Radial resistors

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  • toolbelt
    toolbelt Posts: 124
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Mills...brighter? LOL

    It's hard to say as I also replaced (upgraded?) with Dayton tweeters. They seem to have the same top end, but handle the midranges slightly better, imo.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,294
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    How did the Mills resistors make yours speakers sound brighter, when the scientific evidence should be to the contrary?
  • toolbelt
    toolbelt Posts: 124
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    Clipdat wrote: »
    Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.

    Only guessing here, but I would think CAPs have an even greater effect on sound, than resistors?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,874
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    toolbelt wrote: »
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Nah bro, placebo effect, you're full of ****. All resistors sound the same.

    Only guessing here, but I would think CAPs have an even greater effect on sound, than resistors?

    Exactly
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,874
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Mills...brighter? LOL

    Yeah my M5JR+ got brighter, whether it was with the SL2000 or the RD0198, after putting in the Mills resistors.

    The RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter for those speakers.

    Mills and other high quality resistors are not as noisy, so the sound is cleaner, but cleaner isn't brighter unless the better resistors are exposing issues upstream.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    F1nut wrote: »
    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Mills...brighter? LOL

    Yeah my M5JR+ got brighter, whether it was with the SL2000 or the RD0198, after putting in the Mills resistors.

    The RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter for those speakers.

    Mills and other high quality resistors are not as noisy, so the sound is cleaner, but cleaner isn't brighter unless the better resistors are exposing issues upstream.

    I did the TL mod (I rebuilt crossover to Series 2 specs). It shouldn't have made anything brighter as it was just a cap bump (which would lower tweeter XO point) so my guess, like I mentioned, is that my poly switches were tripped which is definitely it because the treble was super dull compared to my RT3000p. Now it's brighter. My only guess is that the DCR of the inductor is slightly higher on the Series 2 but it's a colorful brightness so I actually like it.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,874
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    So, you replaced the 12uF with a 13.5uF?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,209
    edited October 2023
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Mills...brighter? LOL

    Yeah my M5JR+ got brighter, whether it was with the SL2000 or the RD0198, after putting in the Mills resistors.

    The RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter for those speakers.

    Mills and other high quality resistors are not as noisy, so the sound is cleaner, but cleaner isn't brighter unless the better resistors are exposing issues upstream.

    I did the TL mod (I rebuilt crossover to Series 2 specs). It shouldn't have made anything brighter as it was just a cap bump (which would lower tweeter XO point) so my guess, like I mentioned, is that my poly switches were tripped which is definitely it because the treble was super dull compared to my RT3000p. Now it's brighter. My only guess is that the DCR of the inductor is slightly higher on the Series 2 but it's a colorful brightness so I actually like it.

    It's a contour network, not a "cap bump". That combination of R in parallel with C is when you have a trailing off response with increasing frequency, to correct that. So in a sense it does make things brighter, compared to if it was just a resistor.

    Oh sorry. You didn't do the TL "mod" per se. You did the built from scratch crossover that Polk came up with for the Series II.

    Nevermind.
    George / NJ

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  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    F1nut wrote: »
    So, you replaced the 12uF with a 13.5uF?

    13.6uF, yes. I ran two ClarityCap PX 250V 6.8uF caps in parallel.