Stuck Screws

I'm retired. Go to at least 50 shows a year. I'm bored. Let's get out the deck that's been boxed in a closet for 20 years (bought new in 1975).5p5fupfemlen.jpg

Oiled it up. Plays and sounds great. However, the pinch roller needs to be pushed into place. Common problem with this deck. Found a detailed video for the fix. First step is to remove this bracket tzg215pdk8y2.jpg

There is some green stuff around the screws and these suckers ain't moving. Any tips (actone and heat from a soldering iron were no help).

Thanks

SDA 2BTL, VPI Prime, Soundsmith Zephyr MKIII, Rogue Ares Magnum, McCormack DNA 0.5 Gold, ARC LS-17se, Cambridge cxn v2, MIT AVT MA IC'S & SPEAKER CABLES

Comments

  • VR3VR3 Posts: 24,284
    The internet says green loctite and heat should do the trick
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • VR3 wrote: »
    The internet says green loctite and heat should do the trick

    What do you think would be the best way to apply the heat?. Maybe I didn't keep the soldering iron on long enough
    SDA 2BTL, VPI Prime, Soundsmith Zephyr MKIII, Rogue Ares Magnum, McCormack DNA 0.5 Gold, ARC LS-17se, Cambridge cxn v2, MIT AVT MA IC'S & SPEAKER CABLES

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,288
    jonicont wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    The internet says green loctite and heat should do the trick

    What do you think would be the best way to apply the heat?. Maybe I didn't keep the soldering iron on long enough

    or hot enough, what is your top temp?
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »

    or hot enough, what is your top temp?

    450c--842f

    SDA 2BTL, VPI Prime, Soundsmith Zephyr MKIII, Rogue Ares Magnum, McCormack DNA 0.5 Gold, ARC LS-17se, Cambridge cxn v2, MIT AVT MA IC'S & SPEAKER CABLES

  • jdjohnjdjohn Posts: 1,906
    I'd think a nice, wide chisel tip is what you want to use in order to get the best heat dissipation.
    "This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
    "Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
    Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon
  • When I was a ski technician I often had to carefully remove screws in expensive bindings that had been epoxied in place. I would hold a long-shafted screwdriver in the top of the frozen screw and apply heat to the lower part of the screwdriver shaft with a mini torch. This would allow the heat to conduct into the screw head in a somewhat controlled fashion. I don't know about doing this inside a tape deck... sounds risky. But it worked with skis when nothing else would.
    Polk Audio original RTA-12s w/ 12 inch Polk Stands; DHS Speaker Service upgraded crossovers w/ Sonicap/Mills; comb filtering mod (hyperdamped outer drivers/mirror imaged); tweeter diffraction mod; Cardas silver-rhodium binding posts; Neotech UPOCC internal wire; Sonic Barrier 3-layer; Dynamat Xtreme
    Ayre K-5xeMP preamplifier
    Cambridge Audio 840C CD player; Herbie's Audio Lab Super Black Hole CD Mat
    D-Sonic Custom Audio M3a-600M monoblock amplifiers
    NAD 4155 FM/AM tuner
    Silnote Audio Morpheus Reference II Series II balanced interconnects; Virtue Audio single-ended interconnects
    Furez 10/2 speaker cable & connectors, shotgunned
    VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables w/ Furutech connectors (G)
    Herbie's Audio Lab system isolation: Tenderfeet, Big Fat Dots, Grungebuster Dots, Little Fat Gliders
    Dedicated 20A/10 AWG circuit; Furutech GTX-D (G) outlet; Furutech eTP80; Shunyata Research Venom Defender; Synergistic Research Orange fuses
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 27,384
    You're gonna laugh.. but did you try a 1/4 inch hex drive impact screwdriver? I've been amazed at the power and grace with which the one I have (a Milwaukee) works. I never strip out screw heads anymore.

    xqc8wj9z0ggu.jpg

    That TEAC is a surpisingly nice deck. An old friend of ours gave me his, from his college days. It has the same "issue" but it sounds really, really good with no restoration. I loaned it to a hifi colleague who uses it regularly.


    16185175652_e79b692487_b.jpgDSC_9928 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 18,288
    edited September 2020
    Agree Doc I love mine. I wouldn't of thought about on this as it's kind of delicate item that teac.
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • jonicontjonicont Posts: 247
    Well thanks. My son in law brought over an impact driver and a heat gun with a focusing nozzle. But it may be best to just keep manually moving it
    SDA 2BTL, VPI Prime, Soundsmith Zephyr MKIII, Rogue Ares Magnum, McCormack DNA 0.5 Gold, ARC LS-17se, Cambridge cxn v2, MIT AVT MA IC'S & SPEAKER CABLES

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 27,384
    edited October 2020
    well, the other time-honored trick, with a good-fitting screwdriver, is to give the driver a few firm but careful taps (OK...whacks) with a small hammer to loosen things up.

    It might (????) be worth mentioning the difference between US "philips" head screws & driver bits vs. the JIS standard cross-point drivers and screw heads? I read on the internet (so it must be true!) that the path to enlightenment and fulfillment in working on Japanese electronics includes a set of JIS crosspoint screwdrivers. :)

    Nope, I don't have any. :)
    I am still pretty much a Neanderthal-grade tool user. Maybe even Austalopithecus-grade. :|


    https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/jis-japanese-industrial-standard

    e8o8mq5pgmyy.png

Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!