Need Help Troubleshooting Polk 7
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motorcityguy
Posts: 49
I have a pair of early Polk 7s: Peerless tweeters, single fuses on back. One of the speakers works flawlessly. But the other one exhibits an irregular break-up of high frequencies. Seems like it needs a certain combo of freq and volume to occur. It's not a drop out of sound, but more like a raspy sound or distortion in audio quality.
It's hard to replicate, but something is not right. Sometimes I find myself thinking it healed itself, only to find that it reappears. I've switched channels, tried diff amps, and different sources.
Just looking for some thoughts on where to look, or what it might be. I was first going to clean the connections at the binding posts, fuses, and drivers. Anything else to check/clean?
I always thought these Peerless tweeters either worked or they didn't. Is it possible it could be an internal problem with the tweeter?
Thanks, in advance, for any suggestions!
It's hard to replicate, but something is not right. Sometimes I find myself thinking it healed itself, only to find that it reappears. I've switched channels, tried diff amps, and different sources.
Just looking for some thoughts on where to look, or what it might be. I was first going to clean the connections at the binding posts, fuses, and drivers. Anything else to check/clean?
I always thought these Peerless tweeters either worked or they didn't. Is it possible it could be an internal problem with the tweeter?
Thanks, in advance, for any suggestions!
Comments
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It seems like you have done a pretty decent job of troubleshooting the issue with these here speakers. The only thing that comes to me is that perhaps your tweeter might be suffering from corrosion to the wires at the point directly behind the fuse.
Remove the crossover and inspect the wires at the point where they connect to the fuse holder. Ofter the corrosion is hidden by the wiring so you might have to remove a bit of the shielding.
Hopefully this helps, good luck. -
If it's this bad it'll be easy to spot. -
Clean the fuse and fuse holder.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If it's this bad it'll be easy to spot.
You would think so, but I was only able to find that issue by removing the fuse holder, which I did because I was eliminating the fuse. You cannot see that corrosion otherwise.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks, everyone. Sounds like a degraded connection is more likely than a bad tweeter. I'll take a look at all the locations mentioned.
Sounds like getting to the back of the fuse holder is a bit of a pain. I was not looking to permanently remove it at this time, so hopefully I can reinstall it. I believe it is held in with a rivet? -
Just clean the fuse and the two tabs of the fuse holder first. Do not drill out the rivet unless you plan on eliminating the fuse and replace the entire binding post plate.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Since removing the fuse holder seems to be a PITA, how about trying a swap of the tweeters between the two speakers first to see if the problem follows. If it does, you know the problem is in the tweeter. If not, it's much more likely to be in the fuse holder/wiring, etc.
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teekay0007 wrote: »Since removing the fuse holder seems to be a PITA, how about trying a swap of the tweeters between the two speakers first to see if the problem follows. If it does, you know the problem is in the tweeter. If not, it's much more likely to be in the fuse holder/wiring, etc.
Only one problem, early Polks were soldered to the drivers. -
teekay0007 wrote: »Since removing the fuse holder seems to be a PITA, how about trying a swap of the tweeters between the two speakers first to see if the problem follows. If it does, you know the problem is in the tweeter. If not, it's much more likely to be in the fuse holder/wiring, etc.
Only one problem, early Polks were soldered to the drivers.
Correct and you do not want to desolder the leads on the Peerless tweeters. Best to cut the lead wires 4 inches away from the tabs on the tweeters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Having just rebuilt a pair of early Monitor 10 crossovers with fuses, I can tell you cleaning the fuse holder, installing the correct value fuse, and applying DeoxIT to the contact surfaces is extremely important. I measured 3 ohms from the positive binding post, through the fuse holder and fuse, to the lead that solders to the circuit board. After a thorough cleaning, and installing the correct fuse, it dropped to .4 ohms. Anyone with fused Monitors or early SDAs should make this part of their preventative maintenance routine.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
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