Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?
Comments
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Quit yer stallin' and get back to work on the Infinity's... We have waited long enough for you to get them hooked up and reviewed!
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Where and how much for that Soldering station?
and...
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/6z/i11syvrozytc.jpg
Armaflex/pipe wrap is thinner, much cheaper and easier to work with. I’ve used it on driver frames and any surface bigger than 3” X 3” inside all my speakers. A little contact cement helps.
Hope that helps and thanks for the soldering station info.
Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Speaking of soldering tools, I got this 'helping hand' set earlier this week, and wow...wish I had gotten it years ago! Best $33 I've spent in a while
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T7NY1DJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Magnets hold the arms and posts in place (plenty strong), so you can easily place them where needed. You can watch the video for a demo.
Here's mine currently being used building a replacement board.
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
That is very nice...
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Where and how much for that Soldering station?
and...
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/6z/i11syvrozytc.jpg
Armaflex/pipe wrap is thinner, much cheaper and easier to work with. I’ve used it on driver frames and any surface bigger than 3” X 3” inside all my speakers. A little contact cement helps.
Hope that helps and thanks for the soldering station info.
Tony
Tony, I got it on Amazon for $39.00.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F28F7YB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KBiaGbC56BT8E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Its heavy and feels like its well built. We will find out how it does in a few hours. Fingers crossed 🤞 -
What a mess. And I can't find my PTFE tubing. Or my zip ties
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Lots of pretty colors! That board looks too thin. If you were closer, I'd help. Looks like a fun project.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
The wood is 1/8 inch thick. Feels pretty sturdy. I'll be putting anti vibration feet on it so it can sit of the rear of the cabinet.
I still can't find my PTFE tubing or zip ties. I have no freaking idea what happened to them. I had everything stashed in the same place. Uuughh!!!! 😬 -
I have a few caps here that have one short lead and a long lead. ????? What does this mean?
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I found this. So does it matter what direction I go? This caps will all be in series. So input vs output ? Not really pos vs neg?
"The line on the label (at the shorter lead-out end) indicates the outer foil. This should be connected to the point of lowest impedance/signal output / AC end."
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As far as I've gotten so far. Taking a break now. -
An alternative to this would be a copper buss bar like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Main-Bus-Bar-Ground-Bar-Strap-5-8-x-12-1-2-03J37/184616991955?hash=item2afc07bcd3:g:NZwAAOSwSJpf~H2-
You could also point to point wire them using any quality speaker wire.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
An alternative to this would be a copper buss bar like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Main-Bus-Bar-Ground-Bar-Strap-5-8-x-12-1-2-03J37/184616991955?hash=item2afc07bcd3:g:NZwAAOSwSJpf~H2-
You could also point to point wire them using any quality speaker wire.
Thanks. I think I'm going to do point to point. I have some really nice silver plated 14 awg wire that I will use for ground and to wire the woofers. -
It ain't pretty. I have the tweeter and midrange section done on one speaker. Will put the woofer section in tomorrow.
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Woofer section in. Now I need to connect everything to ground. I tried spacing the coils out as much as possible and changed thier orientation.
All the parallel parts had my brain in overtime.
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Now all you need is a shouldered eye bolt and an engine hoist to set them in place
Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
You can see where I started, everything crammed together. I was not sure there would be enough room. But there eneded up being plenty.
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Are changing inductors worth the cost? I've heard it can be tricky getting the right coil. DCR has to be taken into consideration?
Can I go from a iron core to a air core as long as awg wire and mh values are the same?
There is a tiny .05mh iron core that I accidentally pulled about two inches of wire oot from under the protective coating. I think I screwed it up.Post edited by CH46E on -
It's probably fine. I had a dog chew up one of mine. I think it sounds better now.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
I think I might be able to remove the protective coating and reminds the 2 inches i pulled out. The iron core is only as large as a pencil eraser.
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This is the little coil I accidentally pulled about two inches of wire out of. I'm guessing I have to re wrap that 2 inches right??
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as long as the enamel is still intact, that is the path I'd try.
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as long as the enamel is still intact, that is the path I'd try.
Yes. The enamel is still there. Does it have to be wrapped perfectly one wire in front of the other? -
Not really ever seen polks? They look hand wound as fast as they could lol -
I have not made the input to the crossover connections yet. I'm thinking I may make them bi-amp capable. Just in case I want to try that later. Would be very easy at this point.
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I have not made the input to the crossover connections yet. I'm thinking I may make them bi-amp capable. Just in case I want to try that later. Would be very easy at this point.
I wouldn't do that... reason being is that it is just not needed. You can get a monoblock amp for each channel and that would be plenty.
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Hurry up, Chris.
I'm waiting to hear how Baby Shark sounds on these things.I disabled signatures. -
go for itI have not made the input to the crossover connections yet. I'm thinking I may make them bi-amp capable. Just in case I want to try that later. Would be very easy at this point.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Just my experience-your better off using a modern high quality electrolytic (new-not NOS) in the bass/woofer section, vs a thick wound poly.
The thinner windings of the electrolytic are better suited for quick response-and at those low frequencies-as well as saving a ton of space-and throwing of your bass box volume.
Plus you can use the saved cash for say Jatzen Alumen Z"s on your mids and tweets.
That's where you will hear real improvement-not putting large value poly's on your woofers.
I recently saw a racap of a RSiiia-where the guy used 1200uf of poly's!!!
Sorry-poly's/film foil's aren't going to improve anything at those frequencies.
Frankly non of them-that I'm aware of- is designed to improve anything in that range.
The only reasoning-if they fit-is longevity-not sound.
Modern electrolytics in a non heat environment should be good for 20 year min
The Superior z's are great caps-a easy choice.
Mids-I would look @ Alumen z's-or use a 25% AL Z' mis with 75% Clarity CSA-killer mix.
