Monitor 7b purchase now Mod time

2

Comments

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    How bout y'all cronies stop trying to use ridicule to influence what can and can't be said on the forum in order to preserve your comfy zone status quo? I will relate my mods experiences no matter how much ridicule and I'm not here to appease anyone. Everyone will of course do what they will with their own speakers and enjoy this hobby to the max.

    WOW!!! Please show me where I was ridiculing you? Please show me where I was telling you not to share?

    Sharing and Selling your be all end all is two completely different things..

    I shared my modifications, shared my thoughts on them, I like them, phase plug, full monty, and all. Rob did a great job, and I don't care who likes or dislikes them.

    I am not telling anyone to do them or not do them, I am simply just stating to start with the basics that have been being done for years now. Start there, one can always cross over to the dark side if they so choose, these are very easy speakers to work on, and learn from, if nothing else.

    And I will stand by my words, that people will be very happy with that, and not bother with getting to crazy with other mods.

    You on the other hand are trying to sell your experience to everyone that pops in here, and wants to update the crossovers, and tweeters.

    Everyone needs to follow Gardensnake as the dictator of his be all end all mods, or they will fall short of enjoying their speakers..

    We all see where Jesse, and Rob rib each other on may subjects, but we also see where they respect each other now and then as well. funny thing is none of us see that with you.

    You are definitely an individual that needs to feel superior to others, nobody here is that stupid, we all see it for who you are..

    Sometimes it's just best to STFU sometimes, and roll with the flow..

    With me wasting my time here, I will kindly move on and STFU as well.

    Have a great and wonderful day...

    Well mister you certainly proved me wrong (not)! Describing my experiences to people on an open forum isn't "selling", and even if you perceive it as such I would submit that maybe a public forum isn't really your thing and you'd be better off sticking to PM, email, telephone etc.. For your information I was not only speaking to you but "Gardensnake" certainly falls under the ridicule definition. How bout we broaden it to the 3 R's (ridicule, reprimand, and reproach)?

    I've been on this planet for many decades and I know that there are plenty of people who are the greatest people you will ever meet as long as you agree with them.

    I'm happy with a few quality friends here on this forum.

    And just to disspell some of your misinformation about me, I have said to every newbie that comes along asking about mods, that I did the standard mods first and I did them one at a time before moving on to what I would call uber mods (I've done 7 so far). The only reason I discussed the braces is because the OP was already expressing interest in them and was onto the concept. You think I stepped over some line, then you need to get over yourself lol. Should I regret complimenting and liking some of your work I have seen you share while I've been on this forum??....nope I stand by that! There ya go a little compliment.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • mrbigbluelight
    mrbigbluelight Posts: 9,712
    a little compliment

    Let'see ....🤔....
    ...Larry's Rings....

    'nuff said 🤔
    Sal Palooza
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    Wow! Did not mean to start a verbal war! We all have our opinions, knowledge, and experience.
    I have peerless will keep for sure. Love the sound of silk tweeters. Got them for my car.
    I was planning on keeping the fuse and clean up and rewire with much better wire (fuse and whole internals). No high end fuse don't believe in it.
    I will try 2 braces, the added rigidity is good and I love tight bass.
    I will try the Claritycap, Jantzen mix can always change later
    I am using Sonic Barrier (MW piece) and Dynamat (Cages) inside.
    Thanks for all your information. Build starts soon. Waiting for parts.
    I am going to start a new discussion. Power amps for the 7s and 10s. But not high end. How about vintage or close. Should bring some heat.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,493
    The Dynamat Xtreme goes on the outside of the basket. A strip on every spoke is plenty.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    That's what I was planning on doing. Thank you for your help.
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    Not trying to start bashing. Forums are for knowledge, experience, and personal choices.
    Peerless was one of the main reasons I got them. Love the sound of silk tweeters.
    I do not plan on getting rid of the fuse just new wire here and throughout the speaker. Some 13 gauge OFC from Madisound.
    I will try 2 braces, possibly 3 in triangle, the added rigidity is good and the improved bass is a desired effect.
    Claritycap, Jantzen resistor mix or should i go Mundorf MOX? Can upgrade later.
    I am using Sonic Barrier (MW piece) and Dynamat (Cages) inside.
    Thanks for all your information. Build starts soon. Waiting for parts.
    Another topic, related but different. Suggested power amps, used ~150+ W/Ch. using either Yamaha AVR or Vintage Marantz receiver pre-amp outs. I want something with more Current punch for the 7s and 10s in 2 channel mode. Adcom, Parasound, B&K or? Thanks
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited August 3
    One thing to keep in mind with these fuseblocks is, the way Polk wired them, there is steel in the signal path. I'm not an electrical engineer but I know that Danny Richie is always saying no ferromagnetic material in the signal path. He points out that the sandcast resistors have steel end caps and he points out how many (expensive even) speakers people send in to him have steel in the binding posts, sometimes only the nuts but other times more than that. It probably has to do with self inductance or something due to a stronger magnetic field.

    In this case it is the rivet that holds the brass or phosphor bronze spring contacts to the plastic body. In order to hide the wires Polk spot drilled the heads and soldered the wires to that. When I redid mine I didn't like the steel but wasn't aware of Danny Richie. I kept the Polk configuration.

    One option if you are willing to have the wires show a little bit on the outside, is to solder to the end tabs. Or, if you don't mind the inconvenience the fuse could be moved to the inside. After all
    you only have 4 screws to remove to check it.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,493
    Fuse block from 7B.
    rhagzs3zx3hy.jpg

    Do yourself a favor, eliminate and bypass it altogether.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    I understand the fuse block issue. Such small amount of steel could effect things I guess, but having the protection to the tweeters especially with the very limited availability for replacements overrides the very slight possible induction issue. Replacing the wires with good and good solder (Cardas) will be my first plan. Can be changed later. Bringing the wires out and directly to the clips isolates them better but now you have to seal the wires for air leaks (can be done). I do not want to put them inside as visual inspection will be hampered. Geesh the binding posts I'm getting even have steel but plated parts. I know much better ones may not have any steel but I am not spending that much at this time. Law of Diminishing Returns! Got to figure out what replacement or mods gives you the best Bang for Buck as your electronics source, available funds, and "aging ears" make more difference than very slight possible inductance change.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    edited August 3
    Sumbrada69 wrote: »
    I understand the fuse block issue. Such small amount of steel could effect things I guess, but having the protection to the tweeters especially with the very limited availability for replacements overrides the very slight possible induction issue. Replacing the wires with good and good solder (Cardas) will be my first plan. Can be changed later. Bringing the wires out and directly to the clips isolates them better but now you have to seal the wires for air leaks (can be done). I do not want to put them inside as visual inspection will be hampered. Geesh the binding posts I'm getting even have steel but plated parts. I know much better ones may not have any steel but I am not spending that much at this time. Law of Diminishing Returns! Got to figure out what replacement or mods gives you the best Bang for Buck as your electronics source, available funds, and "aging ears" make more difference than very slight possible inductance change.

    Up to you :smile: . If I did it again I might still keep the fuse but only because I am using vintage equipment, but I believe what I would do is mount the fuse inside with the single aluminum rivet that is in the center going from inside to outside. This would allow me to solder the Cardas Litz wires that I used to the spring fuse holder tabs and there would be no steel in the signal path any longer. It has been a few years since I rewired my fuseblock and PCB etc. and I haven't checked the fuses once since there hasn't been any signal outage (knock on wood).

    It isn't the easiest job to desolder (can't let the plastic get too hot) the old wires and solder new ones to the rivet heads but it is totally doable. Easier if you don't use Litz like I did.

    Oh, and you will find everything is gooped up pretty good inside with hot melt glue which does a great job of sealing up anything like wires passing through and aluminum rivet and would work fine for the two wire holes if you decided to keep yours external but solder wires to the tabs. I used a very small hobbyist chisel to remove it easily enough.

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    2ox97ai2dkcq.jpg



    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    Well everyone, I have to admit a real big screw up. Any suggestions very much welcome. Got my 7bs I purchased and got burned without any recourse. They are 7bs cabinets, crossovers, peerless tweeters, and appear to be correct PRs. But they are not MW6500s, instead are Dayton Audio midwoofers which are 8 ohm. Sound I replace the mids with MW6500s if I can find some or other paths. I will be doing my 10s with all the suggestions and thank you!
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    That's a bummer. I see a couple on eBay. One silver basket and one black basket MW6500. Last week there was 4 silver baskets but 3 sold. I would stick with MW6500 myself and wouldn't want to experiment with substitutes.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,493
    edited August 5
    Sumbrada69 wrote: »
    Well everyone, I have to admit a real big screw up. Any suggestions very much welcome. Got my 7bs I purchased and got burned without any recourse. They are 7bs cabinets, crossovers, peerless tweeters, and appear to be correct PRs. But they are not MW6500s, instead are Dayton Audio midwoofers which are 8 ohm. Sound I replace the mids with MW6500s if I can find some or other paths. I will be doing my 10s with all the suggestions and thank you!

    There are a bunch on eBay right now. Also, the vintage Polk MW6503 is a close match to the 6500.

    MW 6500
    Fs: 31.0000 Hz (Free air resonance)
    Vas: 2.6486 ft^3 (Compliance volume)
    Qts: 0.2190 Total Q
    Qms: 1.3000 Mechanical Q
    Qes: 0.2640 Electrical Q
    Sd: 0.0130 M^2 (Piston area)
    Xmax: 3.1800 mm (Cone excursion, linear)
    Revc: 6.5000 ohms (DC resistance)
    Znom: 8.0000 ohms (Nominal impedance)
    Pmax: 35.0000 watts maximum rated power


    MW 6503
    Fs: 29.8600 Hz (Free air resonance)
    Vas: 3.0017 ft^3 (Compliance volume)
    Qts: 0.3100 Total Q
    Qms: 1.7680 Mechanical Q
    Qes: 0.3760 Electrical Q
    Sd: 0.0130 M^2 (Piston area)
    Xmax: 3.1800 mm (Cone excursion, linear)
    Revc: 6.5400 ohms (DC resistance)
    Znom: 8.0000 ohms (Nominal impedance)
    Pmax: 35.0000 watts maximum rated power
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 283
    edited August 5
    I'd also check Marketplace. For the price of 2 ebay MW6500's you might just find a set of complete speakers that have what you need. Hell might even find a set of Monitor 10's and end up with a couple of spare MW6500's.

    Not sure where you're located but here is a single 5a. I think (not 100% sure) that it has a 6500 midwoofer. Bonus is a spare Peerless! Price is right. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/476816991661797/
    Post edited by joebass3 on
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    I found 2 mw6500s from same seller (Ebay). Visually they appear good. They measured the resistances of the 2. One is 6.9 ohms the other is 6.7 ohms. Is this ok? I have no idea. They said they know how to and will pack them correctly. They have a very high rating on Ebay.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    Sumbrada69 wrote: »
    I found 2 mw6500s from same seller (Ebay). Visually they appear good. They measured the resistances of the 2. One is 6.9 ohms the other is 6.7 ohms. Is this ok? I have no idea. They said they know how to and will pack them correctly. They have a very high rating on Ebay.

    I wouldn't sweat that. We have no idea how accurate their meter is or whether it has a zero reading with the leads connected to each other or whether the terminals are free of oxidation. If people measure with the needle probes instead of alligator clips, the readings are less consistent.

    Make sure to tell the seller that you want them packed with plenty of cushioning material and to check them for any signs of voice coil rubbing before shipping.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    I sent them a note today after getting the values to check for magnet shift and gave them the procedure. We will see. Thanks
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,493
    Sumbrada69 wrote: »
    I found 2 mw6500s from same seller (Ebay). Visually they appear good. They measured the resistances of the 2. One is 6.9 ohms the other is 6.7 ohms. Is this ok? I have no idea. They said they know how to and will pack them correctly. They have a very high rating on Ebay.

    I saw those, excellent seller and the measurements are good.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    Well, did my questions to the seller got latest reply tested well, and in between messages sold both on me this late am. ****! Purchased just now a different one blind to get at least 1. Hope I did not get burned.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    That's unfortunate, especially since it is nice to get ones that are from same production dates. These are getting snatched up quickly it seems. Anyways, you are one down and one to go, hopefully!
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    A MW6500 is on order true condition unknown but still need 1 more. In the event a second working is a long term find what can or should I use for replacements? MW6503 or MW6510 (2) to match? I know they are not exact replacements but will they be that different? There is also the new replacements from https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/product/mw-audio-mw-6503-8-6-5-inch-polk-audio-copy-woofer/ I am searching EBay and Marketplace for speakers (5,7,10s) and some are available but distance is great (4-7hrs away) with a possibility they could be bad. I have 10As but stealing from them makes them unfunctional.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,493
    edited August 9
    As I posted above, the MW6503 is closest to the MW6500.

    The Midwest is a one model fits all that fits none.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 283
    Post your location so others can keep an eye out on FB Marketplace for you. I've picked up several sets for cheap but I'm in the Baltimore area. Make sense they would be all over Marketplace near me!
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    I'm in Binghamton,NY 13903. Right at the corner of the boot.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    I saw a 10A on eBay in NJ but it had the SL1000 tweeters. Should be 4 MW6500s though. Cabinet joints looked funky.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 283
    edited August 10
    Single MW6503
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/156336391720?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_F5CygBZTaS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kLEP-O5WQHm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    Or a pair with dented dust caps. Perfect candidate for Rob's phase plugs!
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176515838139?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Xvx5ZFIuRG2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kLEP-O5WQHm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 283
    This is close to you if it's still available.
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/480585704916091/
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 708
    Side notes to OP:

    - Read between the responses and make informed decisions.

    - If you decide to do a bucket of mods all at once, given the results from many in the forum *and* the documented (albeit subjective) improvements of each one cumulatively, it'll more than likely work out great (just like it has for others).

    It's strange that 7Bs turned out to be the prevalent speaker project for so many people lately! It's also *really* cool.

    I plan to do 'all the things' to mine, but that's how I am.

    Upgraded crossovers and properly working stock drivers are great on their own. Everything else is gravy for the goose.

    (I love gravy, so...)
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,157
    Don’t forget the gravy…..
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  • Sumbrada69
    Sumbrada69 Posts: 41
    I received the MW6500 from EBay and the cone is froze. Even with excessive pressure the cone barely moves. Definitely not free moving like mine in the 10As. Got burned again. Trying to deal with him, but have a feeling EBay will get involved. Next, I go see and probably get a pr. of 10As semi local from Marketplace. Pics look good, had him do the Cone Push test which he did via video. 3 were quiet, 1 just slight sound. Drivers all look original. This project is getting expensive.
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