Using REW to measure SDA SRS 1.2

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Comments

  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Well @dubseven I'm happy your getting some good advice! I have a set of first gen SRS's and I'm jealous! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • Thank you all so much for the help!

    Does the rest of that measurement curve look "normal" for these speakers?
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,410
    The second tweeter from the bottom is the one that produces the most sound in the 1.2TL, and should be the case with the 1.2 as well.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • ptrooper
    ptrooper Posts: 501
    edited November 2019
    Yes,second from bottom is the brightest and will definitely sound muddy...,I'll bet You'll definitely be smiling even though the sl2000 are renowned to be a little bright at a certain frequency .
    Replacing the tweeters with the new rdo's makes a huge difference even to the bottom end!
    I have SDA SRS 's and the second from bottom is also brightest
  • ptrooper wrote: »
    Yes,second from bottom is the brightest and will definitely sound muddy...,I'll bet You'll definitely be smiling even though the sl2000 are renowned to be a little bright at a certain frequency .
    Replacing the tweeters with the new rdo's makes a huge difference even to the bottom end!

    Its about $500 to replace them all..... On top of the cost to send the crossovers out. Debating how much I want to sink into these things.
  • ptrooper
    ptrooper Posts: 501
    I have two sets of SRS's with full Abbot builds via VR3 mods and dont regret one cent!
    I'm going to be buried in them ,one for each of my children ,the miss's and me.
    My head will be sticking out though!kidding.
    If you can over time...."TL all the way"
    I won't say it again.....THEY ARE KEEPERS.
    Stock SRS's tweets usually shut down if the amp clips ie....over driven! yours might have this thingymajig( can't remember its name) bypassed as they do deteriorate the sound a little and apparently get worse the more they are activated to shut down and protect the tweets..

    A small under powered amplifier will do more damage than a good high powered amp!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    The 3rd tweeter from the top on the 1.2 is the main (full range) tweeter, so that would be the first one to cook.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg
  • ptrooper
    ptrooper Posts: 501
    Get them set up and start grinning.
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    edited November 2019
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That trace is starting to look more reasonable. Lets call it +/-5 dbs (I don't hear above 15,000hz anymore so the top end drop doesn't count for me). I know everyone strives for better (and you can) but there are a lot of speakers that won't even do that.

    I would take F1nuts advice that the 3rd tweeter from the top is the full range one. So if you have to replace any tweeters (and don't want to buy eight) get 2 RDO-194's and just replace them as a pair. RDO's are much better than the SL200s, are drop in replacements, and should flatten out the curve more. Of course 8 RDO-194s would sound better but I wouldn't put $500 to upgrade 8 tweeters just yet. I would replace just the two full range ones then think about replacing the caps.

    But from there the sky is the limit. Doing as full TL conversion with 8 new TL198s and a full recap/ conversion would sound awesome. But then comes the money part......

  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    So I had to look it up, as I'm not familiar with REW. It's freeware? Donations of course, but Whoa! :smile:
    nq4mr56gm7l0.png
    https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • delkal wrote: »
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That trace is starting to look more reasonable. Lets call it +/-5 dbs (I don't hear above 15,000hz anymore so the top end drop doesn't count for me). I know everyone strives for better (and you can) but there are a lot of speakers that won't even do that.

    I would take F1nuts advice that the 3rd tweeter from the top is the full range one. So if you have to replace any tweeters (and don't want to buy eight) get 2 RDO-194's and just replace them as a pair. RDO's are much better than the SL200s, are drop in replacements, and should flatten out the curve more. Of course 8 RDO-194s would sound better but I wouldn't put $500 to upgrade 8 tweeters just yet. I would replace just the two full range ones then think about replacing the caps.

    But from there the sky is the limit. Doing as full TL conversion with 8 new TL198s and a full recap/ conversion would sound awesome. But then comes the money part......

    So, after doing some more reading, I can't tell if they are SDA SRS or SDA SRS 1.2 - they have the 13 bolt crossover plates, but blade/Blade interconnects. Any input?5dnithp8nvb2.jpg
  • ptrooper
    ptrooper Posts: 501
    edited November 2019
    Looks like SDA SRS.
    1.2's came with pin blade interconnects ,SDASRS are blade blade!.
    Some early 1.2'S came with the above face plate from previous left over SDASRS stock!
    The only real way to tell is to check the drivers model numbers.SDA SRS have 8 x 6503's in each enclosure.

    Make sure your amp is common ground using these.

    They'r still keepers B)
  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,629
    dubseven wrote: »
    Replaced the dead tweeters with SL2000s from some Monitor 10s I had for the garage.qh65qnrqlwvt.jpg

    That looks relatively close to the curve we got when we had REW hooked up a few years ago.

    If you close mic (about an inch or so away) the woofers and the passive radiator you can get a good idea of how they will sound minus the room interactions.

  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,629
    verb wrote: »
    So I had to look it up, as I'm not familiar with REW. It's freeware? Donations of course, but Whoa! :smile:
    nq4mr56gm7l0.png
    https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

    It is an amazing tool for measuring speakers!

  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    ptrooper wrote: »
    Looks like SDA SRS.
    1.2's came with pin blade interconnects ,SDASRS are blade blade!.
    Some early 1.2'S came with the above face plate from previous left over SDASRS stock!
    The only real way to tell is to check the drivers model numbers.SDA SRS have 8 x 6503's in each enclosure.

    Make sure your amp is common ground using these.

    They'r still keepers B)

    Yep. SRS's like mine! :smile: Plenty of good technical information in the Vintage Speakers section here on CP.

    The only mod I made (thus far) was to swap out all the tweeters. Major improvement! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • As others have stated, they are SDA SRS because of the blade/blade IC socket. Crossover plate is irrelevant. Polk never manufactured an SDA SRS speaker with a pin/blade IC, only the 1.2 and 1.2TL have the pin/blade IC.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,410
    One can never say never when it comes to Polk, as they were notorious for raiding leftover parts until they were used up. I do agree that it is highly unlikely that the speakers are 1.2’s. Only pulling a couple drivers will tell for sure.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    There's an easy way to tell. Look at the sides of the end caps. If you see end grain they are SDA SRS. If you see face grain they are 1.2.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    There's an easy way to tell. Look at the sides of the end caps. If you see end grain they are SDA SRS. If you see face grain they are 1.2.

    p2qy8lmrc158.jpg

  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Here's mine. The sides show end grain, aka solid wood no veneer.
    nyhnloy7stpq.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • verb wrote: »
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:

    Red Bull hasn't kicked in yet.... long night! :sq00rordhh3cq.jpg
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Looks like veneer to me!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    That's face grain, which says 1.2, but the blade/blade says SRS. Another Polk mystery....lol
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,542
    dubseven wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Hey Dub, need a pic of the side side, not the front side! That way you can tell if the End Caps are solid wood or veneer! :smile:

    Red Bull hasn't kicked in yet.... long night! :sq00rordhh3cq.jpg

    Can you post a pic of the long wood strip on the side?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,410
    edited November 2019
    Easiest thing would be to pull a driver from each column and see what the part numbers are. They are either very late SRS or very early 1.2’s. The drivers will tell all.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson