Polk Reserve Series R700

Irrenhaus
Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
Hi

I am thinking upgrading my beloved RTi12 to the new R700 series for HT and some music. The center channel will follow.
I have find myself doing a lot of video streaming lately.
The reviews seems good on their performance.
They will be power by an Adcom 585 also looking to upgrade.
Any comments?

Cheers
HT
AVR-Pioneer SC99
Adcom 585
Polk R-700
Rear- RT150
Side- RT150
Center-CSi5
Sub-Rythmik audio F25
Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


Audio Room 2ch rig.
Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

Headphone rig;

Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
«1

Comments

  • msg
    msg Posts: 7,023
    It's been an hour and 45 minutes already. Got 'em yet?

    Seriously, for a combo system, these should sound great. I thought the RTi10s I had were good for theater, but I couldn't get comfortable with them for music.

    Do you have a sub in this system?

    Do you have a dedicated 2ch as well?
    I disabled signatures.
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 1,658
    edited February 21
    If you come looking for validation, go buy now! I’m sure it will be more than worth it!

    Please post pics when they come in :smile:

    In all seriousness, Having had RTI-10’s for quite a while in my HT, I can imagine the R700’s are a sizable upgrade and they certainly look much better IMO
    2 Channel - 2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

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  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    msg wrote: »
    It's been an hour and 45 minutes already. Got 'em yet?

    Seriously, for a combo system, these should sound great. I thought the RTi10s I had were good for theater, but I couldn't get comfortable with them for music.

    Do you have a sub in this system?

    Do you have a dedicated 2ch as well?

    Hi thanks.

    Yes I do have a sub a Rythmik F25 and I do have a dedicated 2ch as well.

    Cheers
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 7,023
    The reason I was asking whether you had a dedicated 2ch was because you mentioned this being a combo system. If you didn't have a dedicated 2ch, and since you have that nice sub, I was thinking for a clean music-first combo system, maybe the L200 would be a nice option as well, slightly biased toward 2ch performance.

    Curious, do you have the Rythmik blended pretty well with the RTi12s? I seem to have difficulty finding the sweet spot when using a sub with larger speakers, but I'm sure that's more a room/placement thing.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    msg wrote: »
    The reason I was asking whether you had a dedicated 2ch was because you mentioned this being a combo system. If you didn't have a dedicated 2ch, and since you have that nice sub, I was thinking for a clean music-first combo system, maybe the L200 would be a nice option as well, slightly biased toward 2ch performance.

    Curious, do you have the Rythmik blended pretty well with the RTi12s? I seem to have difficulty finding the sweet spot when using a sub with larger speakers, but I'm sure that's more a room/placement thing.

    Hey, thanks for the reply. I do have the F25 well blended, at least for my taste. But still, the 12s are bright for music, and after a while it gets tired.

    On the 2ch system, I have a set of Lintons with a 12" SVS and love it.
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,543
    I'd recommend waiting for a sale to come up on the Reserve series again.
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    Hi,

    Order has been placed. Now is waiting time. They will replace my beloved RTi 12's. The center channel will be upgraded down the road to a R400.

    Cheers
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 4,678
    Congrats!
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    Congrats!

    Thanks.
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • smglbrth
    smglbrth Posts: 1,392
    I hope you enjoy them! For me it was either the Linton's or the R600's. My wife liked both (she actually preferred the looks of the Linton's) but after reading many various reviews on the Linton's decided to go with the R600's. I told my wife that with the Linton's I would have to either get acoustic panels to put behind them (for the rear ports) or stick them out in the room over a foot, maybe more. That was that, she was not going to put up with speakers stuck that far out and acoustic panels were a no-go, period. So..., the wife likes the R600's!
    Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
  • Milito
    Milito Posts: 1,578
    Congrats, looking forward to a review.
    Yamaha RX-A2070, Musical Fidelity M6si integrated amp, Benchmark Dac1, Bluesound NODE 2i, Audiolab 6000CDT CD Transport, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Fluance RT85, Ortofon 2M Bronze, Polk L600's, L400, Audioquest Interconnects and Digital Cables, Cullen Gold and Crossover Series Power Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Signal Power Cable, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios, Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,543
    Couple very positive reviews of the R700s in the last couple days...



  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    Emlyn wrote: »
    Couple very positive reviews of the R700s in the last couple days...




    Hey Thanks.

    Cheers
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    Delivered, I am not home now, in Ames for work. Will be home in the morning. It will be a good morning after coffee.


    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    edited June 5
    Well got a chance to set them up last evening. It's been a hectic week at work. This things sound amazing with music, they have a nice deep bass by themselves did not need to use the sub.

    Have not try yet with a movie and so far only streaming music and videos. But extremely happy with them. R400 Next.

    mh8u7dqgnfls.jpg

    Unfortunetlly I also found last night that my Adcom 585 is making a strange noise when is power back on ( I rarely turn it off), but is completely silence after is back on. It seems this unit has a relay to delay the power when is turned on, it takes a few seconds for audio to start playing on the speakers after power on the amp. So my guess is that the relay is going bad. I will look into it and replace it or remove it.

    Cheers
    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 24,343
    edited June 5
    I don't believe any Adcom of that era had any start-up/shut down relay. That's why music continues to play after you turn the amp off and then the famous "farting" when the caps are finally drained.

    I haven't look at or researched the older (orignal) Adcom pieces in quite some time so I am going on a foggy memory. Could be the dreaded output board and the defective (leaking) caps rearing its ugly head, although based on the age, if it was going to happen (because of the defective run of caps initially) it would have failed by now.

    Definitely have it looked at. Many parts are very had to get, like the original output transistors. Toshiba ceased production a long time ago. I remember seeing people trying to hoard what was left at least 10 years ago. Of course you can find compatible OT's but then you'd have to redo the other amp as well for them to sound exactly the same. IIRC, the originals were made my Toshiba and were "canned" TO3 style bi-polar transistors.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • Irrenhaus
    Irrenhaus Posts: 1,021
    heiney9 wrote: »
    I don't believe any Adcom of that era had any start-up/shut down relay. That's why music continues to play after you turn the amp off and then the famous "farting" when the caps are finally drained.

    I haven't look at or researched the older (orignal) Adcom pieces in quite some time so I am going on a foggy memory. Could be the dreaded output board and the defective (leaking) caps rearing its ugly head, although based on the age, if it was going to happen (because of the defective run of caps initially) it would have failed by now.

    Definitely have it looked at. Many parts are very had to get, like the original output transistors. Toshiba ceased production a long time ago. I remember seeing people trying to hoard what was left at least 10 years ago. Of course you can find compatible OT's but then you'd have to redo the other amp as well for them to sound exactly the same. IIRC, the originals were made my Toshiba and were "canned" TO3 style bi-polar transistors.

    H9

    Hi H9,

    Thanks for the reply. I know, but this is how the inside of mine looks like. This board sits on top of the transformer. I am the second owner and the original owner had the unit recap.

    I was doing some cleaning some time ago to dust it off.

    xaxhvs23gfud.jpg

    8kn38ueq118y.jpg

    Cheers

    HT
    AVR-Pioneer SC99
    Adcom 585
    Polk R-700
    Rear- RT150
    Side- RT150
    Center-CSi5
    Sub-Rythmik audio F25
    Player- Panasonic DP-UB9000
    Projector- Optoma CinemaX P2
    Screen- Silver Ticket Products STR Series 6 120"


    Audio Room 2ch rig.
    Cary AE-3, Onkyo M-504, Marantz SA8005, NAD-C510

    Wharfedale - Linton, SVS SB12-NSD

    Minis Forum PC (streamer) and Panamax MX5105

    Headphone rig;

    Schiit JOTUNHEIM and different headphones.

    Samsung 42" flat screen TV.
  • Vasyl777
    Vasyl777 Posts: 5
    Hey guys! Need your help in advice. I was careless with my amp volume and burned the tweeters on my R700s. To replace, I need to understand how to properly dismantle them. Support helped with nothing - attached dealer's contacts - they will help you... :( As far as I understand, there are mounting screws under the outer plastic ring. How can I remove this ring correctly? Is it glued or held on by magnets? It seems like from the description of the tweeter, we can conclude that the ring is held on magnets. I found a guide for replacing the tweeter with the L series - there the decorative panel is really on magnets. I don't have a very powerful magnet to remove the ring, but I tried a neodymium magnet with a breaking force of about 25 kg. The ring didn't even budge. The fit to the body is very tight - even the blade cannot be squeezed through. Do I still need to look for a very powerful magnet or is this ring somehow cleverly removed in a different way?
    I will be very grateful for your help dr79c1cabse5.jpg
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 25,762
    Ring pulls off like a grill
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 30,083
    edited June 6
    VR3 wrote: »
    Ring pulls off like a grill

    I don't know -- but I suspect that pulling off the ring may require some... ahh... encouragement. I like dental picks for such... persuasion, but a delicate touch is necessary. :#

    Meanwhile -- @Vasyl777 are you sure the problem lies in the tweeters and not, e.g., in some component(s) of the crossover?
  • Vasyl777
    Vasyl777 Posts: 5
    VR3 wrote: »
    Ring pulls off like a grill

    So I really need more powerfull magnet, right?
  • Vasyl777
    Vasyl777 Posts: 5
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    @Vasyl777 are you sure the problem lies in the tweeters and not, e.g., in some component(s) of the crossover?
    I'm not sure, so anyway I need to remove tweeters and show it to some speaker master. There is a suspicion that the problem is in the burned coils of the tweeters.

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 25,762
    There is adhesive so it will require encouragement and positive reinforcement
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,543
    Use a thin plastic panel removal tool or two and something to prevent marring the cabinet. No guarantee it won't leave a small mark on the plastic cover ring or cabinet. Some may even be brave and wrap some electrical tape on the blade of a thin screwdriver and pry using that. Not me.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 30,083
    Vasyl777 wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    Ring pulls off like a grill

    So I really need more powerfull magnet, right?

    I don't think they're magnetic. I don't know (these other guys do!) but I suspect the rings are press-fit.
    Good advice in the couple of posts above.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 25,762
    I used the rekey tool from a kwikset smart key
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,255
    @Vasyl777 let Polk fix it. It will be less expensive than repairing all the damage you will cause.
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 30,083
    BlueFox wrote: »
    @Vasyl777 let Polk fix it. It will be less expensive than repairing all the damage you will cause.

    good advice.
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,048
    It's just a beauty ring. Polk speakers from many different generations have been easy to disassemble. I doubt the Reserve are any different.

    It's possible it's just sticky tape like the tweet/mid sonic engine beauty ring/baffle.
    9upbsc93nc3g.jpeg

    Get yourself some pry tools and take your time.
    avs13ciifgeh.png
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