Thinking of SVS

Hello,

I currently have an HSU VTF3-M5, With money I've been saving I was thinking of jumping off HSU and going to SVS. For space I can only go so big. It will be either a PB3000 or a SB16.

Due to WAF I can't go much larger than my current sub. Nothing wrong with the VTF3 just looking for a little more slam and clean up the music a tad.

Wish I had space for a PB4000 or PB16. Neither of these will fit at all.

I am also thinking of PC4000, I've never heard a cylinder sub outside a car.
When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

Family Room:
Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
Main: Polk LsiM 705
Center: Polk LSiM 704C
Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
Surrounds: Polk S15
Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

Bed Room;
Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
Main: Polk Signature S20
Center: Polk Signature S35
Rear: Polk R15
Sub: HSU STF-2

Working Warehouse;
Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
Old sony 12" Sub
Mini tower PC with 400GB of music

Comments

  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,021
    If I remember from previous views of your system the subwoofer placement in a confined area may have been an issue? Am I remembering right?

    The cylinder subs are useful for limited floor space but they aren't high on WAF. Cats like them too.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,154
    mrloren wrote: »
    Hello,

    I currently have an HSU VTF3-M5, With money I've been saving I was thinking of jumping off HSU and going to SVS. For space I can only go so big. It will be either a PB3000 or a SB16.

    Due to WAF I can't go much larger than my current sub. Nothing wrong with the VTF3 just looking for a little more slam and clean up the music a tad.

    Wish I had space for a PB4000 or PB16. Neither of these will fit at all.

    I am also thinking of PC4000, I've never heard a cylinder sub outside a car.

    Caveat emptor: I have never owned a cylinder sub, but I have heard that they are better sound wise, but most people didn’t like the look.

    I have owned SVS & HSU. In my mind HSU is a good step better for music, while SVS are ht first subs. The lack of high level inputs are almost all SVS is exhibit one...
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    edited April 9
    Yes that corner is very limited. No other place to put the sub. Need to meet WAF.
    zsqsw1kr7mk8.png

    to Fit the SB16 I'd have to try and slide everything to the left a bit.

    I have the HSU set at EQ2 4" port open Q @ 5.5. Works great. I have a window opening with funds the wife doesn't know about. Reason I am thinking of upgrade.

    I was also thinking of going dual SB2000 or SB3000. that would shove the right speaker to where the sub is.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,021
    Looks like forward firing front ported on the HSU. My guess is a cylinder may perform better there. The room gain/bass boost would be quite high there but the downfiring driver could be better.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 4,421
    Are down-firing subs considered to have a higher WAF?

    I would think that moving the speaker to the right (where the sub is now) would be a very bad idea... 🤔
    Alea jacta est!
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,021
    As long as the significant other is ok with guests asking why someone painted a water heater black and put in the living room, the WAF is good.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 4,421
    I meant the square box variety. 😉

    Technically, they are just a wooden box, with an invisible driver underneath. No speaker cloth or driver visible from the front. I've even seen one that had a glass "table top". They don't seem very common, though, and I don't see any from either SVS or HSU.
    Alea jacta est!
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 2,878
    edited April 9
    mrloren wrote: »
    . Nothing wrong with the VTF3 just looking for a little more slam and clean up the music a tad.
    Have you tried the the sub in sealed mode for music? Have you though about adding a second sub stacked for more slam? (sealed) music and (ported) movies? The best of both worlds x 2. Something to think about.

    DSC01906.jpg

    Also, if you are willing to spend $1999 on the SB16 have you considered the $1869 Rythmik FV18?

    FV18_sm.jpg



  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    WLDock wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    . Nothing wrong with the VTF3 just looking for a little more slam and clean up the music a tad.
    Have you tried the the sub in sealed mode for music? Have you though about adding a second sub stacked for more slam? (sealed) music and (ported) movies? The best of both worlds x 2. Something to think about.

    DSC01906.jpg

    Also, if you are willing to spend $1999 on the SB16 have you considered the $1869 Rythmik FV18?

    FV18_sm.jpg



    Just too big.
    Kex wrote: »
    I meant the square box variety. 😉

    Technically, they are just a wooden box, with an invisible driver underneath. No speaker cloth or driver visible from the front. I've even seen one that had a glass "table top". They don't seem very common, though, and I don't see any from either SVS or HSU.

    My previous sub was a VTF2MK2 12" down firing sub. good sub. The VTF3MK5 is a lot better.

    I agree a cylinder sub @ 47" would look like a water heater, I think it would be the same height as my 705's. If I stack another on top I think my wife would go nuts.

    Like I said earlier, there is nothing wrong with my VTF3MK5 it actually sounds great. Movies are just insane and music is good too. When we got our house painted the contractor repaired a lot of stucco cracks on that wall.

    I just have some extra cash my wife doesn't know about. I was just wondering if it would be a move up.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    I guess my big question or concern is would I like the SB16 over my VTF3. I would hate to have to get it setup and then say awe crud this sounds like yuck. @ 122lb the SB16 is a beast.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,154
    mrloren wrote: »
    I guess my big question or concern is would I like the SB16 over my VTF3. I would hate to have to get it setup and then say awe crud this sounds like yuck. @ 122lb the SB16 is a beast.

    Based just on measurements from several reviews It seems like a literal move at best and a waste of money imho...
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,024
    SVS has a 45 day in home trial period with free shipping both ways. Try one and see...
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    I guess my big question or concern is would I like the SB16 over my VTF3. I would hate to have to get it setup and then say awe crud this sounds like yuck. @ 122lb the SB16 is a beast.

    Based just on measurements from several reviews It seems like a literal move at best and a waste of money imho...

    Yeah your more on point. Most likely I'd be sitting there with a sore back thinking "gee there went that bonus check".

    Other option I have is to add a 2nd VTF 3

    4r42ademvvgg.png

    Putting a sub in the circled area would not fly well with the wife. It would have to be wireless and fire right into the loveseat. Add in the rattles from all the nick nacks
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • msg
    msg Posts: 6,454
    edited April 10
    Loren, maybe I missed it, but what were your thoughts on Walt's idea to stack a second HSU? If that location's working well for you, placement wise, it seems stacking a second would be the way to go. You could still put your plant, Yoda and Shrek on top. Might seem a little massive though, I agree.

    If you place another sub out in the middle of the room, you might end up with a can of worms with blending. I tried stereo subs recently, and one is closer to a corner, the other being more toward the middle. It's been tough to get it sounding right, but it was mostly okay before I went back to a single sub.

    Without close back and side walls and diagonal placement for the second sub, you might end up with some strange low frequency performance. Could probably dial it a bit, but not sure it would get you the effect you want.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,021
    What's the floor construction in that room? Slab or suspended wood? If cracks in the stucco were caused by a subwoofer there, I'd actually think about going smaller and faster in a sealed box. There should be plenty of extra room gain from that location.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,154
    Do you use your receiver as the pre Loren? If you want to improve music, your best bet would be a good pre with HT bypass, or a DAC. Something from parasound, Musical fidelity, Wyred for sound, lots of options out there. Or an really good integrated with HT bypass (my MF a308 has that) and then use the two extra channels from your amp for surrounds.

    The difference between using a receiver as a pre vs. a dedicated pre or good integrated is NOT subtle. Think the difference between the amps in your receiver and your external amp. Similar with a really good DAC...
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    Emlyn wrote: »
    What's the floor construction in that room? Slab or suspended wood? If cracks in the stucco were caused by a subwoofer there, I'd actually think about going smaller and faster in a sealed box. There should be plenty of extra room gain from that location.

    I've had a sub in that corner for almost 20 years + the cheap SoCal construction is the reason for all the stucco cracks. Neighbor who doesn't have an HT had to have a wall re-stucco.

    Yes it's on a slab

    for a faster sealed box is why I was pondering the SB16 That is about the biggest I can go.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    msg wrote: »
    Loren, maybe I missed it, but what were your thoughts on Walt's idea to stack a second HSU? If that location's working well for you, placement wise, it seems stacking a second would be the way to go. You could still put your plant, Yoda and Shrek on top. Might seem a little massive though, I agree.

    If you place another sub out in the middle of the room, you might end up with a can of worms with blending. I tried stereo subs recently, and one is closer to a corner, the other being more toward the middle. It's been tough to get it sounding right, but it was mostly okay before I went back to a single sub.

    Without close back and side walls and diagonal placement for the second sub, you might end up with some strange low frequency performance. Could probably dial it a bit, but not sure it would get you the effect you want.

    Stacking another VTF3 would bring it to over 50" might as well go with a water heater PC4000

    I've already nixed the idea of putting one over by the sofa.

    Getting the itch to upgrade the HT at this point is way to costly.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Do you use your receiver as the pre Loren? If you want to improve music, your best bet would be a good pre with HT bypass, or a DAC. Something from parasound, Musical fidelity, Wyred for sound, lots of options out there. Or an really good integrated with HT bypass (my MF a308 has that) and then use the two extra channels from your amp for surrounds.

    The difference between using a receiver as a pre vs. a dedicated pre or good integrated is NOT subtle. Think the difference between the amps in your receiver and your external amp. Similar with a really good DAC...

    Yes I use the AVR as a Pre for the front 3. Surrounds and heights are driven off the AVR

    I glanced at moving over to a pre-amp, that would blow out any budget I have. I would have to get more amps. I am limited to a 15a circuit.

    I always think if I could get it any better. Guess not unless I drop $5k which is not in the budget.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,154
    mrloren wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Do you use your receiver as the pre Loren? If you want to improve music, your best bet would be a good pre with HT bypass, or a DAC. Something from parasound, Musical fidelity, Wyred for sound, lots of options out there. Or an really good integrated with HT bypass (my MF a308 has that) and then use the two extra channels from your amp for surrounds.

    The difference between using a receiver as a pre vs. a dedicated pre or good integrated is NOT subtle. Think the difference between the amps in your receiver and your external amp. Similar with a really good DAC...

    Yes I use the AVR as a Pre for the front 3. Surrounds and heights are driven off the AVR

    I glanced at moving over to a pre-amp, that would blow out any budget I have. I would have to get more amps. I am limited to a 15a circuit.

    I always think if I could get it any better. Guess not unless I drop $5k which is not in the budget.

    Loren not an HT pre but a 2 channel pre with HT bypass or an integrated amp with HT bypass. You would still use your Avr for surround stuff. You could get one of those for what you are looking at spending on a sub.
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    Darn it! Now I'm reading reviews on the water heater https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-4000

    I need to just go watch a movie and forget this itch to upgrade.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 4,421
    I would never recommend making a decision like that based on reviews from other “people”. Caveat emptor, etc. etc... 😳

    Sounds like far more trouble that it’s worth, since you already have a good sub. Isn’t there anything else you could treat yourself to? New speakers in the vehicle? A new head unit with better Bluetooth and CarPlay or Android Auto?
    Alea jacta est!
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 2,878
    edited April 10
    mrloren wrote: »
    Stacking another VTF3 would bring it to over 50" might as well go with a water heater PC4000

    If you are already considering a 47" tall sub what's another 3"? If you sell the VTF3, you will take a loss and the PC4000 is $1799!

    Could get another VTF3 for $928 shipped and stack it. Now you have two 15" 600 watt each sealed or ported subs loaded in the corner. Adjust the room correction to get things sounding as good as you can and your bass problems should be solved.

    Then, could find a nice used, open box, new, etc. $500-$900 integrated also with HT bypass, or just use an input switcher and have improved stereo music playback. You would get the most for your money over buying a $1799-$1999 SVS sub.

    Yamaha A-S801 - https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamas801bl-rb/yamaha-a-s801-2-ch-x-100-watts-integrated-amplifier-w/built-in-dac-black/1.html

    Musical Fidelity M2si - https://tmraudio.com/components/integrated-amplifiers/musical-fidelity-m2si-stereo-integrated-amplifier-silver-open-box-w-warranty/

    Marantz PM7000N - https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649719606-marantz-pm7000n/

    Musical Fidelity A3.2 - https://reverb.com/item/39561389-musical-fidelity-a3-2-dual-mono-integrated-amplifier

    Cambridge Audio CXA-80 - https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649726324-cambridge-audio-cxa80-integrated-amplifier-excellent/

    Cambridge Audio CXA-61 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/154397123578?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338381866&toolid=10001&customid=24f0c558-9a5e-11eb-acb0-613236346366

    Audiolab 6000A - (silver) https://hifiheaven.net/shop/Audiolab-6000A-Stereo-Integrated-Amp-Bluetooth-DAC-Silver-Open-Box?language=en&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmcWDBhCOARIsALgJ2QdhZmLKNHcLCWS0l_dQgWF4Zi03JddwkB9AOERWBybzwCdxph2aX8MaAho6EALw_wcB

    (black) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audiolab-6000A-2-Channel-Integrated-Amplifier/174701104897?hash=item28acff4f01:g:A6cAAOSwXW9gWfSg
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    We just did some major couch potato, 47 Ronin and the new Falcon winter soldier thing. Watched the first 5 minutes of "Edge of Tomorrow". sub is great.

    Having two VTF3 stacked would just look way too funky. The PC-4000 would probably look better but would it perform better than the VTF3? SB16 would be a tight fit, once again would it really be an upgrade worth it?

    I have the upgrade bug, was thinking of sub but now I don't know. Not enough for an A31 or A52+, Maybe look at a SR8012.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 1,892
    edited April 11
    Have you considered a UPOCC 12awg power cord with high quality copper (maybe UPOCC also) IEC and wall plugs? A friend brought over his DIY one of his own construction and I was shocked that it actually was anything but subtle. I currently have a 6ft. 14awg basic cord from Monoprice and that *should* be more than enough current capacity but his cord tightened everything up significantly. Paradoxically the bass was leaner but cleaner. I was tempted to turn the gain up a little since it was apparently less distortion, but I didn't want to upset my current setting. He took it with him when he left :D
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, all std. mods (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,154
    WLDock wrote: »

    Yep! If you want to dramatically improve your music SQ, this would be awesome! It would power you main speakers freeing up two channel for surrounds, and when you listen to two channel music you wouldn’t go through the AVR but rather through the integrated.

    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,368
    Happy Saturday,

    Just an update,

    I've decided to go with a water heater if I do get a new sub. I think I've watched every video and read every review on the PC-4000. Now that is IF I do go for a new sub.

    My wife was sleeping, I got board. I turned off the circuit for the Fridge and ran Audyssey. This time I did some thing different. After a normal Audyssey run I will pull out my phone and use the DB meter to check all speakers are the same.

    This time when it came to sub rather that turn the AVR tone up 6db I turned the volume on the sub up. With volume set at -25 all speakers came in around 40db sub was at 32db. Hence why I crank the sub up on the AVR. Turning the volume on the sub up it self seams to come out a lot better than turning up the AVR. I did give it the Edge of Tomorrow test, oh my a lot better. U571 was great.

    Another thing I did. I saw on a few review videos people put a towel under the center speaker. I did this this morning. Not night and day but it did sound a tad cleaner.

    I really should get a DB meter.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
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