SRS2 crossover ?

So I just acquired a pair of SRS 2 pin/blade connection. The serial numbers are below the cut off for safe use of an AI 1 interface.
What exactly is the difference between the lower serial numbers and the higher ones?
Anything I can do to mine to make them compatible with the AI 1?

Thanks!
Stubby

Comments

  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    Apologies. I am the same old stubby that's been here for like 20 years.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,184
    @KennethSwauger can help restore your old account
  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    That's great to know! Thanks Ken.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,295
    stubby2 wrote: »
    So I just acquired a pair of SRS 2 pin/blade connection. The serial numbers are below the cut off for safe use of an AI 1 interface.
    What exactly is the difference between the lower serial numbers and the higher ones?
    Anything I can do to mine to make them compatible with the AI 1?

    Thanks!
    Stubby

    I'm not entirely sure. I suggest you compare the internal wire connections and crossover against the schematic for the later version, which is posted here.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    That will probably be my best bet, F1. I was just hoping someone from the brain trust would ring in with the info. Lazy me!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,295
    It's likely to do with the blade connection, but there's no schematic for your speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 1,987
    edited February 5
    stubby2 wrote: »
    So I just acquired a pair of SRS 2 pin/blade connection. The serial numbers are below the cut off for safe use of an AI 1 interface.
    Huh?

    WHAT "cut off for safe use of an AI1 interface"?

    Are you thinking of the SDA-2Bs, some of which got the old blade/blade connector, and were missing about a foot of wire inside? Some SDA 1Cs also got the older connector, and were also missing about a foot of wire inside the cabinet. Far as I know, that never happened to the SRS 2 pin/blade.

    In fact, the "pin/blade" part tells me you're good to go already.
    stubby2 wrote: »
    What exactly is the difference between the lower serial numbers and the higher ones?
    Anything I can do to mine to make them compatible with the AI 1?
    Far as I know, there's no reason why your SRS 2 pin/blade can't be used with the isolation transformer as-is.

    If there is a problem, I want to know about it 'cause it's news to me.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,295
    cpq41do637mg.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 1,987
    edited February 6
    Well, don't I feel silly.

    I've been so focused on the "note" at the bottom that I've forgotten that the CRS, SRS, and SRS 2 were included in the main part at the top.

    I'm gonna have to dig my SRS 2s out, and see what the serial numbers are.

    Wild Guess: They need about a foot of wire inside the cabinet.
  • Navy_Goat
    Navy_Goat Posts: 272

    Schurkey wrote: »
    Are you thinking of the SDA-2Bs, some of which got the old blade/blade connector, and were missing about a foot of wire inside?

    I don't want to hijack this thread, but I am curious about the missing foot of wire in early 2B. I have a pair of 2B with blade/blade connectors that I believe match this description. I don't have an A1 or Dreadnaught at this point so its not critical, but I'm always looking to learn more about my speakers. Is there a thread or post that you know of that goes in to more detail? Thanks!
    SDA-2B: TL mod, gimpod boards, sonicap, mills, Erse inductor matched by westmassguy, Cabs sealed, h-nuts, dynamat, BH5 & SDA-1C: gimpod boards, sonicap, mills, Cabs sealed, h-nuts, dynamat, BH5
    Technics sl-1710/sony ubp-800>Marantz NR-1509>parasound HCA-1500a

    SDA SRS 2.3tl: gimpod boards, sonicap, mills, Erse inductor matched by westmassguy, Cabs sealed, h-nuts, dynamat, BH5
    Yamaha WXC-50>Crown XLS-2002

    Zu Audio Omen Dirty Weekend mkII w/Jupiter cap & Polk Audio L200 (coming soon)
    Marantz ND8006/Technics SL-QD33>Anthem Pre-1L>Adcom GFA-535
  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    Here's a look at the wiring. The blade wire jumps to the positive input. ts59hr2tmqk3.jpg
    Looks the same as the wiring on an SRS 3.1 TL crossover.
    The caps aren't bulging but I plan on replacing them as well as the resistors. q5v6yzrl2bab.jpg
  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    Sorry, the blade jumps to a NEGATIVE input.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,295
    I'm not seeing anything obvious that would prevent using the AI-1 or Dreadnought.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stubby2
    stubby2 Posts: 12
    Thanks F1, I feel pretty confident about the situation. The DOM on the passive is January 1988, if that helps.