Radial resistors
toolbelt
Posts: 124
in Electronics
What is everybody replacing radial resistors with? I need a 5W 2.5 ohm radial resistor or similar preferably for a Polk crossover. 
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever
Answers
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Just use a 12W Vishay/Mills and mount it vertically if you so desire. The leads that are supplied are probably long enough for the upper end to still be soldered into PCB.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Unfortunately, 2 of those to Canada, will run about $75+. I can't really justify that additional expense for small bookshelf speakers that are 20 yrs old which I purchased as demo units for $100.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Unfortunately, 2 of those to Canada, will run about $75+. I can't really justify that additional expense for small bookshelf speakers that are 20 yrs old which I purchased as demo units for $100.
Does PartsConnexion sell the resistors you want?
They're as Canadian as... well... some would say maple syrup, but, since I am in Northern New England, I'd never say that.
https://partsconnexion.com/
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mhardy6647 wrote: »
Unfortunately, 2 of those to Canada, will run about $75+. I can't really justify that additional expense for small bookshelf speakers that are 20 yrs old which I purchased as demo units for $100.
Does PartsConnexion sell the resistors you want?
They're as Canadian as... well... some would say maple syrup, but, since I am in Northern New England, I'd never say that.
https://partsconnexion.com/
Unfortunately they don't list the exact same ohmage. They have 2.7 Ohm, but I'm trying not to alter component values. Not sure if 2.5 ohm was an oddball value out in the world. I've come across multiple listings of radial style (per OE Polk) in higher and lower values running in the $1.72 range.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Awesome. They're actually only about 30 mins away from me and offer a pick up option. Just confirming that its ok to bend the leads (being careful not to bend them near the ceramic body)? Can hot glue be used near them, or do they get hot and just melt the glue?Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
You don't ever want to use hotmelt glue or anything else that would reduce convection/conduction of heat from the resistor. Yeah just put a pair of needle nose or hemostats on the lead near the body and bend against that to not stress the point of exit. Probably more of an issue for caps though.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
looks like the leads are about 1/4" longer than the body so i'll have to bend it fairly close to the body in order to reach the board with the top lead. Is it ok to solder the leads fairly close to the body, as the bottom end of the body will need to be touching the board for mounting upright?Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Yep you'll have to. If you have room, try clipping a pair of hemostats to the lead as a heatsink while soldering.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
One may also add "pigtails"* if needed to extend the length of the leads.
I -- ahem -- keep a pill bottle full of offcuts of component leads for just such puposes. Not that I'd admit that just anywhere.
*They're called "pigtails" because, for best results, one (or both) leads in the "splice" are tightly twisted together a few times, then soldered.
Back in the old days, e.g., Sprague (now SBE) capacitors used to include little solder-saturated "springs" for capacitor replacement using "orange drops". This is a classic trick for doing point to point re-work. One may cut the old component out, leaving a useable length of the old leads still connected to the circuit, then attach the new component to the stubs. Yes, it is a bit "low rent" but it is a viable (and time-honored) service technique, which I learned from a old service person (to whom I was quite closely related)
The act of soldering one joint will not melt the other, as long as one is reasonably adept at soldering.
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If I ever attempt a point to point crossover I'm going to try 4N copper crimping sleeves to minimize the solder used.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
mhardy6647 wrote: »One may also add "pigtails"* if needed to extend the length of the leads.
I -- ahem -- keep a pill bottle full of offcuts of component leads for just such puposes. Not that I'd admit that just anywhere.
*They're called "pigtails" because, for best results, one (or both) leads in the "splice" are tightly twisted together a few times, then soldered. Back in the old days, e.g., Sprague (now SBE) capacitors used to include little solder-saturated "springs" for capacitor replacement using "orange drops". This is a classic trick for doing point to point re-work. One may cut the old component out, leaving a useable length of the old leads still connected to the circuit, then attach the new component to the stubs. Yes, it is a bit "low rent" but it is a viable (and time-honored) service technique, which I learned from a old service person (to whom I was quite closely related)
The act of soldering one joint will not melt the other, as long as one is reasonably adept at soldering.
So I should try my soldering iron rather than using my plumber's torch then?
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder, you'll thank me later.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder, you'll thank me later.
It's a more money but well worth it. -
Well I went to PC today and instead of MRA12's, he suggested MRA5's instead. And while the price differ was negligible, my original intent was to restore, not upgrade these speakers. The leads on these are plenty long enough to mount vertically. Switching from a generic Polk resistor to Mills could be considered an upgrade in itself, even though the wattage and resistance are the same. He surmised my tweeters shorted, causing the resistors to blow. As I'm replacing the tweeters with new Daytons, oe spec branded resistors are sufficient enough. The tweeters in both speakers were shot, as were the same resistors on both boards. The other resistor is still perfectly in spec on both speakers. If these were my daily speakers and not just backups for my backups (neither of which I have a need for), I likely would have done a full upgrade. This was more of a learning experience.Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Well all installed and readings checked. Comments/opinions?
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Very good solder work, just clean your flux with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush and some q-tips.
The resistor has good breathing room so it'll stay cool. Nice bends too.
Personally, I'd replace the other resistors as Mills resistors seem brighter in my opinion and you might notice some sonic differences which could bother you. If you don't notice the differences then don't bother. -
Very good solder work, just clean your flux with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush and some q-tips.
The resistor has good breathing room so it'll stay cool. Nice bends too.
Personally, I'd replace the other resistors as Mills resistors seem brighter in my opinion and you might notice some sonic differences which could bother you. If you don't notice the differences then don't bother.
The flux in the picture is Polk's, not mine. lol As for the bends, the loops were determined by the lengths required in order to reach back to the board, while still maintaining some breathing room off the board. I would have preferred slightly longer leads but they did the job. At this point, the speakers are back in service for now, but I'll be putting them on a shelf in the basement along with my temporary replacement XT15's (which I'm passively trying to sell) and switching back to my new (used) RTIA3's. While I was at it, I refoamed my CV U-12's, which have also been taking up space in my basement for almost 30 years. lolPolk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever -
Very good solder work, just clean your flux with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush and some q-tips.
The resistor has good breathing room so it'll stay cool. Nice bends too.
Personally, I'd replace the other resistors as Mills resistors seem brighter in my opinion and you might notice some sonic differences which could bother you. If you don't notice the differences then don't bother.
The flux in the picture is Polk's, not mine. lol As for the bends, the loops were determined by the lengths required in order to reach back to the board, while still maintaining some breathing room off the board. I would have preferred slightly longer leads but they did the job. At this point, the speakers are back in service for now, but I'll be putting them on a shelf in the basement along with my temporary replacement XT15's (which I'm passively trying to sell) and switching back to my new (used) RTIA3's. While I was at it, I refoamed my CV U-12's, which have also been taking up space in my basement for almost 30 years. lol
Sounds like you've been bitten by the audio bug. Welcome to the club lol. -
Mills...brighter? LOLPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Mills...brighter? LOL
Isn't this the same guy that can't hear a difference with better cables?Post edited by invalid on -
Fixed it
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Thanks -
Mills...brighter? LOL
Yeah my M5JR+ got brighter, whether it was with the SL2000 or the RD0198, after putting in the Mills resistors. -
Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.
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Shouldn’t you be in class today?
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.
To quote dbe from Parts-Express forum: "The difference in resistor is a simple, verifiable one. It boils down to TCR in the resistor. A standard resistor has a TCR in the 500-1000 ppm and a Mills is 20 ppm. This equates to less HF hash around cymbals and other steep transients. The easy way to tell without burning your brain up is in extended listening tests where the degree of listening fatigue is the clue to untrained listeners. A trained listener will pick a Mills out 10/10 in A/B/X."
So the Mills have an actual measurable scientific difference. Also it appears that because of this, I was definitely tripping or my old resistors managed to gain impedance due to heat degradation...
...or, what just popped in my head now, the polyswitches were tripped (this is definitely it lol) and I forgot they even existed in the first place. I'll have to do a proper test with my RT3000p when I rebuild them next summer. -
Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.
They're usually pretty quiet.
I guess if you put a whole bunch in a paper bag and gave 'em a good shake -- they'd kinda rustle.
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Very good solder work, just clean your flux with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush and some q-tips.
The resistor has good breathing room so it'll stay cool. Nice bends too.
Personally, I'd replace the other resistors as Mills resistors seem brighter in my opinion and you might notice some sonic differences which could bother you. If you don't notice the differences then don't bother.
The flux in the picture is Polk's, not mine. lol As for the bends, the loops were determined by the lengths required in order to reach back to the board, while still maintaining some breathing room off the board. I would have preferred slightly longer leads but they did the job. At this point, the speakers are back in service for now, but I'll be putting them on a shelf in the basement along with my temporary replacement XT15's (which I'm passively trying to sell) and switching back to my new (used) RTIA3's. While I was at it, I refoamed my CV U-12's, which have also been taking up space in my basement for almost 30 years. lol
Sounds like you've been bitten by the audio bug. Welcome to the club lol.
I knew you were going to mention that as you warned me previously, but I suspect my sudden interest will go dormant again until something else blows up, likely in another 20+ years, although I do have plans for a proper HT setup in my basement, which I completely refinished just 2+ years ago for my daughter, who has since rented a house with her BF 75 miles away. I had to modify my previously built HT infrastructure which I built almost 30 yrs ago when a 32" tv was considered SOTA. They had their tv and fireplace mounted on it so I just need to add my own equipment at some point in the future.
Polk RTIA3 Fronts
Polk CSIA4 Center
Polk PSW Sub
Pioneer VSX-521-K AVR
And a friendly Labrador Retriever
