Completely new to speakers. No sound coming from tweeters of lsi15's

blueskies
blueskies Posts: 33
edited January 2024 in Troubleshooting
I already have two lsi15's that sound absolutely great. But I bought another pair to add to my set up and I the tweeters aren't working on both speakers. If I hook up the speaker wires to the connectors at the bottom, the rest of the speaker sounds great as well as the subwoofer, but the tweeters aren't working, but If I connect the speaker wire to the top connectors, only the tweeter works with barely any sound coming out at all. The rest of the speaker doesn't work. I took a tweeter out of the pair that are working fine and it made no difference.

I disconnected all of the speakers from the receiver and tried them out one at a time.

Does anyone know what the problem may be?

Comments

  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,758
    edited January 2024
    Not sure on that model can you try using jumpers OR speaker wire. Top to bottom on bindings - where your speaker wire / cable goes.. EDIT If you already use same speakers - are they the same where wire/cables hook in ? Maybe the metal tab / jumper is missing
    Randy-Maine
    2ch-RTA15tl crossover upgrade
    by David WMG
    Yamaha cr1000 cr2040
    HT-Yamaha Parasound Acurus
    MIT BJC Cs1000p Polk Rotation
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,690
    To expand, your original speakers have gold colored plate jumpers between the top and bottom binding posts. It appears those are missing from the pair you just purchased. You will need to make a pair of new jumpers by using short pieces of speaker cable.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    To expand, your original speakers have gold colored plate jumpers between the top and bottom binding posts. It appears those are missing from the pair you just purchased. You will need to make a pair of new jumpers by using short pieces of speaker cable.

    With the original speakers, I just connect the speaker wire to either the top or bottom connectors and they sound fine.

    So after I make a pair of jumpers, it will solve the problem?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,690
    Do you have these on your new speakers? If not, you need to make some from speaker cable.
    phxtcywn8i4y.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Do you have these on your new speakers? If not, you need to make some from speaker cable.
    phxtcywn8i4y.jpg

    Thanks for this. I just looked and I don't have them. Would you happen to have a link on where I can buy these?
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,758
    Just be very very careful. One guy tried it & he never reported back :D
    Randy-Maine
    2ch-RTA15tl crossover upgrade
    by David WMG
    Yamaha cr1000 cr2040
    HT-Yamaha Parasound Acurus
    MIT BJC Cs1000p Polk Rotation
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,690
    blueskies wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do you have these on your new speakers? If not, you need to make some from speaker cable.
    phxtcywn8i4y.jpg

    Thanks for this. I just looked and I don't have them. Would you happen to have a link on where I can buy these?

    Well, they tend to vary in size/length depending on the binding post plate used, so finding the exact size you need would be a crap shoot. In reality, you are much better off using speaker cable as those gold plated brass plates leave a lot to be desired.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,690
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »

    Thanks. I took the jumper plates off the originals and now they sound great. I will give those in the link you provided a try.

    Thanks again!
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,758
    Welcome to the forum & Kudos for quick responses.
    Randy-Maine
    2ch-RTA15tl crossover upgrade
    by David WMG
    Yamaha cr1000 cr2040
    HT-Yamaha Parasound Acurus
    MIT BJC Cs1000p Polk Rotation
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,690
    blueskies wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »

    Thanks. I took the jumper plates off the originals and now they sound great. I will give those in the link you provided a try.

    Thanks again!

    Ok, but sonically using speaker cable is better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,016
    F1nut wrote: »
    … using speaker cable is sonically better.
    The above and for the fitment reasons he mentioned in earlier replies.
    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s