More power!

I had an electrician in a few weeks ago to do some work and we discussed installing a dedicated 20amp outlet for the home theater. He's recommending a 4 outlet 20amp line with the surge protecting inside the breaker box. I'm not up on all the options out there and figured i'd see what route y'all may have taken.

I have a new (8 months) Denon receiver capable of doing 7 channels plus 4 ceiling. Since the receiver can't handle loads down to 4ohm (only 8 and 6ohm), I had to put my vintage Carver m1.5t amp into the preamp outs to handle the LSi 25's. The receiver would cut off into protection mode when not even being pushed very hard. Then I have my SVS PC-Ultra added in there along with the TV, OPPO BR player, Apple TV...and you can see how I need something way more beefy. I'll probably put the Carver amp, Denon receiver and SVS sub into the 20amp outlet, then keep the TV and other items into the current outlet.

So, what y'all got supplying juice to your rigs?
No excuses!
«1

Comments

  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    I have 4 dedicated 20 amp outlets. One for sources, one for subs, and one will be for each amp, when I get the funds to buy the second one.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    edited October 2019
    @lightman1

    I have 3 Dedicated 20 amp circuits.

    1. APC H15 + source gear, AVR, and Plasma TV
    2. B&K 200.5
    3. 2 Crown XLS2000 and some other sub amps
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    John, for all that gear run 2 dedicated 20 amp 10 gauge lines. Don't let the electrician tell you 12 gauge is enough. Don't forget to upgrade the outlets.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,305
    F1nut wrote: »
    John, for all that gear run 2 dedicated 20 amp 10 gauge lines. Don't let the electrician tell you 12 gauge is enough. Don't forget to upgrade the outlets.

    I just wired for my 2ch rig. I ran a 10ga 20a line for the Mark Levinson, and a 12ga 20a line for the source and pre, and any other do-dads.

    yxhps2nd0mzl.jpeg
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,042
    3 20amp dedicated circuits here using 10 gauge spiral wound wire with the boxes wired very close to the breaker panel. Checking to see which 120 leg of your panel is the quietest is very important to. In my case the difference was substantial and noticeable when I switched to the quieter leg after unknowingly using the noisier one for many years
  • I have 2 20amp dedicated lines and do take the advice of at least hospital grade outlets. Was an amazing upgrade to both of my rigs.
    "if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
    *****************************
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,926
    My experience with electricians is that they'll do whatever you ask 'em -- as long as you're willing to pay for it.

  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    Look at all yer cute lil 20 amp circuits.

    Theater has 3 dedicated 30 amp circuits for the media gear, amplifiers and processing.
    Then 2 20 amp lines for seating and general use and then a 15 amp for lighting.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,521
    I would certainly go with 10 awg Romex. I also went with a heavy duty Levitron outlet. Anything plugged into it fits very tight.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Interesting thread, as I plan to run some dedicated lines in the basement.

    @Strong Bad what type of surge protectors are you planning to use? IIRC I read somewhere some designs may a bit noisy.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Look at all yer cute lil 20 amp circuits.

    Theater has 3 dedicated 30 amp circuits for the media gear, amplifiers and processing.
    Then 2 20 amp lines for seating and general use and then a 15 amp for lighting.

    Or, you could have 2 electric dryers and an electric cook top going... LOL

    Seriously, I always found it difficult to wrap solid 10awg around the screws in a typical
    outlet, even one designed for 20 amps. What kind of outlets do you use?
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Gee I wish I could get a 20a ran to my HT. I did have a couple quotes and it was way too much.

    I currently have all my gear on the stock15a circuit. Haven't blown the yet and I have cranked it up. When I changed my outlets my house is wired with 12awg wire.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    polrbehr wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Look at all yer cute lil 20 amp circuits.

    Theater has 3 dedicated 30 amp circuits for the media gear, amplifiers and processing.
    Then 2 20 amp lines for seating and general use and then a 15 amp for lighting.

    Or, you could have 2 electric dryers and an electric cook top going... LOL

    Seriously, I always found it difficult to wrap solid 10awg around the screws in a typical
    outlet, even one designed for 20 amps. What kind of outlets do you use?
    Back clamp are the way to go. NOT backstab which are a completely different and useless animal.
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    I have two 20 amp circuits for the two channel. One for the amp, which pulls 13 amps at idle and one for the rest of the gear.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    DaveHo wrote: »
    polrbehr wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Look at all yer cute lil 20 amp circuits.

    Theater has 3 dedicated 30 amp circuits for the media gear, amplifiers and processing.
    Then 2 20 amp lines for seating and general use and then a 15 amp for lighting.

    Or, you could have 2 electric dryers and an electric cook top going... LOL

    Seriously, I always found it difficult to wrap solid 10awg around the screws in a typical
    outlet, even one designed for 20 amps. What kind of outlets do you use?
    Back clamp are the way to go. NOT backstab which are a completely different and useless animal.

    I'd be very surprised if any of those are still sold. From my recollection many had arcing problems from the cheap brass strip that would lose tension from repeatedly hot cold cycles. I've removed plenty that had soot marks.
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    polrbehr wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Look at all yer cute lil 20 amp circuits.

    Theater has 3 dedicated 30 amp circuits for the media gear, amplifiers and processing.
    Then 2 20 amp lines for seating and general use and then a 15 amp for lighting.

    Or, you could have 2 electric dryers and an electric cook top going... LOL

    Seriously, I always found it difficult to wrap solid 10awg around the screws in a typical
    outlet, even one designed for 20 amps. What kind of outlets do you use?


    Using true 30a twist lock outlets to the pure sine wave UPSes/regenerators.
    Ran 8/2 copper to all 3. All of the 20a circuits are 10/2 copper and the 15a circuits are all 12/2 copper.

    I also have 2 20a circuits in my office for the 2 channel and a third 20a circuit for the remaining outlets in there for work computer and general use. I have a 15a general use UPS covered outlet for the network cabinet in my office.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I have two 20 amp circuits for the two channel. One for the amp, which pulls 13 amps at idle and one for the rest of the gear.

    13 amps at idle. What does it run on?!? Red matter?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    joecoulson wrote: »
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I have two 20 amp circuits for the two channel. One for the amp, which pulls 13 amps at idle and one for the rest of the gear.

    13 amps at idle. What does it run on?!? Red matter?

    parts of it can get 300°+. It's definitely A HE MAN AMP.
    Class A all the way!
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    Don’t short change your system’s power feed.

    Presently 3 dedicated 20As - I wish I ran 4. One feeds the APC H15 for the low power stuff. The other two feed the the amps and subs.

    Taking my cue from somebody on this forum: when I relocate my system, I will start w/a system dedicated breaker panel w/internal surge suppression. I anticipate 5 or 6* dedicated circuits to power additional upgrades: two more channels, several more amps, & two more subs.
    * final still pending
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • gp4jesus wrote: »
    Don’t short change your system’s power feed.

    Presently 3 dedicated 20As - I wish I ran 4. One feeds the APC H15 for the low power stuff. The other two feed the the amps and subs.

    Taking my cue from somebody on this forum: when I relocate my system, I will start w/a system dedicated breaker panel w/internal surge suppression. I anticipate 5 or 6* dedicated circuits to power additional upgrades: two more channels, several more amps, & two more subs.
    * final still pending

    Amen to don't short short change your rigs. One of the least expensive (in the scheme of things? Upgrades yet most dodged ..for whatever the excuses may be? I'm saying this simple upgrade gave both of my mediocre rigs a boost to where they both sound very nice. If you don't have a dedicated line to your gear you are simply half stepping and maybe a quick listen to Heatwave's "ain't no half steppin" will motivate ya😂😂🎩
    "if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
    *****************************
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,042
    Another thing is to keep those circuits on the same 120 leg. Checking to see which leg is quieter with one of these meters is also a good idea. In my case my 2 legs were vastly different and provided me with a nice upgrade when I switched to the quieter 120 leg.
    c7u39ey5tc6u.png
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Pretty cool little gadget. Interesting that there are a couple of companies out there putting their own brand name on it and almost charging double! :)
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Even more interesting. Alpha labs claim that their unit is made in the USA !?! :)
    zanh5utxpmmx.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,042
    edited November 2019
    Yes the Alpha Labs is the unit I own and it is made in Utah. FWIW that 1152 number shown is high (a lower number is better) and is audible (probably an led dimmer). Most of my lines normally run about half that
    But here's what dedicated lines on the quietest 120 leg coupled with a good pc can do to those numbers before they power my rig
    58falqzi5ifk.png
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Yes the Alpha Labs is the unit I own and it is made in Utah. FWIW that 1152 number shown is high (a lower number is better) and is audible (probably an led dimmer). Most of my lines normally run about half that
    But here's what dedicated lines on the quietest 120 leg coupled with a good pc can do to those numbers before they power my rig
    58falqzi5ifk.png

    Very nice! I was wondering about those knock-offs! I'll stick with made in the USA! :)
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,559
    Dave if you get one send it over when you're done so I can try it out on my power line and then send it back to you.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Dave if you get one send it over when you're done so I can try it out on my power line and then send it back to you.

    Will do! :)
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • Strong Bad
    Strong Bad Posts: 4,276
    I appreciate the comments and suggestions. I contacted the Electrician and said i'd like to go with TWO dedicated 20amp outlets. Thats going to be done the last Saturday of this month.

    Going to be interesting to see what improvements this makes to the home theater, especially with the SVS sub and the Carver m1.5t amp.

    "UNLIMITED POWER!!!!" - Darth Sideous
    No excuses!
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Just ordered one. Directly from Alpha Labs!
    47em6jw27mcm.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,305
    verb wrote: »
    Just ordered one. Directly from Alpha Labs!
    47em6jw27mcm.png

    Nice - perhaps you could do a sort of “demo” program, similar to the new speakers going around. And each member that gets it sends you $10 PP or so to offset the cost, and pays shipping to the next member:-)
    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn