Using REW to measure SDA SRS 1.2

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Comments

  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    Well @dubseven I'm happy your getting some good advice! I have a set of first gen SRS's and I'm jealous! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    Thank you all so much for the help!

    Does the rest of that measurement curve look "normal" for these speakers?
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 321
    edited November 12
    Yes,second from bottom is the brightest and will definitely sound muddy...,I'll bet You'll definitely be smiling even though the sl2000 are renowned to be a little bright at a certain frequency .
    Replacing the tweeters with the new rdo's makes a huge difference even to the bottom end!
    I have SDA SRS 's and the second from bottom is also brightest
  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    ptrooper wrote: »
    Yes,second from bottom is the brightest and will definitely sound muddy...,I'll bet You'll definitely be smiling even though the sl2000 are renowned to be a little bright at a certain frequency .
    Replacing the tweeters with the new rdo's makes a huge difference even to the bottom end!

    Its about $500 to replace them all..... On top of the cost to send the crossovers out. Debating how much I want to sink into these things.
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 321
    I have two sets of SRS's with full Abbot builds via VR3 mods and dont regret one cent!
    I'm going to be buried in them ,one for each of my children ,the miss's and me.
    My head will be sticking out though!kidding.
    If you can over time...."TL all the way"
    I won't say it again.....THEY ARE KEEPERS.
    Stock SRS's tweets usually shut down if the amp clips ie....over driven! yours might have this thingymajig( can't remember its name) bypassed as they do deteriorate the sound a little and apparently get worse the more they are activated to shut down and protect the tweets..

    A small under powered amplifier will do more damage than a good high powered amp!
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,149
    The 3rd tweeter from the top on the 1.2 is the main (full range) tweeter, so that would be the first one to cook.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 321
    Get them set up and start grinning.
  • delkaldelkal Posts: 613
    edited November 12
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That trace is starting to look more reasonable. Lets call it +/-5 dbs (I don't hear above 15,000hz anymore so the top end drop doesn't count for me). I know everyone strives for better (and you can) but there are a lot of speakers that won't even do that.

    I would take F1nuts advice that the 3rd tweeter from the top is the full range one. So if you have to replace any tweeters (and don't want to buy eight) get 2 RDO-194's and just replace them as a pair. RDO's are much better than the SL200s, are drop in replacements, and should flatten out the curve more. Of course 8 RDO-194s would sound better but I wouldn't put $500 to upgrade 8 tweeters just yet. I would replace just the two full range ones then think about replacing the caps.

    But from there the sky is the limit. Doing as full TL conversion with 8 new TL198s and a full recap/ conversion would sound awesome. But then comes the money part......

  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    So I had to look it up, as I'm not familiar with REW. It's freeware? Donations of course, but Whoa! :smile:
    nq4mr56gm7l0.png
    https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    delkal wrote: »
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That trace is starting to look more reasonable. Lets call it +/-5 dbs (I don't hear above 15,000hz anymore so the top end drop doesn't count for me). I know everyone strives for better (and you can) but there are a lot of speakers that won't even do that.

    I would take F1nuts advice that the 3rd tweeter from the top is the full range one. So if you have to replace any tweeters (and don't want to buy eight) get 2 RDO-194's and just replace them as a pair. RDO's are much better than the SL200s, are drop in replacements, and should flatten out the curve more. Of course 8 RDO-194s would sound better but I wouldn't put $500 to upgrade 8 tweeters just yet. I would replace just the two full range ones then think about replacing the caps.

    But from there the sky is the limit. Doing as full TL conversion with 8 new TL198s and a full recap/ conversion would sound awesome. But then comes the money part......

    So, after doing some more reading, I can't tell if they are SDA SRS or SDA SRS 1.2 - they have the 13 bolt crossover plates, but blade/Blade interconnects. Any input?5dnithp8nvb2.jpg
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 321
    edited November 13
    Looks like SDA SRS.
    1.2's came with pin blade interconnects ,SDASRS are blade blade!.
    Some early 1.2'S came with the above face plate from previous left over SDASRS stock!
    The only real way to tell is to check the drivers model numbers.SDA SRS have 8 x 6503's in each enclosure.

    Make sure your amp is common ground using these.

    They'r still keepers B)
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,551
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That looks relatively close to the curve we got when we had REW hooked up a few years ago.

    If you close mic (about an inch or so away) the woofers and the passive radiator you can get a good idea of how they will sound minus the room interactions.

    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Electro Voice EV-SIX
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,551
    verb wrote: »
    So I had to look it up, as I'm not familiar with REW. It's freeware? Donations of course, but Whoa! :smile:
    nq4mr56gm7l0.png
    https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

    It is an amazing tool for measuring speakers!

    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Electro Voice EV-SIX
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    ptrooper wrote: »
    Looks like SDA SRS.
    1.2's came with pin blade interconnects ,SDASRS are blade blade!.
    Some early 1.2'S came with the above face plate from previous left over SDASRS stock!
    The only real way to tell is to check the drivers model numbers.SDA SRS have 8 x 6503's in each enclosure.

    Make sure your amp is common ground using these.

    They'r still keepers B)

    Yep. SRS's like mine! :smile: Plenty of good technical information in the Vintage Speakers section here on CP.

    The only mod I made (thus far) was to swap out all the tweeters. Major improvement! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,938
    As others have stated, they are SDA SRS because of the blade/blade IC socket. Crossover plate is irrelevant. Polk never manufactured an SDA SRS speaker with a pin/blade IC, only the 1.2 and 1.2TL have the pin/blade IC.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,612
    One can never say never when it comes to Polk, as they were notorious for raiding leftover parts until they were used up. I do agree that it is highly unlikely that the speakers are 1.2’s. Only pulling a couple drivers will tell for sure.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,149
    There's an easy way to tell. Look at the sides of the end caps. If you see end grain they are SDA SRS. If you see face grain they are 1.2.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    F1nut wrote: »
    There's an easy way to tell. Look at the sides of the end caps. If you see end grain they are SDA SRS. If you see face grain they are 1.2.

    p2qy8lmrc158.jpg

  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    Here's mine. The sides show end grain, aka solid wood no veneer.
    nyhnloy7stpq.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • dubsevendubseven Posts: 16
    verb wrote: »
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:

    Red Bull hasn't kicked in yet.... long night! :sq00rordhh3cq.jpg
  • verbverb Posts: 8,295
    Looks like veneer to me!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,149
    That's face grain, which says 1.2, but the blade/blade says SRS. Another Polk mystery....lol
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,149
    dubseven wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:

    Red Bull hasn't kicked in yet.... long night! :sq00rordhh3cq.jpg

    Can you post a pic of the long wood strip on the side?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,612
    edited November 13
    Easiest thing would be to pull a driver from each column and see what the part numbers are. They are either very late SRS or very early 1.2’s. The drivers will tell all.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
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