Monitor 7b purchase now Mod time

You can drill holes in the pcb just be mindful of where exactly you are drilling

Sumbrada69 wrote: »

Hello all, I did not finish the 7s crossover yet, I had shoulder surgery so don't have that hand for a few more weeks. At the polk forum it has schematics but appears none for 7A and early Bs with peerless tweeters. On my crossover and a few I have seen here it has a 4.5 ohm resistor on the tweeter (which I have Mills) but all the schematics are 2 or 2.5 and have polyswitch and the other tweeters. Is there that much difference in the tweeters? I am not switching but am surprised that schematic is not up there.
What gauge wire for tweeter and woofer connections.? I got 13G (2.5) supra classic wire from Madisound. [OFC stranded] Should it be smaller? Stranded or Solid (like Danny GR Research) Litz is too much for me.
I got gold plated push on connectors for the MWs, Passive, Binding posts. Ok? Or only solder joints?
What do all use just use; a soldering iron or also a soldering gun (higher output). I have both,iron is temp. controlled. Thanks

It's too bad the early schematics aren't there but it is what it is and I've never heard the why. It's not just that the tweeter is "that much different" (which it is) but also that they designed the crossover for the Peerless to be voiced with the MW6500 which has different T/S parameters from the MW6502 which they went with when they went with the SL2000 and even with the SL1000 for a short transitional period.

OEM wire gages were very small. From memory maybe 22 awg for the tweeter, 18awg for the MW. I have to double check. I went with Neotech solid 12awg for the MW (pretty non flexible to say the least) and Cardas Litz 15.5awg for the tweeter and Cardas Litz 11.5awg for the binding post to PCB wires.

Litz has to be soldered with the aid of a solder pot, unless you strip it. I tried both stripping it with a wire wheel on a dremel and then tinning with Wonder Signature (many use Cardas Quad Eutectic) and the solder pot and I preferred the results with the former.

You don't need connectors for the Passive lol, but I used the gold plated fastons for the drivers. I purchased Cardas Binding posts, the short ones (I'd use long next time) with the flash rhodium over heavy silver plating and the best method I believe was to use gold plated copper ring terminals along with the gold plated nuts supplied by Cardas. Soldering to these heavy posts is difficult and requires a very high powered soldering iron or better yet a torch which is what I did on one of them, trying to decide what is best. I'd just use the ring terminals really.

For doing the soldering on the PCB and back flowing the crimped connectors I used a temp. controlled soldering iron station. I have a higher powered Weller Soldering Gun which wasn't really adequate for the heavy Cardas binding posts so I used a torch, but again I'd just use the ring terminals because it is easier and makes a solid connection. Oh and I had to drill the ring terminals out for the Cardas posts which was a bit of a PIA because they had to be held down with a couple screw heads onto a piece of plywood for drilling with the drill press.