rti a9 crossover fried


Bought a pair of Polk Rti A9's about 3 years ago. Never had any issues until now. Noticed that listening to music, they sounded dead. While watching movies, they sounded great. Ran them 2 ch stereo and noticed that the tweeters were dead. Swapped in a dif tweeter from surrounds and still dead. Called crutchfield and, since they were still under warranty, they sent new crossovers. They actually wanted to send a new set of speakers!!!, but I was not ready to pack these monsters up to ship back. Long story short, this is what I found after removing x-overs. Obviously the white component, which is discolored and cracked is the problem. Can anybody tell me what this component is?
Comments
With no tweeters playing I'm not sure how it's possible for movies to sound great.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Yep, drove his AVR into clipping.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Pro amps do not belong in the home.
Resistors get hot and when they get too hot they can crack and/or fry. Usually when crossover resistors get too hot it's a result of the power source sending clipped signals. Since your other speakers were not damaged the logical conclusion would be the Crown was clipping.
Even with the other speaker's tweeters working it should have been obvious something was off.
The good news is the damaged resistors can be replaced. You'll find the values printed on the body.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
They don't love heat
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
You beat me to that comment for sure~! A logical conundrum!
I will change the resistor. Should i use the same type or resistor or anything with the same specs (5W2ΩJ) will do the job? I did some researchs and those ceramic resistors are the cheapest available, installing a better resistor will improve the sound?
No need to look too long at the questionable cap as the OP stated that he is getting a new crossover from Crutchfield. I would believe that Crutchfield would replace the entire crossover, not simply the cracked resistor.
I would up the wattage to 10 or 12 watt same 2 ohm value. The larger wattage value will help dissipate heat better. Vishay/Mills or Mundorf are good bets.
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/ohm-vishay-mills-mra-12-p-5330
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
They pop up on Ebay every so often.