Just got these RTA 12B’s.

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,579
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    I will never have them all straight bro. But the peerless has no drop in replacment. 194, 198 or so on. @F1nut schooled me on this.


    Actually ill go check them now. I just sent 2 dead ones to @xschop so he could try to rebuild them. It would be great if a member here offered a repair service for them. They are only going to get harder to find.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,728
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    They're rebuildable.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,579
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    xschop wrote: »
    They're rebuildable.

    The two I sent you are????
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,579
    edited October 2020
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    Harv2002 wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    If I do have a 3rd you can have it for the cost of shipping.

    Thanks so much for the offer. Let me know.

    Was I thinking RD098? I still don’t have all these tweeters straight in my head.

    John

    Well, I put the meter on all 4 of mine. 1 is dead open, 1 shows .5 ohms (not good) and the other two are 7.7 ohms.

    Sorry man. The two good ones are going in mine tomorrow to replace the temporary sl1500 silver faced tweeters. (After a youtube next video threw a 16Khz test tone at them after a song I played at high volume blew my peerless and sent the dog running) The other two are no good. Ill probably send them to @xschop at not cost for him to tinker with and do as he pleases with them.
    uk53pukuwa8d.jpg

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,728
    edited October 2020
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    Yes, they can. I'll be sending them to another member to test and review in his 7s. Free of charge of course. Passing on the Karma

    The next set , I will modify the plates to recess all the mount screws. Should rid any diffraction near the domes.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,579
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    Well shoot, that's good news! Community!
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    CH46E wrote: »
    Well, I put the meter on all 4 of mine. 1 is dead open, 1 shows .5 ohms (not good) and the other two are 7.7 ohms.

    Sorry man. The two good ones are going in mine tomorrow to replace the temporary sl1500 silver faced tweeters.

    Thanks so much for checking. I may have to go the new repo route.

    John
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    xschop wrote: »
    They're rebuildable.

    Tell us more please!

    John
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,728
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    I just posted it in VSAT's SL2000 hack thread. He's ok with it.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
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    Welcome to Club Polk by the way. How 'bout the members here huh? I just checked my eBay saved search and wouldn't you know it but there is only one now where there had been lots, and the one available seems to have some dome wrinklage. I'm a stickler for that even though it may be inaudible. Anyway here it is:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Peerless-Tweeter-for-Polk-Audio-Monitor-5A-and-Others-Made-in-U-S-A/224151407557?hash=item3430770bc5:g:kMEAAOSwNIZfPxoB
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    Thanks. I actually found one late last night that’s local to me on eBay! I’ll pick it up later today.

    John
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
    edited October 2020
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    Got my new tweeter in and what a difference compared to the temp SL2000!
    I think I need another.........

    John
    mbfvszfqpmek.jpeg
    gg29rqhvhzez.jpeg
    afv33ioo8vj9.jpeg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,633
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    Those passive's look great! Many of that foam on front generation bubbled badly. Those appear to me as the next gen that had the harder plastic like front.
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    Don’t know why the pics came out sideways

    John
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
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    New to you one sounds better than the one that works that was in the speaker? How do the DCRs compare? Did you compare production #'s on them? Looks like this is starting to come together for you.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
    edited October 2020
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Looks like this is starting to come together for you.

    Im wondering if I should just buy a pair of the repo’s from Midwest Speaker? I mean, I’m going to go through the crossovers when I get the nerve to order parts. I’m a total newb here. I’ve built “kits” before (Megasquirt) but I feel out of my element.

    John
    8qnfnibiy29o.jpeg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,857
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    Im wondering if I should just buy a pair of the repo’s from Midwest Speaker?
    Yes
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
    edited October 2020
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    John do you not have an ohmmeter, either digital or old school? I believe you should be fine if the dates are reasonably close AND they have DCRs that are close AND (most importantly) they sound the same. It seems that older Peerless measured more in the range of 8.2 to 8.5 Ohms and later ones were more in the low 7's, and may or may not sound different (I think they do).
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    John do you not have an ohmmeter, either digital or old school?

    I do. Tough to measure as my 12b’s are all soldered. However the left (tweet came with what I bought) definitely doesn’t match the output of the “new” one I bought today locally on eBay. I even swapped the left and right assemblies and as expected, the stronger newer tweeter sound followed. I then swapped them back.
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    So I’m about to order these.

    https://midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4115-1-inch-dome-tweeter/

    The option is 4 or 8 Ohm. I’m guessing 8 as the new one I bought was like 7.6 or so. Is that correct?

    I’m going to buy a pair.

    John
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,857
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    You guessed correctly.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
    edited October 2020
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    Well my comment would be that you are going to have to desolder or cut the wires to the tweeter that you are questioning anyway, so you could get some 0.110" (7/64") male and female fastons and cut the tweeter wire about 1" away from the tab and crimp on a male to that wire and crimp on a female to the other wire that comes from your crossover. Then you can measure the DCR of the questionable tweeter and when your replacement comes in you will be able to just push the female faston onto it's tab and you're good to go. Chances are you'll get a funky DCR reading on that one, but the problem could be with the crossover and this way you'll be able to find out. I don't think you'd have very much trouble finding another Peerless because they come up frequently on eBay. If the problem is with the crossover or fuse block then you can avoid having to buy those other tweeters and you can use that $ towards the crossover parts. Just my 1c.

    PS: Desoldering at the Peerless tabs is very difficult to do without damaging the tab connection. Not really recommended.

    PPS: This is what I did on mine. You can use a commercial faston instead of what I did:

    p8drmjacsd2w.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Harv2002
    Harv2002 Posts: 56
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    I was able to just get it hot enough to remove.

    Buying all the Caps is daunting.

    John
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,728
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    Cardas Quad allows quick soldering to the rear tab area without heat transferring to the front leads.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,633
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    If it was me I would not solder the new tweeter on I'd get me some quick connects from AutoZone and crimp one on the wire and put the correct size on the Tweeter
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  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,110
    edited October 2020
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    Found my answer.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,579
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    A series are vertical. B and C are horizontal. A and B has peerless and the C has the silver coil dome. Sl????? I can never remember.
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,073
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    Yes. They continued using Peerless on the B models and modified the crossovers to reduce the negative effects of having side by side MWs.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,110
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    I found my post (3rd in this thread).
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2594444#Comment_2594444

    I'm just getting old and forgetful!!! :)
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
    edited October 2020
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    I guess you already successfully desoldered (?) , but if not this is what I'm talking about. You can get gold plated female ones from Autozone, PepBoys, or Advance but the males are not so easy to find: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Male-Spade-Terminal-2-8mm-7-64-22-18-AWG-Insulated-Non-Latching-E72EA/261487328155?hash=item3ce1dbfb9b:g:OPsAAOSw1mZd~QlB

    FYI these are the gold plated females but good luck finding them at car supply stores. Oreilly may have them:

    https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84547-16-14-Female-Disconnect/dp/B003GBF1MC

    https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84541-22-18-Female-Disconnect/dp/B003GBIMAK/ref=psdc_306723011_t1_B003GBF1MC

    OK Advance Auto Parts has them (in addition to Oreilly)

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-audio-disconnects-7-64-female-16-14-gauge-blue-10-pack-84547/6300011-p

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduct-tite-3354/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/universal-wire-connectors-25380/13d878ed189c/dorman-conduct-tite-slide-terminal-connectors/84547/4176374
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter