Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?

11112131517

Comments

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    I've got a line on a pair of RS-IIb's......looks like the mids are planars instead of cone on the RS-II's. Pictures look good (but don't they always?) They are a couple hours away from here. Seller is asking 1500....which for the RS-IIb's looks to be full retail, however, that seems to be in the ball park for ones that have sold elsewhere. So, will see how much wiggle room there may be.

    I'm intrigued by them to be sure......
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,598
    TroyD wrote: »
    I've got a line on a pair of RS-IIb's......looks like the mids are planars instead of cone on the RS-II's. Pictures look good (but don't they always?) They are a couple hours away from here. Seller is asking 1500....which for the RS-IIb's looks to be full retail, however, that seems to be in the ball park for ones that have sold elsewhere. So, will see how much wiggle room there may be.

    I'm intrigued by them to be sure......

    I almost bought a pair of IIb's in very very good condition locally to me last summer. But kept telling myself I already have too many speakers. Seller was asking $1300 but think they sold for $1100.

    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Those planar mids are called EMIM like the EMIT tweeter. Just to help with research you might do on them. I've heard very good things about them.
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    a grand is about my comfort level on these....so we'll see...
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 10,007
    Any of you guys want my pair of Kappa 8’s let me know, I’m going to put them up for sale soon.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    dromunds wrote: »
    Any of you guys want my pair of Kappa 8’s let me know, I’m going to put them up for sale soon.

    I'm sure someone will scoop them up. Those have servo controlled woofers don't they?
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    I got one out today so I could remove the drivers and crossover. I cleaned the pots then got thier range of resistance. Then took a center line measurement for both the tweeter and mid pots. Got 2.6 and 2.4 respectively. Now I can order the last resistors I need. I'll see what available for 2.1 to 2.8 or so. No need to be exact I don't think. Right??

    All the mids were great for ohms. All three ran 3.4 to 3.5.

    Easy to forget how dang heavy these speakers are. :#
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    TroyD wrote: »
    a grand is about my comfort level on these....so we'll see...

    Any progress Troy? @TroyD
  • Any plans to dynamat those or is it less necessary with cast frames vs stamped ones? I just dynamatted a set of Altec Lansing computer speakers. I feel like I just crossed over some sort of line.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    They are pretty stout frams for a 5.5 inch mid. I think I'll pass. But the woofers are a thin stamped frame. I will probably do them with dynomat.
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    The guy who has them popped positive for Covid 19.....so, we are on hold for the time being. I'm going to be gone for the first two weeks of October so it may be a minute before we get together on them....
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,557
    CH46E wrote: »
    I got one out today so I could remove the drivers and crossover. I cleaned the pots then got thier range of resistance. Then took a center line measurement for both the tweeter and mid pots. Got 2.6 and 2.4 respectively. Now I can order the last resistors I need. I'll see what available for 2.1 to 2.8 or so.

    If they are functioning properly, maybe run them a while to determine what setting best suits your ears and room. Then take a reading. I know as resistors go, especially on tweeters, a couple of tenths can be quite noticable. Also this way you can dial them in to match L/R.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Thanks. When I had them playing, I had them at the 50% mark and I took that as my measurement.
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,557
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited October 2020
    Anyone have experience with Humble Homemade Hifi and crossovers?

    I sat down today after getting a nice birch 1/4 plywood to map out where the parts will go. The deeper I get the more I feel I'm way out of my league.

    gaqs4fz658xo.jpg
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,386
    edited October 2020
    No experience except with breadboarding simple experimental circuits. Perhaps you could look at some of these links?:

    https://www.startpage.com/do/dsearch?query=how+to+wire+point+to+point+crossover&cat=web&pl=opensearch&language=english

    https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=83325.0
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,985
    CH46E wrote: »
    They are pretty stout frams for a 5.5 inch mid. I think I'll pass. But the woofers are a thin stamped frame. I will probably do them with dynomat.
    I’m sorry for being “late to the party” on this: consider pipe wrap for the magnets.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    They are pretty stout frams for a 5.5 inch mid. I think I'll pass. But the woofers are a thin stamped frame. I will probably do them with dynomat.
    I’m sorry for being “late to the party” on this: consider pipe wrap for the magnets.

    They are dipole or bipolar or octopole or something like that. Its greek to me. But they are open back and thats part of thier design as is the rear facing tweeter. I think if I put pipe wrap on the mids it would interfere.

    Like I said, the mids frames are very solid and stout. When I tap on them there is no ring or resonance at all.
  • classic carl
    classic carl Posts: 648
    edited November 2020
    I know this is an old thread that has been revived, so here goes. These are FS on another forum for information only. No affiliation. These are in Canton, Ohio.

    Infinity RS-II and RS-5b $600

    All are typical Infinity oak finish. All drivers work. Woofers have all been re-foamed.

    RS-II cabs are presentable and still have both original grills, front and back, and the foam that goes around the back of the mid-range drivers is still in place (this is usually missing). I have not touched or even looked at the crossovers.

    The RS-5b are also presentable and have the original grills and cloth. The crossovers are original and they used all film caps, so no need for a re-cap.

    Prefer to sell as a set. The RS-5b are basically spare woofers and tweeters for the RS-II.

    I have an additional pair of tweeters, a re-foamed woofer (clear-poly, bullet phase plug), and a woofer that needs re-foamed (a later grey-cone woofer, no phase plug) that will go with the package.


    2zhil4ymjbs5.jpg

    Main System:
    Proton AA-1150 ~ Yamaha C-4 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Sennheiser HD600 ~ Monitor Audio Silver RS8 & FB210 ~ Martin Logan Dynamo ~ Teac R-919X ~ Marantz CD5003 ~ Squeezebox Classic ~ Music Hall dac25.2 ~ Dual 1229/Acutex M312 III STR ~ Music Hall mmf-5.1/Goldring 1012GX ~ Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0

    Home Theater:
    Vizio V585-H11 ~ Yamaha RX-V800 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Marantz DV6001 ~ EPI M90 ~ Polk Audio RT35i ~ CS400i ~ (2) Polk Audio PSW450

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,931
    Maybe Danny Richie/GR Research would be willing to take on the crossover build project?
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Maybe Danny Richie/GR Research would be willing to take on the crossover build project?

    No, he said he would need the speakers there to fix other issues with a faulty crossover design. :/
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,931
    Oh, that's too bad. I would have thought he'd be willing to construct them to the original specifications, even if there were "flaws" from the factory.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Oh, that's too bad. I would have thought he'd be willing to construct them to the original specifications, even if there were "flaws" from the factory.

    Maybe ill reach back out and make sure he understands what I was looking for. I felt my email was pretty clear. But maybe we have a miss communication 🤔
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,931
    Yeah just let him know that you have all the components all ready to go as well.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Ok now..... I finally have EVERYTHING I need to start the build.

    Got these last parts I today. Changed the plan a few times.

    ulyfwc1sn6jy.jpg
    lfww1xtlcsyo.jpg
    xvf1f1onbtxk.jpg
    8kdocfd1pm7c.jpg
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Went and hooked up a buddies new system. Emotiva TA100 and KEF Q350s. That little Emo rated at 50 watts per @8ohms..... and the KEFs are 8 ohm and 87bd. Wow, that little combo jams man! I gave him some AQ RCA and he picked up some AQ Bedrock speaker cables with Nakamichi ends. Courtesy of @geppy1

    1pdquctsz51r.jpg
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,354
    Quit yer stallin' and get back to work on the Infinity's... We have waited long enough for you to get them hooked up and reviewed!
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,985
    edited January 2021
    CH46E wrote: »

    ulyfwc1sn6jy.jpg
    Where and how much for that Soldering station?
    and...

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/6z/i11syvrozytc.jpg

    Armaflex/pipe wrap is thinner, much cheaper and easier to work with. I’ve used it on driver frames and any surface bigger than 3” X 3” inside all my speakers. A little contact cement helps.

    Hope that helps and thanks for the soldering station info.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work