter XO point) so my guess, like I mentioned, is that my poly switches were tripped which is definitely it because the treble was super dull compared to my RT3000p. Now it's brighter. My only guess is that the DCR of the inductor is slightly higher on the Series 2 but it's a colorful brightness so I actually like it.
  • Posts: 51,169
    So, you replaced the 12uF with a 13.5uF?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 4,593
    edited October 2023
    ChrisD06 wrote: »

    I did the TL mod (I rebuilt crossover to Series 2 specs). It shouldn't have made anything brighter as it was just a cap bump (which would lower tweeter XO point) so my guess, like I mentioned, is that my poly switches were tripped which is definitely it because the treble was super dull compared to my RT3000p. Now it's brighter. My only guess is that the DCR of the inductor is slightly higher on the Series 2 but it's a colorful brightness so I actually like it.

    It's a contour network, not a "cap bump". That combination of R in parallel with C is when you have a trailing off response with increasing frequency, to correct that. So in a sense it does make things brighter, compared to if it was just a resistor.

    Oh sorry. You didn't do the TL "mod" per se. You did the built from scratch crossover that Polk came up with for the Series II.

    Nevermind.
    George / NJ

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  • Posts: 908
    F1nut wrote: »
    So, you replaced the 12uF with a 13.5uF?

    13.6uF, yes. I ran two ClarityCap PX 250V 6.8uF caps in parallel.
  • Posts: 26,186
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